Fake a Lake
- Thread starter lsilver
- Start date
Butch Davis
Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2006
- RO Number
- 20106
- Messages
- 201
If you drain the raw water side properly a/f is not required. If you are a belt and suspenders kind of guy and you want to have a/f on the raw side add head to the process.
I would hook up a transparent hose to the plunger, cut to proper length, get a funnel, take the hose, funnel, a/f and yourself up to the cockpit and pour a/f into the funnel until your system is full. Gravity should do the work.
If your entire system is raw water cooled you may be better off to add a/f directly to the engine from above. Do this after very completely draining the entire cooling system to include manifolds, the block, water pump, etc.
I would hook up a transparent hose to the plunger, cut to proper length, get a funnel, take the hose, funnel, a/f and yourself up to the cockpit and pour a/f into the funnel until your system is full. Gravity should do the work.
If your entire system is raw water cooled you may be better off to add a/f directly to the engine from above. Do this after very completely draining the entire cooling system to include manifolds, the block, water pump, etc.
Butch Davis
Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2006
- RO Number
- 20106
- Messages
- 201
If you drain the raw water side properly a/f is not required. If you are a belt and suspenders kind of guy and you want to have a/f on the raw side add head to the process.
I would hook up a transparent hose to the plunger, cut to proper length, get a funnel, take the hose, funnel, a/f and yourself up to the cockpit and pour a/f into the funnel until your system is full. Gravity should do the work.
If your entire system is raw water cooled you may be better off to add a/f directly to the engine from above. Do this after very completely draining the entire cooling system to include manifolds, the block, water pump, etc. Replace drain plugs except those needed for venting air as a/f is added and of course inlet for the a/f.
Refer to your owner's manual as some drain plugs are not easy to locate. Overlooking a drain plug can be a very expensive mistake.
I would hook up a transparent hose to the plunger, cut to proper length, get a funnel, take the hose, funnel, a/f and yourself up to the cockpit and pour a/f into the funnel until your system is full. Gravity should do the work.
If your entire system is raw water cooled you may be better off to add a/f directly to the engine from above. Do this after very completely draining the entire cooling system to include manifolds, the block, water pump, etc. Replace drain plugs except those needed for venting air as a/f is added and of course inlet for the a/f.
Refer to your owner's manual as some drain plugs are not easy to locate. Overlooking a drain plug can be a very expensive mistake.
- Joined
- May 25, 2003
- RO Number
- 11591
- Messages
- 1,986
"Fake a Lake"...I thought you were talking about Lake Lanier at first...
I use a fake a lake and find it to be a time saver. My boat is fresh water cooled, so I hook up the fake a lake to the intakes and run the engines and auxiliaries to flush the systems well. I mounted a spigot in a 5 gal bucket and ran as short a hose as possible to the fake a lake. You need a bit of head pressure on the fake a lake, so rest the bucket on your gunwale. Dump 5 gal of antifreeze in the bucket, turn on the flow and start the engine until the exhaust shows pink.
Brett
Brett
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2005
- RO Number
- 16045
- Messages
- 1,355
I just used one this weekend on my fresh water inboards and genny. I mounted a bilge pump in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket and attach the output hose of the pump to the hose adapter on the bowl. I fill the bucket with -100 (green) non-toxic antifreeze. I then start the engine and my helper on the ground starts the bilge pump using a battery (I put alligator clips on the wires). When the exhaust is flowing green shut off the engines and the pump. The person on the ground needs to check if there is a lot of spray coming out around the bowl, if so you need to increase the rpm’s so the engines suck harder. I usually rev mine to 1200 or so. This is the second year I have used this gizmo. If my engines had strainers I’d probably use one of those adapters right at the strainer.
Good luck
Niles
Good luck
Niles