Leaky Hot and Cold water Lines

A

airbus

Member
exMember
Joined
Sep 7, 2007
RO Number
28518
Messages
270
My 1997 330 Sundancer has I think the 5/8" water lines with all quick disconnects.

Several of the quick disconnects are leaking in the area of the hot water heater. I push the line fully into the quick disconnect and it's OK for a while, then the pressure pushes it back out again.

Question is should I replace these, or try another type of connector such as those used in an RV?

Thanks.
 
Make sure when you push teh lines back in that the locking collar is pulled out so the line can't back out with the collar...common problem on boats that don't have the locking mechanism installed on the locking collar
 
quote:
Originally posted by RamSport47

Make sure when you push teh lines back in that the locking collar is pulled out so the line can't back out with the collar...common problem on boats that don't have the locking mechanism installed on the locking collar

Click to expand...


I have pushed the lines fully into the connector, and have been sure the collar was out and that the lock washer was in place.

The pressure just seems to push the line back out just enough so it starts leaking.

I can try to replace all the connectors, but was wondering if there is something better to convert it to.

Thanks for the reply.
 
I'm not familiar with your boat but it sounds like you have Pex plumbing. I have Pex on my boat and grew tired of all the leaky fittings. I found some brass Pex fittings with crimp on connectors. The fittings weren't expensive but the tool to crimp on the connectors was. I did find a good price on ebay for the tool. If you only have a couple fittings you could probably use screw type clamps. I'm pleased with the change so far. If you don't have Pex plumbing, well, nevermind.
 
cut back the lineswhere they enter the fittings by 1/4", replace the fittings
 
HOLY MOLEY !! Airbus, I own a 1998 Searay 330 SD. When it is in the water and the shore water is off or disconnected the boat is dry. When the water is connected and turned on at the dock the sump pump runs about every 15 minutes. Last year was my first season with this boat and now is the time to address this issue. When I looked "down there" I didn't see where the H2O was coming from. What is my best way of finding the leak(s) ?
 
I would open up as many access panels as possible and turn on the water and listen for the leaks. I would also use a flashlight and follow the lines were possible. Chances are the leaks are going to be where there are fittings. You could also induce some food coloring dye into the dockside water input that might making the leak(s) easier to find follow the stain!
 
I have a '99 and am looking at the same problem. I THINK Sea Ray used Sea Tech plumbing. If you are really adventurous and have tons of extra money, they have produced a manifold for their system. The hot and cold water connect from the source to a gang manifold and the pipes are labeled as to where the pipe will end up. The next fitting is at the termination point. Shy of pipe burst, there are only two possible leak points; origin and destination. The cost is obscene. There may be an equally efficient means of doing this from a local hardware store, however, I am not aware of one as I have not searched yet.

HTH.
 
Does anyone with a 1997 330 Sundancer know exactly what size the connectors and water lines are. I said 5/8" in my initial post, but that is incorrect.

The parts manual lists the quick connects as 15mm, but lists the tubing as 1/2" ID. It seemed strange to list Metric connectors and Standard tubing. I see from the Sea Tech website that both is available.

First I'm going to try to just replace the original equipment to see if that fixes it. All my leaks are in an area that has a sharp bend, so there is a side force on the connection which may be causing the problem. I'm going to add an additional elbow to hopefully relieve the pressure.

Nobody stocks them around here, so I need to order the right stuff.
 
15mm is .591" 5/8" is .625". This difference is .034 that makes them pretty much interchangeable. You can mix and match. If the OD is 5/8, the ID is 1/2" and the Pex fittings will work perfectly.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Shake n Bake

15mm is .591" 5/8" is .625". This difference is .034 that makes them pretty much interchangeable. You can mix and match. If the OD is 5/8, the ID is 1/2" and the Pex fittings will work perfectly.

Click to expand...


Thanks for the info. Today I ordered new 15mm Sea Tech connectors and some new tubing, so I'll try that first. I think some additional length on the lines will take some pressure off the connectors so they may not leak now. We'll see by next week.

I'll report back with my results here.
 
Airbus,

I know both Home depot and Lowes by me, carries the 1/2"PEX fittings. But like Shake and Bake said, the crimp on fittings are much better. I ended up going to a local plumbing supply house for the crimp on fittings. ( the quick connect fittings were about $8 each, and the crimp about $1.50, for the fittings and 2 bands. The problem with the crimp on fittings, is the crimper is about $100, I added/replaced about 15 fittings, so for me it was a no brainer. I bought the crimper. Now I have a lot of new friends at my dock!!!! I have one friend that has been replacing the same quick fitting for 3 years, he borrowed the crimpers, and he is done with the mess!

Scott
 
quote:
Originally posted by nph

Airbus,

I know both Home depot and Lowes by me, carries the 1/2"PEX fittings. But like Shake and Bake said, the crimp on fittings are much better. I ended up going to a local plumbing supply house for the crimp on fittings. ( the quick connect fittings were about $8 each, and the crimp about $1.50, for the fittings and 2 bands. The problem with the crimp on fittings, is the crimper is about $100, I added/replaced about 15 fittings, so for me it was a no brainer. I bought the crimper. Now I have a lot of new friends at my dock!!!! I have one friend that has been replacing the same quick fitting for 3 years, he borrowed the crimpers, and he is done with the mess!

Scott

Click to expand...


I would think you could rent the crimper somewhere.
 
quote:
Originally posted by airbus

Does anyone with a 1997 330 Sundancer know exactly what size the connectors and water lines are. I said 5/8" in my initial post, but that is incorrect.

The parts manual lists the quick connects as 15mm, but lists the tubing as 1/2" ID. It seemed strange to list Metric connectors and Standard tubing. I see from the Sea Tech website that both is available.

First I'm going to try to just replace the original equipment to see if that fixes it. All my leaks are in an area that has a sharp bend, so there is a side force on the connection which may be causing the problem. I'm going to add an additional elbow to hopefully relieve the pressure.

Nobody stocks them around here, so I need to order the right stuff.

Click to expand...


OK ... Here's a follow up. I did a little research and found out that I do indeed have 15mm lines and quick connectors.

West Marine offers the Sea Tech brand, so I ordered thru them along with some blue and red tubing.

Everything arrived yesterday, as scheduled. Today, I installed the new connectors, and noted the much better quality than the original installation.

I added an extra 90 degree connector to the lines from the water heater. The present installation had a 90 degree turn in the line, which put quite a bit of pressure on the connector.

Also note that the line slides into the quick connector much further that I had thought, so that might be a source of some problems. You think the line is in all the way, then suddenly it goes in another 1/2 inch.

In the long run, this may or may not solve my problem, but so far so good.

Also, note that the original 15mm connector (1997) was white, but now they are black. This was a little confusing.

Good luck
 
Many thanks for the follow up. I'm printing it out and will try to get on this project in May.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Bliss

Many thanks for the follow up. I'm printing it out and will try to get on this project in May.

Click to expand...


Good Luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top