Surface rust prevention

Rick D

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Hello all.

What should I use to prevent rust on top outside of the engine (top of intake manifold) while it sits during the winter.... WD40? The base of the carb is unpainted and has some surface rust starting... do I remove it for the winter and clean it up and paint or just coat in WD40?

How about the risers and exhaust elbows... clean up the light surface rust and paint?

Thanks,

--Rick
 
any spray on anti rust such as corrosion pro or boeshield
 
Add "Corrosion Block" to the list of products suggested by Bruce.
 
I'd clean and paint, just like you suggested.
 
After I winterize engines, I literally drench engine in WD-40. Be it right or be it wrong; been doing it for 20+ years. I then cover engines with plastic table cloths over winter. There's other things I do but that's the minimum.
 
I've been spraying everything down with WD 40 each year but CRC 6-56 was just suggested to me. It's said to remain clear and less messy so I'm probably going to give it a try this year.
 
The "messy" means that's it's still on. It's a necessary evil to have your engine covered with a slimmy film. If you saturate a paper towel and wipe it on, you may reduce the excess. It also makes it easier to reach the places under the pan. Frankly, it's the pan that rusts before anything else because it probably gets water touching it as your bilge water sloshes around.
 
Wd 40 is a great solvent but not protectant.
 
I put a coulpe of those aluminum foil roasting pans with about an inch or two of cat litter in them in the engine room and I never have any rust. The litter absorbs the moisture from the ER. Works for me.
 
quote:

Originally posted by KenK

I put a coulpe of those aluminum foil roasting pans with about an inch or two of cat litter in them in the engine room and I never have any rust. The litter absorbs the moisture from the ER. Works for me.





Ken, I also use kitty litter but not in the ER. If you mix in some calcium chloride in with the KL; you won't believe how much water the mixture removes from the area. Amazing difference.
 
dang

there is some real info here I mean to tell ya

PAINT IT!!!

I don't spray oil on anything. Oil is what I clean up. Paint it and then I keep the paint clean. If the paint starts to lift, touch it up.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ghost

dang

PAINT IT!!!

I don't spray oil on anything. Oil is what I clean up. Paint it and then I keep the paint clean. If the paint starts to lift, touch it up.






The problem with painting it is the amount of time involved cleaning and removing any surface rust, grease, oil, taping areas off, priming, etc. If they make a surface paint for metal that won't require all of this prep, I would.

--Rick
 
Rick, make life easy. Clean up the metal with a wire brush and if you can find it, the foaming simple green grill cleaner. Good enough. Spray it with a shaker can of whatever brand of engine paint you like. I just use white rustoleum now. I can get it anywhere.

To mask, get out a roll of tinfoil and go to town. This really does not need to be difficult.

The reason we do this (and why I like white paint the best on engines), is not because we want a trophy. Well, some of you might I suppose. It's because if you have a nice painted engine, you will notice in 10 seconds if anything is leaking or amiss.

I guarantee you that if your engine is far gone enough that the prep is a limiting factor, then there is no way in the world that you can spot a problem developing in a glance. It's up to you, but I really think its worth the effort and really is not tough to do.
 
I'm sold. I'll give paint a shot and see how it turns out.
Thanks,
--Rick
 
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