Fishing wiring from dash to anchor locker

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shall0521

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Joined
Jul 23, 2019
RO Number
34121
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I have to replace the Floodlight on my 2000 Regal 2960. I got the new light, a Guest 22040A, the original light was a Guest 22040. I've taken the old floodlight off the boat. The wiring for it goes from the dashboard to the anchor locker and the light was mounted on the anchor locker door. I can't figure out how to snake the new wiring from the locker to the dash. I thought it would run above the cabin ceiling but it actually runs up the starboard side of the boat. It doesn't look like there is a conduit of any type for the wiring that runs from the dash to the bow of the boat.

Has anyone had to fish wiring from the anchor locker to the dash? If so how did you get it done?

Alternately I think I may be able to use the existing wiring and splice the snap connectors onto that cable. Both the 22040 and the 22040A are 7 wires. As long as I'm careful about the Power wire being in position 1 I should be able to match up wire color to position in the connectors and everything should work. As long as what color wire is in position 2 is the same on both ends I think I'd be fine.

Thoughts?
 
Why did the old one quit functioning?. if the old conductors are in good shape and of the same or larger gauge I think you would be O.K. to splice the old onto the ne ends, make a paper schematic of the colors differ. Stager the splices over many inches so yo don't end up with a 3" ball of splices. Good Luck ;)
 
Thanks Michael. I think the splice method is what I'll have to do. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks for the suggestion to stagger. I didn't think of that.
 
Is the problem with the light/motor, a wiring connection, a fuse, or the switch?
 
Certainly check for expected power at each light end of the cable , including confirming the ground return is still viable. If that doesn't test good, use a long jumper and meter or light to check continuity of each conductor.

If the cable really is bad, as a very long shot, does it have movement the whole way when pulled, providing the possibility of pulling the new through attached to the old?

Unfortunately, chances a great that without an intended chase it has been secured numerous times along the way or just to other wires along that route, or just have too many turns , so it can't be pulled through.

If necessary , you could still run a new cable through a relatively unobtrusive flexible plastic conduit painted to match surroundings, or a teak chase could be fabricated, or if you have "monkey fur" or nicer upholstered inner liner sides you could could make small slits every couple feet and use a stiff push-pull wire to get the cable from spot to spot all the way. Then use contact cement or other adhesive to close the slits and hide those cuts.

Hopefully you can just reuse the old cable as long as it has the required number of conductors of at least the min. gauge needed for the draw on that round trip circuit.
 
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