George Van Parys

Mar 1, 2000
RO Number

(NOTICE: Maintenance-free batteries are not recommended for use with these systems!)

NOTE: DVA stands for Digital Voltage Adaptor, I.E. Peak Reading Voltmeter

1. Check the flywheel for cracked and loose magnets. Be sure the magnets are secure.

2. Disconnect the kill wire(s) from the pack and connect a DC voltmeter between the kill wires and engine ground. Turn the ignition switch on and off several times. If, at any time, you see DC voltage appearing on the meter, there is a problem in the harness or ignition switch. NOTE: At no time should you see battery voltage on any kill wires.

3. Visually inspect stator for cracks or leaks: If found, replace the stator. Burnt marks or discolored areas on the battery charge windings indicate a possible problem with the rectifier.

4. Unit will not fire: Disconnect kill wire AT THE PACK. Check for broken or bare wires on the unit, stator and timer base. Measure DVA voltage of the stator with everything connected. Readings should be approximately 150 volts or more. On standard CD types, check DVA voltage on the timer base white wire, Voltage should be approximately 150 volts or more (Quick start units usually have the white wire tied to ground inside the pack). If reading is good on the stator but low on the white wire, the timer base is usually bad. Disconnect the rectifier. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.

5. '88-'96 V6 and V8 Quick start timer bases: Disconnect the timer base. Using the Fluke meter set to ohms scale, and one of the piercing probes, connect the red lead from the meter to the white wire in the Amphenol connector from the timer base. Use the black lead from the meter and check to all of the pastel colored wires in both connectors from the timer base. All of the readings should be fairly even, normally between 1 and 2 meg ohms measured with the Fluke meter. With the red lead still connected to the white wire, connect the black meter lead to the black/white wire in the opposite connector from the timer base. You should read approximately 220 ohms (440 ohms on the GT 150/175). It one of more cylinders are out of line, (i.e. all the rest are reading 1.2 - 1.8 meg ohms and one reads 0.898 or 2.2 meg ohms) the timer base is usually bad.

6. '92-96 Looper units with optical triggers: DVA check the stator, each set of brown wires should read at least 150V (950-1050 ohms) and 12 volts between the two orange wires from the power coil (50 ohms). Note these units require special spark plugs and the GRAY spark plug wires, If the pack only fires when you remove the plug connector containing the kill wires, use a jumper wire to connect the kill wires in the pack. If the pack still fires, there is a problem in the harness, safety circuit or ignition switch. A no fire situation with the jumper in place indicates a bad pack.

7. '89.'95 4 cylinder Looper units: If the engine misses on one cylinder with the white/black temperature wire hooked up and does not with it unhooked, this is usually the timer base causing the problem.

8. For PP4 units: Cylinder 1 & 3 or 2 & 4 will not fire: Check timer base resistance between 1-3 and 2-4. Reading should read 10-20 ohms on each. Check air gap on sensor coils. If re-gaping is needed use Rapair R97-2 Sensor Gap Gauge.

9. Engine will not kill: Remove the black/yellow kill wire from the rubber connector to see if the pin is broken. Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the black/yellow wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the engine, the kill circuit in the harness or boat is bad, or the ignition switch is bad.

10. Coils fire with spark plugs out but not in: Check for dragging starter or low battery causing slow cranking speed DVA test stator and timer base

11. Engine runs rough on one bank (4 & 6 cylinder engines with CD ignitions): DVA check stator voltage to both sides. The readings should be fairly equal. If it exceeds 400 volts, replace the pack on that bank. If unequal, swap banks with stator leads and see if the problem moves with the stator leads. If it does, replace the stator, Disconnect one of the black/yellow kill wires, AT THE PACK, If the problem is eliminated, replace the pack that was running smooth as it probably has a bad blocking diode.

12. Intermittent firing on one or more cylinders: Low voltage from the stator or a bad timer base. Disconnect rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the rectifier.

13) Check for broken wires and terminals: Especially check inside the rubber Amphenol plug-in connectors. We recommend that you remove the pins from the connectors and visually inspect them.