New Fridge - Suggestions

I

imspacemancraig

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May 24, 2009
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31301
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My buddy has a 1990 34' Montego. Fridge isn't keeping anything cold and the motor is quite loud in it. I think it is the original and needs to be replaced. So, any suggestions on where to find these at a reasonable price? Its a Norcold fridge/freezer combo and AC/DC.

How easy/hard are these to replace on your own? Or is it better to have done professionally?

Also, what kind of cost is he looking at? I thought above 1k for sure...
 
If he goes 120VAC only he can go to any store and get a nice dorm fridge for about $150. If he is going to run the gennie, there is no difference. I see a lot of folks going this way. I am close to being in the same boat (no pun!). When mine goes, it makes no sense to me to spend the extra $800-$1000 for the 12v option.

There is no reasonable priced for anything going in a boat! If he insists on a 12/120 Webasto or Tundra come to mind for quiet and low power consumption.
 
It might be noisy and not cooling well because it needs a top off on the freon refrigerant.
 
We thought of that too, but turns out there are a couple of types of freon and we can figure out which one is needed.
 
I bet the refrigerant is R-22 since it's a 1990 model. Squirt a little in it and see what happens. If it cools then your good for awhile, if it does nothing . . . . .well so what .
 
quote:
Originally posted by imspacemancraig

We thought of that too, but turns out there are a couple of types of freon and we can figure out which one is needed.

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The type does not matter. They mix regardless of what the "professional" people say. What you end up with is contaminated freon that the EPA says if one molecule is allowed to escape into the atmosphere, it will cause Mount Vesuvius to re-erupt.

Get some new stuff. Squirt it in. You might be surprised..........

Worst case, your out $10.

Things that make you go HMMMMMM.
 
I just replaced my full-sized No-cold fridge in my 380 Santego with a Frigidair refrigerator from Lowes. It's slightly smaller than the full-size Nocold but I used the additional space for storage. The normal apartment size fridges available at the big box stores were a few inches taller than the Nocolds and I did not have the space to squeeze them into the existing hole. It was $289 vs. over $1300 for a new Nocold when you factor in the deco panels. I can replace it 4 times and still be ahead.
 
Going the freon route might be the thing to try first, if it works, definitely cheaper... So to get at it, do you need to pull the fridge out? We pulled the panel off in the front and can see things, but working on it from this space is extremely tight.
 
You have to remove all the screws from the flange on the perimeter of the fridge-maybe 10 screws. It then will slide out easily. All the "good stuff" is at the bottom rear. there is an access panel you can remove by going into the bottom door on the wet bar behind the fridge, but it is much easier to just take out the screws and pull out.
 
OK, passed along all the info. He has a guy coming out to take a look this week and charge the freon. Going to give that a shot first. If it doesn't work, then he will have to decide on whether he wants an AC/DC unit or just AC. Arguments to be made both ways, but the cost is certainly the big factor.

Are there other reputable brands for AC/DC units besides Nocold?
 
Someone correct me if I'm wrong (like that never happens here!). I was under the impression a 12/120 fridge is a 12 VDC fridge with a built in transformer. If so, is that cheaper and more effecient than a 120VAC fridge and an inverter? Could that be another route?
 
quote:
Originally posted by imspacemancraig

OK, passed along all the info. He has a guy coming out to take a look this week and charge the freon. Going to give that a shot first. If it doesn't work, then he will have to decide on whether he wants an AC/DC unit or just AC. Arguments to be made both ways, but the cost is certainly the big factor.

Are there other reputable brands for AC/DC units besides Nocold?

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Those refrigerators that David mentions that are 120v, why not use an inverter with that? Those fridges draw very little power and don't have that start up surge.
 
On a hot day and opening and closing for a cold beverage, on battery, I would expect that to chew through a battery pretty hard...
 
quote:
Originally posted by imspacemancraig

On a hot day and opening and closing for a cold beverage, on battery, I would expect that to chew through a battery pretty hard...

Click to expand...


That's why God invented coolers! Even with my fridge on 120 via the gennie, the drinks go in a cooler full of ice. The only thing in the fridge is perishable foods and white wine for dinner. If it worries you that much, put a little dry ice in a box in the bottom. It'll stay cold.
 
We went thru this same process a couple of years ago.
I am an a/c tech and recharged the fridge, not easy but doable.
It just bought me some time.
Finally decided to install 120 volt fidge.
Biggest problem was to remove old frige thru hatch and install new unit.
Needed four guys and cost me a case of beer.
Love the results.
 
Just remember going with a 120 volt only fridge has a disadvantage, when your shore power goes out for a period of time, especially on a hot summer day. Time to throw everything out.
 
All good points. Basically it will come down to preference and the pros and cons. I guess if money isn't a question, probably best to go with the ac/dc unit.
 
I had a Novakool on my last boat and it was definitely energy efficient. It frosted quickly and didn't always keep ice cream frozen. On my new boat, Carver put a SubZero. It's 120v only, so not as energy efficient, but it works as well as my home fridge.

For me, I'll trade the efficiency for the performance. I love to cook and keep lots of ingredients on the boat and in the fridge/freezer and I hate to find them thawed and have to throw them out. Right now I have a dozen lobster tails, a couple beef tenderloins, 2 lobes of foie gras, venison, and more in the freezer. It allows me to make whatever I feel like on the water - but a thaw would be expensive!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Starry Night

Just remember going with a 120 volt only fridge has a disadvantage, when your shore power goes out for a period of time, especially on a hot summer day. Time to throw everything out.

Click to expand...


Interesting point I had not thought of.

Is their such a thing as an automatic cutover switch that would cause the fridge to run from the inverter should the power go at the dock?
 
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