Mobile Mechanic Recommendation for engine service

M

MisterBK

Member
exMember
Joined
Jul 6, 2008
RO Number
30391
Messages
116
Although it's been a slow boating season for me for a while (i.e. "none") due to prolonged unemployment (lots of time but no $$$), I want to keep my boat maintained. So ... I want to do 1) the periodic engine servicing (plugs, fuel filters, oil cooler anodes, heat exchanger anodes, raw water pump impeller, etc) and 2) bottom cleaning (been in the water for 2+ years with no activity in the past year).

Can y'all recommend a mechanic or diver for those 2 projects?

* Pittsburg Marina
* Carver 3607 (40' with added cockpit)
* Two Crusader 454's
* pretty good bilge/engine access

What is the opinion as to the need for bottom cleaning in this situation? Necessary at this time?

I know there's been discussions about mechanics plus the poll from earlier this year, but since this is for basic maintenance (rather than a "problem") and the economy may have taken its toll on some shops, I thought I'd get a fresh set of opinions.

As always thanks to this community.

Brian K.
 
Brian, I think the best mechanic is the man in the mirror and if you have time this could be a good time to learn. Those big V8s are easy to work on because the parts are full size. I hope you have been checking the oil dip stick and running the engines somewhat routinely even though you haven't taken it out, if not that would be my first recommendation. If the engines haven't been run under load, just monthly at idle when you look at the oil on the dip stick it should be clear with a tinge of light brown, if that is the case I wouldn't replace it. If the oil is gray and like whipped cream it is getting water in it which is serious maintenance unfortunately. Unless the plugs get fouled they probably don't need replacing, when they foul they don't fire and the engine misses, i.e. a rough irregular idle. The annodes that you mentioned aren't getting a lot of flow to eat at them if the boat isn't in use so that could be defered. I would wait on the fuel filter replacement until you hear and see the idle bog down on the RPM gage when you run the engines monthly unless you can see water in the fuel filters because they are the type that has a glass inspection bulb. If the engine temperature gage isn't indicating overheating when you run the engines monthly you can defer the raw water impeller. A fuel stabilizer is probably a good idea it works best when added to fresh fuel hopefully you had already added some. I am just offering these suggestions to be considerate until your finances improve and you can use your boat routinely again.
 
Not everyone who is a boater wants to, or has the time to be a mechanic. It's a good idea to leave it to an expert provided you find an expert you can trust.

I have an absolutely great experience with Tech Express, mobile repair service. The owner and mechanic I worked with is Jerome Rigsby. He services many of the boats at Berkeley Marina. I called the Berkeley Marina harbor master as a reference and they also gave him rave reviews.

Here was my situation. Before running into Tech Express I paid $3,000 to a boat yard (I wont say wich one) to replace bellows, shift cables and shifters at the helm. In doing so they found a part on the port engine, rubber hose that had been melted through due to overheating.

They replaced the hose but did not track down the heating issue.

So, I thought my boat was fixed and drove away. 2 weeks later, burning smell, leaking manifold..boat is not fixed and not drivable.

So I googled and found tech express on a Wednesday. This was last Wednesday and since I THOUGHT my boat was fixed I had made plans to take friends out on the boat on the weekend. Panicked I called tech express on a Wednesday. He got parts on a Thursday, replaced the manifold, fixed the shift cable on Friday and Saturday morning. I was up and running and moved the boat from Martinez to Oakland on that Saturday. Had an EXCELLENT boat trip on Sunday and all because he fixed the boat quickly.

He is not cheap however. $90.00/hr is what he charges. Here's the thing. After having a bad experience with a craigslist mechanic (I'll never do that again) I went to a boat yard. But if the boat yard really doesnt care too much about you and just wants to get paid they will take your money and send you on your way with a boat that they KNOW will overheat again and not tell you.
 
The mechanic has to know what they are doing but if that know how is not coupled with decency and good moral character than they are worthless in my view. Tech Express. I would recommend him to anyone who asks for a mechanic based on my experience. Google Tech Express Oakland and you will see his website.
quote:
Originally posted by Waynepj4

Not everyone who is a boater wants to, or has the time to be a mechanic. It's a good idea to leave it to an expert provided you find an expert you can trust.

I have an absolutely great experience with Tech Express, mobile repair service. The owner and mechanic I worked with is Jerome Rigsby. He services many of the boats at Berkeley Marina. I called the Berkeley Marina harbor master as a reference and they also gave him rave reviews.

Here was my situation. Before running into Tech Express I paid $3,000 to a boat yard (I wont say wich one) to replace bellows, shift cables and shifters at the helm. In doing so they found a part on the port engine, rubber hose that had been melted through due to overheating.

They replaced the hose but did not track down the heating issue.

So, I thought my boat was fixed and drove away. 2 weeks later, burning smell, leaking manifold..boat is not fixed and not drivable.

So I googled and found tech express on a Wednesday. This was last Wednesday and since I THOUGHT my boat was fixed I had made plans to take friends out on the boat on the weekend. Panicked I called tech express on a Wednesday. He got parts on a Thursday, replaced the manifold, fixed the shift cable on Friday and Saturday morning. I was up and running and moved the boat from Martinez to Oakland on that Saturday. Had an EXCELLENT boat trip on Sunday and all because he fixed the boat quickly.

He is not cheap however. $90.00/hr is what he charges. Here's the thing. After having a bad experience with a craigslist mechanic (I'll never do that again) I went to a boat yard. But if the boat yard really doesnt care too much about you and just wants to get paid they will take your money and send you on your way with a boat that they KNOW will overheat again and not tell you.

Click to expand...
 
Brian, I'm sorry to read of your difficulties. I've been there and had to finally give my boat to my son, who spent almost $5k getting it ready to go again after my letting thing go for too long.

If you can afford the fuel, take your boat for a good run up into the fresh water of the Delta for a few hours and maybe also run it down stream in 100% salt water for an hour. That will do a pretty good job of cleaning the bottom. Of course it won't remove any barnacles.....you need a diver for that. But those interfere with fuel consumption and if your boat is just sittig in her slip, not an issue while you are using her.

I like DeltaDawg's idea of using this time to learn how to work on your own boat and doing some of the things yourself. BoaterEd's Mechanic Forum would be a good place to start your "home study" and for advice if you run into any issues while on the boat. If you have a laptop and wifi, you could even get online help while at your boat. Sounds like a fun way to enjoy the boat and get her in ship shape while waiting for that next interview!

Best of luck on the job thing......what kind of work were you doing before your layoff?
 
Thanks for the comments/advice, folks. I generally do my own mechanic work on my autos & have done so for many years. It's the nuances of "marine" that I'm not instinctively comfortable with. Part of my exercise at this point was to get an idea of cost vs effort, but I'm inclined to go the "DIY & Learn" route.

In my pre-purchase survey 2 yrs ago, the surveyor recommended an overall service be done soon. I've put on less than 100 hours since then, but have the time so figure I'll do it. The main area of non-knowledge is the fresh water intake/circulation system, but I've been studying it. One thing that triggered this is that in my last "fire it up & run the engines a bit" session (which I try to do monthly) my starboard engine started a squeak/knock noise that sounds like it is in the area of the impeller. I did shut down immediately when I heard it & saw that there was not much water in the starboard exhaust.

So ... now is a great time to learn. Probably won't get to it for a couple of weeks, though. At least I know where to turn for help!

thanks again,
Brian K.

p.s. Liz, I am/was in the staffing & HR management world. When there isn't much of that going on, the work kind of dries up.
 
If you have a lot of marine growth its possible that the intake on the outdrive that sucks up the water that then goes into the exhaust manifold and risers are blocked.

quote:
Originally posted by MisterBK

Thanks for the comments/advice, folks. I generally do my own mechanic work on my autos & have done so for many years. It's the nuances of "marine" that I'm not instinctively comfortable with. Part of my exercise at this point was to get an idea of cost vs effort, but I'm inclined to go the "DIY & Learn" route.

In my pre-purchase survey 2 yrs ago, the surveyor recommended an overall service be done soon. I've put on less than 100 hours since then, but have the time so figure I'll do it. The main area of non-knowledge is the fresh water intake/circulation system, but I've been studying it. One thing that triggered this is that in my last "fire it up & run the engines a bit" session (which I try to do monthly) my starboard engine started a squeak/knock noise that sounds like it is in the area of the impeller. I did shut down immediately when I heard it & saw that there was not much water in the starboard exhaust.

So ... now is a great time to learn. Probably won't get to it for a couple of weeks, though. At least I know where to turn for help!

thanks again,
Brian K.

p.s. Liz, I am/was in the staffing & HR management world. When there isn't much of that going on, the work kind of dries up.

Click to expand...
 
Brian, If you have worked on automotive stuff you can do this! Take your time and ask questions and you'll likely end up with a better job that your're proud of. Also you'll have the satisfacion that you know that much more about your stuff! No one cares for your things like you. You can take the time for all the little fine detail stuff that others don't do!

Wayne, Brian's boat doesn't have outdrives, they are likely V-drives or direct with only the prop shafts going through the hull. Boats in the delta don't really have the problems that boats in the bay have due to the brakish water so about the only thing growing may be alge. Perhaps Dave can add into this since he moves his boat back and forth. I've heard that switching between the bay cleans the growth off that can't survive in the Delta and visa-versa. Seems like a good way to keep the bottom semi-clean.
 
Doing simple things like changing the plugs and putting fresh fuel in can make a big difference. When I first got my boat, the starboard engine was running really rough. I thought there were some major problems with it because there weren't that many hours on the engine. But before I got any mechanic involved I changed the plugs (which were gapped wrong) and topped off the tanks with fresh fuel. What a difference. Ran like new.

Same thing happened recently with my jet ski. Although it was only a couple years old, it started running rough at times and finally I couldn't even get it started. So I changed out the plugs and it ran like new.
 
If the boat is in the water I would be really worried about the annodes on your running gear and would either check them myself or get a diver to do it. You should be able to check them with just a mask and fins just make sure you know what anodes you should have before you go under. I am not familiar with your boat but on mine I have anodes on each shaft, trim tabs, thruster and a hull plate on the transom. I can see the hull plate and trim tab zincs without getting in the water. Significant damage can occur if these anodes are gone. You will probably need scuba equipment to change them so if they are needed a diver would be your best bet. I would also definitely check the engine anodes which should be easy to do just make sure you know how many you should have on your engines. I would do this ASAP. I wouldn't worry to much about cleaning the bottom if you aren't using it that much. You should be able to clean a good portion of it yourself without using scuba equipment.

If you can service engines in your cars you should be able to do the boat with no problem. I would check around to see if you can borrow a pump for the engine oil other than that it is pretty much the same. Also, if your engines are diesel make sure your are running them under a load vs. just firing them up every once in a while.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top