The "Right" fittings?

[mchad]

I just got my custom holding tank. The tank has 3 threaded ports on the top (along with a 6" inspection port). I need to get fittings for the ports. One, the inbound (coming from the head) is simply a 90 deg elbow. The other, I have to construct a dip tube for the pump out, and the third is just a vent. I already have a 1.5" male threaded to hose barb elbow for the inbound side, and a 1/2" to 5/8" barb for the vent (both are marelon). On the dip tube, I need to get a piece of PVC pipe, glue it into a pvc elbow for the pumpout side. My questions are:

Are hose barbs a good interface for the hard sanitation hose? After looking at it, I am wondering if a the hose will clamp down enough on the barb for an effective seal, or am I better fabricating a fitting using smooth 1.5" pipe as the clamp interface?

And: Am I better tossing the marelon fittings in favor of schedule 80 pvc, or is that just overkill and unnecessary?

Thanks

 

[pdecat]

The white sanitation hose doesent compress well onto barbs. I add a little 5200.

 

[GSENT]

If you are using sealand odorsafe hose, use Sealand fittings. They are non barbed, and fit perfectly.

 

[Capt. Bill1]

quote:

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Originally posted by pdecat

The white sanitation hose doesent compress well onto barbs. I add a little 5200.

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This is probably one of the few times Bruce and I have disagreed.

I haven't had or seen a problem with sani house compressing well onto hose barbs. It might be due to the fact that I heat the hose ends first in most cases before I put the hose on. And that makes it more pliable.

 

[mchad]

I did find the smooth barbs on boatfix, so I ordered a couple anyway. Do you apply any sealant to the barb? Or just put it on as-is (with perhaps some heat)?

 

[pdecat]

My approch with sewer lines and others is to always uses 5200. I leave the hose a little long so that if I must take it apart I just cut off the hose and use a new fitting. Always faster and easier than trying to take apart stuff.