1978 Carver Mariner
- Thread starter glenncal1
- Start date
marykhubby
Member
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2007
- RO Number
- 25522
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- 584
PETE! this one is right up your alley... Pete to Aisle 1 to help a customer please! Pete, Aisle 1.
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2002
- RO Number
- 7269
- Messages
- 802
If it's the 33 Mariner, the teak window frames tend to leak and allow water into the ply core-check the areas surrounding the side windows for rot. Otherwise, roomy comfortable boat.
"PETE! this one is right up your alley... Pete to Aisle 1 to help a customer please! Pete, Aisle 1."
LOL! Sorry I've been out of commission for a few days and didn't get to respond. Glenn, how much time do you have on your hands? I can write a very long post but if you're reading it at work you might get fired
...
I am a two time Mariner 28 owner, the first a 1975 model 2895 (wood superstructure, teak window frames, fiberglass hull), the second a 1980 model 2896 (fiberglass superstructure, aluminum window frames, fiberglass hull). Yours fits right in between, with the fiberglass hull and superstructure and teakwood window frames...
For looks, the old fashioned teak frames win hands down, IMHO. Also for utility on the bridge, because I love those two big opening windows and miss them dearly on my current boat. The downside, though, is that Carver never quite figured out how to get those damn things to stop leaking inside the cabin. Be sure to check under that port side settee - fold it up and look around, because my guess is you've got mushrooms growing in there right about now. I hated that on my old boat, and on my current one I love the fact that I have no leaks there and can fully utilize that extra berth under there - its my 8 year old son's "stateroom" now!!!
Another place where the old windows used to leak is on the corners of the front cabin windows. Any prolonged leaking there will stain your rugs on both sides of the hull next to the V berth...
The problem was one of design - the cabin angles INWARDS, and so do the window channels. Even with the fiberglass superstructure those old style window frames basically relied on a long piece of mahogany running the length of the cabin and a heavy dose of silicone sealer to keep the water out. Even the damn window channel drains were UPHILL from the place where the water tended to puddle. Our 2895 was bought new in '75, and by the end of '76 was leaking already...
I don't say this to scare you away from the boat, because if its cheap enough, and you're an enthusiast, you can really make that boat into something special. It just has better lines than my stubbier, stodgier model does. But those damn windows will be a bother for as long as you own the boat, so be prepared...
Regarding the "fiberglass" superstructure, Carver in those days basically used fiberglass the way Chris Craft used to use vinyl on its cabin tops - basically as a waterproof covering over a marine plywood structure. Even on my 1980 they didn't bother to seal the edges where the drip moldings are (that run over the cabin windows on each side) so of course water got in there and has pulverized some of that wood over time. My drip moldings are all coming loose and even 2" screws won't hold anymore in some places. Since I can't tip the boat upside down and flow Git Rot in there its going to take an interesting fix to straighten it out and I haven't come up with a good plan yet. Perhaps some other RO has had an idea there???
Also, on the lower part of the cabin house behind the two hanging lockers (on my boat the "Carver" emblems are there but on the '78 they were located up on the bridge sides), the same thing happened - water got in and the fiberglass outer shell lost its grip on the wood. So the damn things stick out a good inch or so from where they are supposed to be. I'm thinking of jamming a ton of 4200 or 5200 in there and bracing the thing together with a 2x4 and some clamps until it cures. That oughta work for awhile...
Speaking of all that teak, BTW - it can be Hell to take care of, but these days Cetol Marine by Sikkens Corp (available through BoatFix or your local retailer) is a real blessing to the teakwood boat owner. It makes it so much more enjoyable to maintain all that wood because it lasts soooo much longer. I used to use the orangy original color, but they now have a more natural color that I'm going to try this year...
Now, to the HULL. I want to SCARE YOU A BIT HERE so you check this out CAREFULLY. These Carver boats, model numbers that end in "5" or "6", have BALSA CORED HULL BOTTOMS. BE SURE to get this checked, and use your own intuition down there. If any of that balsa is seriously damaged that boat belongs on a BURN PILE, not in a marina, unless you are incredibly gifted at fiberglass work or are quite wealthy. Now I've owned two boats and neither of them had any problems down there, but if the prior owner(s) were overzealous and screwed around installing lots of goodies in the bilge areas without sealant then water might have gotten into places it shouldn't, and Carver really didn't do a good job back then in insuring that the wood would last if compromised in this way.
If there are problems with the STRINGERS its different, because you can fix those (I did) without harming the balsa coring in the hull, although its still a pain in the errr... "dupa" to do all that work (in my case I had to lift an engine out...
BTW if you want to see what the potential for water damage to the balsa hull coring is like, just pick up one of the engine hatches and look at the bottom. I GUARANTEE YOU that the balsa wood coring also used in that hatch has turned into soup a long time ago (I've never seen a Carver of that vintage where it DIDN'T HAPPEN!) and the damn thing is sagging. No big deal if its just an engine hatch - you can take the thing out, flip it upside down, use one of those DREMEL attachments to cut the gray colored bottom layer out and expose the coring, replace the coring either with more balsa or a piece of PTP plywood, and glue back together. But imagine if that is your hull instead!!!
Other systems to look for - the engines may be Mercruisers, Pleasurecrafts or Crusaders, or a newer repower. They may well be Ford 302 or 351s if they're twins, or a single big block if its a single inboard or I/O. I don't believe Carver offered a genset or air conditioning in '78. Inside, you may have a gas or electric range, or alcohol/electric stove. If its a gas stove be sure to check out the fuel system for it - there's a big box hanging over the transom that contains the tank. The head may well be a Mansfield (now Dometic/SeaLand) Traveler 911-M28 head which has been a great self contained system for years. The first thing I would do, if its obviously one of the older units, would be to remove it and replace with a brand new model still available from SeaLand, which is of a much sturdier plastic tank, porcelain bowl construction and has about .5 gal greater capacity than the old system. You might consider an auxiliary holding tank system too, like I installed on my boat...
Carpets, curtains and fabrics are likely to be gross if they're original, but that's the fun of upkeeping an old boat...
IMHO the Carver 28 was in its day one of the best ever for carrying families for both short trips and extended vacations on the water. Even today it still holds its own against still-produced boats like the Bayliner 28 Classic and other more-recently-extinct models. My 28s have been up the NY State Canals, Lake Champlain, the Hudson, the Jersey Shore, the LI Sound, and 20 miles off Montauk Pt, LI. They've carried rafts and floats slung to the bimini top, bicycles in the cockpit, we've cooked in the galley for yacht club events, and even strung Christmas decorations all over the boat every year for the Labor Day bash in the Rondout Creek. One thing about Carvers - they are USEFUL and they get USED! Just make sure you're spending your money on a worthwhile example...
Hope this helps...
LOL! Sorry I've been out of commission for a few days and didn't get to respond. Glenn, how much time do you have on your hands? I can write a very long post but if you're reading it at work you might get fired
...I am a two time Mariner 28 owner, the first a 1975 model 2895 (wood superstructure, teak window frames, fiberglass hull), the second a 1980 model 2896 (fiberglass superstructure, aluminum window frames, fiberglass hull). Yours fits right in between, with the fiberglass hull and superstructure and teakwood window frames...
For looks, the old fashioned teak frames win hands down, IMHO. Also for utility on the bridge, because I love those two big opening windows and miss them dearly on my current boat. The downside, though, is that Carver never quite figured out how to get those damn things to stop leaking inside the cabin. Be sure to check under that port side settee - fold it up and look around, because my guess is you've got mushrooms growing in there right about now. I hated that on my old boat, and on my current one I love the fact that I have no leaks there and can fully utilize that extra berth under there - its my 8 year old son's "stateroom" now!!!
Another place where the old windows used to leak is on the corners of the front cabin windows. Any prolonged leaking there will stain your rugs on both sides of the hull next to the V berth...
The problem was one of design - the cabin angles INWARDS, and so do the window channels. Even with the fiberglass superstructure those old style window frames basically relied on a long piece of mahogany running the length of the cabin and a heavy dose of silicone sealer to keep the water out. Even the damn window channel drains were UPHILL from the place where the water tended to puddle. Our 2895 was bought new in '75, and by the end of '76 was leaking already...
I don't say this to scare you away from the boat, because if its cheap enough, and you're an enthusiast, you can really make that boat into something special. It just has better lines than my stubbier, stodgier model does. But those damn windows will be a bother for as long as you own the boat, so be prepared...
Regarding the "fiberglass" superstructure, Carver in those days basically used fiberglass the way Chris Craft used to use vinyl on its cabin tops - basically as a waterproof covering over a marine plywood structure. Even on my 1980 they didn't bother to seal the edges where the drip moldings are (that run over the cabin windows on each side) so of course water got in there and has pulverized some of that wood over time. My drip moldings are all coming loose and even 2" screws won't hold anymore in some places. Since I can't tip the boat upside down and flow Git Rot in there its going to take an interesting fix to straighten it out and I haven't come up with a good plan yet. Perhaps some other RO has had an idea there???
Also, on the lower part of the cabin house behind the two hanging lockers (on my boat the "Carver" emblems are there but on the '78 they were located up on the bridge sides), the same thing happened - water got in and the fiberglass outer shell lost its grip on the wood. So the damn things stick out a good inch or so from where they are supposed to be. I'm thinking of jamming a ton of 4200 or 5200 in there and bracing the thing together with a 2x4 and some clamps until it cures. That oughta work for awhile...
Speaking of all that teak, BTW - it can be Hell to take care of, but these days Cetol Marine by Sikkens Corp (available through BoatFix or your local retailer) is a real blessing to the teakwood boat owner. It makes it so much more enjoyable to maintain all that wood because it lasts soooo much longer. I used to use the orangy original color, but they now have a more natural color that I'm going to try this year...
Now, to the HULL. I want to SCARE YOU A BIT HERE so you check this out CAREFULLY. These Carver boats, model numbers that end in "5" or "6", have BALSA CORED HULL BOTTOMS. BE SURE to get this checked, and use your own intuition down there. If any of that balsa is seriously damaged that boat belongs on a BURN PILE, not in a marina, unless you are incredibly gifted at fiberglass work or are quite wealthy. Now I've owned two boats and neither of them had any problems down there, but if the prior owner(s) were overzealous and screwed around installing lots of goodies in the bilge areas without sealant then water might have gotten into places it shouldn't, and Carver really didn't do a good job back then in insuring that the wood would last if compromised in this way.
If there are problems with the STRINGERS its different, because you can fix those (I did) without harming the balsa coring in the hull, although its still a pain in the errr... "dupa" to do all that work (in my case I had to lift an engine out...
BTW if you want to see what the potential for water damage to the balsa hull coring is like, just pick up one of the engine hatches and look at the bottom. I GUARANTEE YOU that the balsa wood coring also used in that hatch has turned into soup a long time ago (I've never seen a Carver of that vintage where it DIDN'T HAPPEN!) and the damn thing is sagging. No big deal if its just an engine hatch - you can take the thing out, flip it upside down, use one of those DREMEL attachments to cut the gray colored bottom layer out and expose the coring, replace the coring either with more balsa or a piece of PTP plywood, and glue back together. But imagine if that is your hull instead!!!
Other systems to look for - the engines may be Mercruisers, Pleasurecrafts or Crusaders, or a newer repower. They may well be Ford 302 or 351s if they're twins, or a single big block if its a single inboard or I/O. I don't believe Carver offered a genset or air conditioning in '78. Inside, you may have a gas or electric range, or alcohol/electric stove. If its a gas stove be sure to check out the fuel system for it - there's a big box hanging over the transom that contains the tank. The head may well be a Mansfield (now Dometic/SeaLand) Traveler 911-M28 head which has been a great self contained system for years. The first thing I would do, if its obviously one of the older units, would be to remove it and replace with a brand new model still available from SeaLand, which is of a much sturdier plastic tank, porcelain bowl construction and has about .5 gal greater capacity than the old system. You might consider an auxiliary holding tank system too, like I installed on my boat...
Carpets, curtains and fabrics are likely to be gross if they're original, but that's the fun of upkeeping an old boat...
IMHO the Carver 28 was in its day one of the best ever for carrying families for both short trips and extended vacations on the water. Even today it still holds its own against still-produced boats like the Bayliner 28 Classic and other more-recently-extinct models. My 28s have been up the NY State Canals, Lake Champlain, the Hudson, the Jersey Shore, the LI Sound, and 20 miles off Montauk Pt, LI. They've carried rafts and floats slung to the bimini top, bicycles in the cockpit, we've cooked in the galley for yacht club events, and even strung Christmas decorations all over the boat every year for the Labor Day bash in the Rondout Creek. One thing about Carvers - they are USEFUL and they get USED! Just make sure you're spending your money on a worthwhile example...
Hope this helps...
- Joined
- Aug 16, 2007
- RO Number
- 28240
- Messages
- 1,772
WOW Pete...if that doesn't help him...nothing will
So Pete, with having to do so much work on your boat when do you find the time to actually use it?
Seriously thou, your post make me wonder if spending so little on an older boat makes any sense at all. After all the time and dollars you have to pour into it are you really ahead of the game say had you bought a model 10 or 15 years newer without so many weak points? (This is a general question about older boats NOT an attack on any particular brand!)
Seriously thou, your post make me wonder if spending so little on an older boat makes any sense at all. After all the time and dollars you have to pour into it are you really ahead of the game say had you bought a model 10 or 15 years newer without so many weak points? (This is a general question about older boats NOT an attack on any particular brand!)
Pete-thanks for the feedback, boat has been out of the water for a couple of years and has twin PCM Fords. I have at this point in time only seen photos and the boat looks to be in good shape. I don't see much evidence of water intrusion on the photos but they of course don't show everything. Haven't talked to the owner yet just the broker. here is a link to the boat:
http://tinyurl.com/2h2p49
http://tinyurl.com/2h2p49
"So Pete, with having to do so much work on your boat when do you find the time to actually use it?"
LOL! John, you always crack me up!!! But you're on to me - all I ever seem to do is work on boats, never mind go out on them. Just wait till I post on HRCC the results of my little debacle with the Glastron last fall on the River - its up in Albany getting fixed. At least I'm not doing the work this time, but I still have to pay for it - ugh...
Regarding your question about spending on an older boat, I agree with you that sometimes it does NOT make sense. It does NOT make sense if you're thinking its a cheap easy way to have a yacht like your next door neighbor. It is also not always sensible if there is a more modern version of the same boat available and you are not necessarily a fanatic about the looks/design/"classic-ness"/whatever of the older boat...
For example, somebody who wants a nice 28 Mariner might do well to buy the 1980s version, model 2897, like Terry did on the other thread. Or even the early '90s version which IMHO is the absolute best 28 foot cabin cruiser ever built. But I can understand why someone would want an older 28' flybridge boat like the Carver, because nobody makes them anymore save Bayliner, and that one is only available in single engine stern drive...
Also, the lines of the 1970s Carvers, while ugly to some, are CLASSICS to others! That other bunch of folks who post on a competing forum up in Canada, for example, buy these boats because restoring them to perfection is a joy for them. Or go on boats.com and look at some of those boats under covered storage out on the West Coast - they look like they've been in a time capsule!!!
Just don't do what the fellow did who bought my old boat. He had grandiose dreams which I greatly admired, but he had absolutely no money to make them a reality. Hence the boat has been listed for sale a few times now, most recently on Ebay last week. When he got that boat it was in decent mechanical condition, although the woodwork was rapidly deteriorating and desperately needed a good carpenter to make it allright again. The longer it sits around, the less likely the mechanicals are going to be any good, and that means the boat is going to be junk unless an enthusiast comes around...
Jim (sorry I was calling you Glenn), I'm going to check out your link, as soon as I shorten it because this erratic screen is driving me crazy!!!
LOL! John, you always crack me up
!!! But you're on to me - all I ever seem to do is work on boats, never mind go out on them. Just wait till I post on HRCC the results of my little debacle with the Glastron last fall on the River - its up in Albany getting fixed. At least I'm not doing the work this time, but I still have to pay for it - ugh...Regarding your question about spending on an older boat, I agree with you that sometimes it does NOT make sense. It does NOT make sense if you're thinking its a cheap easy way to have a yacht like your next door neighbor. It is also not always sensible if there is a more modern version of the same boat available and you are not necessarily a fanatic about the looks/design/"classic-ness"/whatever of the older boat...
For example, somebody who wants a nice 28 Mariner might do well to buy the 1980s version, model 2897, like Terry did on the other thread. Or even the early '90s version which IMHO is the absolute best 28 foot cabin cruiser ever built. But I can understand why someone would want an older 28' flybridge boat like the Carver, because nobody makes them anymore save Bayliner, and that one is only available in single engine stern drive...
Also, the lines of the 1970s Carvers, while ugly to some, are CLASSICS to others! That other bunch of folks who post on a competing forum up in Canada, for example, buy these boats because restoring them to perfection is a joy for them. Or go on boats.com and look at some of those boats under covered storage out on the West Coast - they look like they've been in a time capsule!!!
Just don't do what the fellow did who bought my old boat. He had grandiose dreams which I greatly admired, but he had absolutely no money to make them a reality. Hence the boat has been listed for sale a few times now, most recently on Ebay last week. When he got that boat it was in decent mechanical condition, although the woodwork was rapidly deteriorating and desperately needed a good carpenter to make it allright again. The longer it sits around, the less likely the mechanicals are going to be any good, and that means the boat is going to be junk unless an enthusiast comes around...
Jim (sorry I was calling you Glenn), I'm going to check out your link, as soon as I shorten it because this erratic screen is driving me crazy!!!
I see the tiny URL is broken.
Here is an example of what I'm talking about. Do an edit on me and you can see the structure.
Shortened long link, click here to see!
Hope that helps....
Here is an example of what I'm talking about. Do an edit on me and you can see the structure.
Shortened long link, click here to see!
Hope that helps....
There, that's better!!!
When you post a long link into BoaterEd it screws up the screen. There is a site out there called TINYURL.COM on which you can put the long link and get a short one to post here, making the screen easier to read - just FYI...
Only thing is, the link doesn't work!!! I went over to Yachtworld and took a look, I only see one boat advertised as a 1978 with twin PCM engines, so is this the one:
http://tinyurl.com/yru6z9
If it is, some notes:
(1) Its a '79, not a '78. I know this because it has aluminum window frames and the old logo with the stylistic "C" on the flybridge. They only did this for one year - 1979.
(2) Those engines are going to be a mess. Not necessarily mechanically, they might be fine, but plan on replacing all those hoses and wires, possibly the Holley carbs (at $500/pop) and stupid things like that exposed ballast resistor (they're cheap at least, but will wreak havoc with your ignition system). My '80, which I bought off Ebay (but was able to view it since it was local and get an idea of the pedigree by meeting the deceased owner's wife, hanging out at the yacht club and finding out about the owners, etc) had all of those problems. At least those engines are RAW, not FRESH water cooled, which is a good thing IMHO if you're going to boat in Fresh Water anyway. Pleasurecraft's FWC system is a nightmare to take apart, which you MUST do to get at the spark plugs on the port side of the engines (yes I know this from experience [:-irked])..
(3) Something happened to the port side rudder post - you can tell by all the sealant on it. Be sure to have this area checked for damage to the rudders (and props/shafts too), and also for potential hull coring problems where the rudder is bolted through the hull - it could have been hit, or simply was sagging and leaking due to core problems...
(4) Those trim tabs are not original. Doesn't mean they're bad, but be aware of this...
(5) This boat apparently has a generator - there is a switch for it on the panel in the cabin. Its an old fashioned (read: LOUSY) switch because there's no safety on it to lock out the shore power when you switch on the generator like modern boats have. Plan on changing that by adding a new switch from your local marine supply store or Boatfix.com...
(6) The prior owner did a lot of customization in the cabin. The design of the dinette, the port side settee/berth, and even the V-berth cushions are not original. This is not necessarily bad, but be sure you like the way this customization was done. This boat has the alcohol electric stove and no oven. It does have the improved, more modern SeaLand Traveler 911-M28 head which is a big plus, in my opinion...
(7) Be sure you can live with that hokey air conditioner installation...
(8) Electronics looks good, so that can be a big plus...
All in all, if I am looking at the right boat, it can be a great deal if you don't mind a project and are prepared to spend a good $5K or so properly restoring the boat by the time you're done. Depending on how you use the boat you can do much of the work over time so it's not necessarily all that bad. But be absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with that hull before you buy, otherwise the other nice features of the boat are worth absolutely nothing...
Plus, don't forget you have to get the boat home somehow, too!!!
When you post a long link into BoaterEd it screws up the screen. There is a site out there called TINYURL.COM on which you can put the long link and get a short one to post here, making the screen easier to read - just FYI...
Only thing is, the link doesn't work!!! I went over to Yachtworld and took a look, I only see one boat advertised as a 1978 with twin PCM engines, so is this the one:
http://tinyurl.com/yru6z9
If it is, some notes:
(1) Its a '79, not a '78. I know this because it has aluminum window frames and the old logo with the stylistic "C" on the flybridge. They only did this for one year - 1979.
(2) Those engines are going to be a mess. Not necessarily mechanically, they might be fine, but plan on replacing all those hoses and wires, possibly the Holley carbs (at $500/pop) and stupid things like that exposed ballast resistor (they're cheap at least, but will wreak havoc with your ignition system). My '80, which I bought off Ebay (but was able to view it since it was local and get an idea of the pedigree by meeting the deceased owner's wife, hanging out at the yacht club and finding out about the owners, etc) had all of those problems. At least those engines are RAW, not FRESH water cooled, which is a good thing IMHO if you're going to boat in Fresh Water anyway. Pleasurecraft's FWC system is a nightmare to take apart, which you MUST do to get at the spark plugs on the port side of the engines (yes I know this from experience [:-irked])..
(3) Something happened to the port side rudder post - you can tell by all the sealant on it. Be sure to have this area checked for damage to the rudders (and props/shafts too), and also for potential hull coring problems where the rudder is bolted through the hull - it could have been hit, or simply was sagging and leaking due to core problems...
(4) Those trim tabs are not original. Doesn't mean they're bad, but be aware of this...
(5) This boat apparently has a generator - there is a switch for it on the panel in the cabin. Its an old fashioned (read: LOUSY) switch because there's no safety on it to lock out the shore power when you switch on the generator like modern boats have. Plan on changing that by adding a new switch from your local marine supply store or Boatfix.com...
(6) The prior owner did a lot of customization in the cabin. The design of the dinette, the port side settee/berth, and even the V-berth cushions are not original. This is not necessarily bad, but be sure you like the way this customization was done. This boat has the alcohol electric stove and no oven. It does have the improved, more modern SeaLand Traveler 911-M28 head which is a big plus, in my opinion...
(7) Be sure you can live with that hokey air conditioner installation...
(8) Electronics looks good, so that can be a big plus...
All in all, if I am looking at the right boat, it can be a great deal if you don't mind a project and are prepared to spend a good $5K or so properly restoring the boat by the time you're done. Depending on how you use the boat you can do much of the work over time so it's not necessarily all that bad. But be absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with that hull before you buy, otherwise the other nice features of the boat are worth absolutely nothing...
Plus, don't forget you have to get the boat home somehow, too!!!
Pete-that is the boat, thanks for the input. I saw the same thing with the rudder posts. I figured that a conversion to some sort of electronic ignition would be in order at some point. Based on your previous post I would assume that aluminum would be better that the wood window frames. I planned on asking the owner about a genny as I saw the switch too. The boat is on a trailer and I have a 3/4 ton Diesel Suburban although it might be cheaper to have it hauled rather than driving both ways with the $%rb2@gr5t#&%$ price of fuel these days.
I have been looking to move from my current express cruiser to a sedan style boat to have a much more open and spacious cabin. I like the layout of this Mariner at least from the Photos. I hope I can use your expertise if I move forward with this boat. I have also looked at a Uniflite Mega which is in the same area also at a reasonable price.
Jim (Glenn is the middle name, Cal is part of last name, helps me not to forget user id)
I have been looking to move from my current express cruiser to a sedan style boat to have a much more open and spacious cabin. I like the layout of this Mariner at least from the Photos. I hope I can use your expertise if I move forward with this boat. I have also looked at a Uniflite Mega which is in the same area also at a reasonable price.
Jim (Glenn is the middle name, Cal is part of last name, helps me not to forget user id)
Yeah, its good to have A/C on that boat, I just wish the prior owner had splurged for a good built in unit. I was lucky on my boat - the previous owner had installed a beautiful unit under the dinette...
I would guess its going to weigh about 12,000 lbs for towing, just FYI. I know the Carver brochure says 8620 but I think that's with single engine and regardless it doesn't include all the fluids/gear/occupants of your vehicle and that heavy trailer...
The aluminum windows are definitely better overall, although IMHO they don't look anywhere near as sharp as the teak ones. The biggest thing I miss on the 2896 is the lack of an opening front windshield. On the older boats you literally could open up the entire front of the flybridge. That was just heavenly, not to mention easier to operate when the full canvas was up and you were trying to shout instructions to your crew (read: scream at your wife [:-mischievous]) while docking. The newer model has those side vent windows like your uncle's old Caprice used to have, which are nice, but still a lot of summer heat accumulates under those big sealed glass panels...
There is a very good electronic ignition system available for that boat from a company called Pertronix. They are sold aftermarket by Sierra and Mallory, and available through BoatFix or your local retailer. I have them in my boat and they are terrific. Just make sure you do it up right - don't just install the new ignitions, take the distributor apart and clean/oil those advance weights and springs so that everything is real loose under there. Mine were hardly moving when I first got the boat, after a couple of hours and a wire brush and a lot of WD40 they sprung back and forth quite easily and the boat performs great. If you've got the right props on there that boat should practically fly out of the hole and settle down to a nice cruising speed at about 2800-3200 RPM, very impressive for a big, awkward flybridge cruiser like that one...
Believe it or not, I have had the pleasure of piloting the Uniflite Mega 28! An old gentleman I used to know owned one, and he was a bit chicken to drive it, so on occasion I would chauffeur him and his wife around. It was a pretty nice boat, interior accomodations probably a bit more comparable with the Carver 2826 Voyager as opposed to the Mariner, but similar. The Uniflite is probably a little more seaworthy (although check the hull carefully for cracks and blisters!), the Carver a bit more plush and luxurious. BOTH boats are fairly rare sights these days, so you'll attract a good deal of attention, that's for sure!!!
PS - thanks for your advice on the links, John! I have to spend some time and figure out how to do that right. I've been known to post a few long links on my own, as you know!!!
I would guess its going to weigh about 12,000 lbs for towing, just FYI. I know the Carver brochure says 8620 but I think that's with single engine and regardless it doesn't include all the fluids/gear/occupants of your vehicle and that heavy trailer...
The aluminum windows are definitely better overall, although IMHO they don't look anywhere near as sharp as the teak ones. The biggest thing I miss on the 2896 is the lack of an opening front windshield. On the older boats you literally could open up the entire front of the flybridge. That was just heavenly, not to mention easier to operate when the full canvas was up and you were trying to shout instructions to your crew (read: scream at your wife [:-mischievous]) while docking. The newer model has those side vent windows like your uncle's old Caprice used to have, which are nice, but still a lot of summer heat accumulates under those big sealed glass panels...
There is a very good electronic ignition system available for that boat from a company called Pertronix. They are sold aftermarket by Sierra and Mallory, and available through BoatFix or your local retailer. I have them in my boat and they are terrific. Just make sure you do it up right - don't just install the new ignitions, take the distributor apart and clean/oil those advance weights and springs so that everything is real loose under there. Mine were hardly moving when I first got the boat, after a couple of hours and a wire brush and a lot of WD40 they sprung back and forth quite easily and the boat performs great. If you've got the right props on there that boat should practically fly out of the hole and settle down to a nice cruising speed at about 2800-3200 RPM, very impressive for a big, awkward flybridge cruiser like that one...
Believe it or not, I have had the pleasure of piloting the Uniflite Mega 28! An old gentleman I used to know owned one, and he was a bit chicken to drive it, so on occasion I would chauffeur him and his wife around. It was a pretty nice boat, interior accomodations probably a bit more comparable with the Carver 2826 Voyager as opposed to the Mariner, but similar. The Uniflite is probably a little more seaworthy (although check the hull carefully for cracks and blisters!), the Carver a bit more plush and luxurious. BOTH boats are fairly rare sights these days, so you'll attract a good deal of attention, that's for sure!!!
PS - thanks for your advice on the links, John! I have to spend some time and figure out how to do that right. I've been known to post a few long links on my own, as you know!!!
Darn, sorry to hear that, Jim! The boat was up for sale for quite awhile (yes I am a geek and read all those Carver listings periodically!)...
I hope someone from this forum didn't do that to you!!!
PS - where are you located? Here's a nice 1980 (similar to mine) in Grand Haven MI for $15,900:
1980 Carver in MI
Or a 1981 in Buffalo, NY (single engine):
1981 Carver in Buffalo NY
Or this "1978" (actually a '79) on a lake in NJ (could be interesting, Lake Hopatcong isn't that big, calm protected waters), w/Twin FWC Crusaders:
1979 in NJ
PS - John, I finally figured out how to do those long URLs your way !!!
I hope someone from this forum didn't do that to you!!!
PS - where are you located? Here's a nice 1980 (similar to mine) in Grand Haven MI for $15,900:
1980 Carver in MI
Or a 1981 in Buffalo, NY (single engine):
1981 Carver in Buffalo NY
Or this "1978" (actually a '79) on a lake in NJ (could be interesting, Lake Hopatcong isn't that big, calm protected waters), w/Twin FWC Crusaders:
1979 in NJ
PS - John, I finally figured out how to do those long URLs your way
!!!It is a newer generation and is a voyager, but this just popped up on ebay today...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ADME:B:SS:US:1123&viewitem=&item=170195762234
Jim
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ADME:B:SS:US:1123&viewitem=&item=170195762234
Jim
That could be a good choice too - just watch out, because (a) its in Florida which means it was likely used hard, and (b) its owned by a non-profit, which means that its likely a restoration project and someone donated it to get rid of the headache...