A new issue with my new boat

R

Rugger8

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exMember
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24444
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231
Well, this is starting to get really frustrating. Windscreen is still not fixed after 2 months, no response from the president of the company after 1.5 weeks. And now when I went out to the boat today, the engines and electrical started giving me problems. Here is what I experienced.

Took the boat out with less than half a tank of fuel, 2 people on board, and no canvas. First off, the boat only topped out at 42 mph. Previously on this boat, I topped out at 52 mph, with full tanks and canvas up. checked the props to see if anything wrapped around them and nothing was. Started and stopped about 4-5 times to see if that would do the trick. No luck. Also, the right engine gauge would surge from 3500 rpm to over 5000 rpm, but in reality, I don't think the engine was actually surging, because I did not hear the engine surge, or feel the boat tip because of the higher rpm. Also, at the same time this was going on, when I opened her up to WOT an alarm would go off and the engines would scale back on their own, or at least that's what if felt like. Both engine temperatures were normal. I made it a short trip in case the impeller blew and went back to my mooring. Then when I did that, I tried to check the engine compartment and the engine hatch would not lift (electrical lift). After resetting all the circuit breakers I was able to get the engine hatch to open from the main electrical switch next to the captains chair, but the remote switch next to the engine compartment still did not work. Also, the remote switch for the arch lights next to that also did not work. Anyhow, checked the oil and transmission levels and both were fine. Checked the strainer, and it was ok. But I only found 1 strainer. does anyone know if there are separate strainers for each engine and the generator or only 1 for all 3. Anyhow, any other ideas on what I should be checking. it seems like there are issues with the electrical and the engines at this point. But both came on all at once. The boat worked fine 10 days ago.

Thanks for your help and ideas,
 
That is a lot of problems to occur all at once. They almost have to be connected. It may be a 12 volt short causing you problems. If it is still under warranty call the dealer. If not, get a good 12 volt meter and start checking all of the electrical systems that failed or surged.
 
The only strainer you'll find in the bilge is the one for the gen set, the engines will draw water in through the outdrives. As far as the transom switches for the hatch/arch lites/bilge lites, if none of these are operational, I would try following the wireing harness from the switch location and make sure something didn't come disconnected or pinched and shorted the might be causing an sensor alarm condition. Where the amp gauges reading normal? Like Nawtical1 suggest, it may be worth a call to the dealer. Good Luck.
 
ok, thanks pleasure time. The batteries were both reading around 13 amps, which seems pretty normal to me. If they ever get around to sending me a new windshield I will have it all done at once, but unless I get this resolved I may need to make a separate trip to the dealer to get this resolved first.
 
I had a 3560 prior to current boat and had the same problem with alarms at WOT.The heat sensors in riser manifolds were replaced and never went off again.
 
I assume you mean 13 volts?

Is that after or while the engines are running?

If you have Faria gauges then tach surging is "normal" Try the Faria rap, smartly smacking the face of the gauge with your knuckles or palm of your hand to see if that corrects the issue. When your hand gets sore each time you boat then it's time to call Faria for a replacement. Plan on doing that every few years. (Hell, I'm on gauge number 3 for this year alone! Sad but true)

Since you use a mooring the batteries are certainly not being left on a charger during the week. Is it possible you left something on during the past 10 days that weakened the batteries? On my boat some of the helm electronics run off the starting batteries for example the VHF and Plotter/Radar. Low voltage COULD cause a performance issue.

As for the switches, I've heard that due to their location they are easily damaged and several people I know have fashioned a switch cover. I wonder if someone is boarding your boat during the week? Might be time to layout some traps like string around the door latch or even a large leg hold trap!

The alarm at WOT could be the results of a spark miss due to low voltage. A long shot but possible.
 
Hi Jeff,

You're making me nervous about thinking about a new(er) boat.. Hopefully, you'll get all these issues resolved the first season and all will be good for you.

I have no thoughts other than what's already been posted above, so keep us posted as to the outcome..

Thanks,
 
Yes Rommer, I meant 13 V. Those are some good ideas. When I went on the batteries were all off and the VHF, Chartplotter were also off. I don't know if there is anything that would pull voltage when the batteries are off. As for someone going on the boat, it is certainly a possibility, but no thing was out of the ordinary. I do have a bear trap that I might put out there, but it might be a bit messy. You are right about the gauges being screwy though, because both gauges for the engine height were screwed up from the start, so waiting on those to be repaired as well...This sure seems like a lot of issues for a new boat with the reputation that Regal has. BTW, there were quite a few barnacles on the outdrives, so I am going to clean those off today. I assume that could be part of the speed problem, but 10 mph loss seems like too much to be the only issue. Also, the engines peaked at around 5500 rpm, which I believe is much lower than what they did before, but can't remember where they were supposed to top out at.

dpil222 - thanks for the info on the riser manifolds. If these other options don't work, then I will bring that up with the dealer.
 
5500RPMS sounds MUCH too high for the 8.1's

From the Mercury site

496 MAG HO MPI - 425 hp
Full Throttle Range 4600 - 5000 RPM

496 MAG MPI - 375 hp
Full Throttle Range 4400 - 4800 RPM
 
Hi Jeff,

I agree with Rommer on the RPM's..
I know you're running Volvos, but I would think they wouldn't be much above 5K at WOT.
 
BTW - you would be amazed at how much speed can you can lose with barnicials.

Just a suggestion Jeff but have you tried to establish a relationship with the local Regal dealer or are you still dealing with the dealer in Long Island? I'd give Zoellers a call and try working with them. A short hop across the river. I've even seen them come out with replacement parts via boat and do work while a boat is rafted up with others.
 
John,

I have not started working with them yet, but after this episode, I was already thinking that I should try and start up a relationship with them, because the other dealer is simply too far away.
 
tachs can be inacurate and as mentioned above, try tapping on it to get it back where it belongs.

if you have barnacles on the drives, props, tabs or hulls, all bets are off on speed ! you'd be surprised how easy it it to loose a few knots... the faster the boat the more important a clean hull is.

You need to be familiar with the boat and is pluming... starting with seacocks and strainers. you should be able to see where the hose from that strainer is going... likely to the genset. Being familiar with the system is critical on the water so you can get to things quickly if needed.

you also need to find out if there is a way to manually open the hatch. again a critical safety issue... if you have a short and electrical fire, you want to be able to get in there, now.

the alarm could be different thing, it depends on the engine/drive. even gear temperature or gear oil pressure. your engine manual shoudl tell you what activates it.

engines scaling back on their own could be a safety feature triggered by the sensor, kind of a limp home mode. again, your manual shoudl detail all that.

not sure how the electrical problem woudl be related to the rest... where to start on that depends on the electrical system. having the diagram would help, maybe the lights and remote hatch switch are ran off the same feed.
 
Thanks Pascal,

I will start off with cleaning the barnacles off today and try and troubleshoot the wiring. There is a small hatch that gives me easy access to the compartment for minor stuff, but you are right, I need to find out how to manually open the hatch if the electric goes completely haywire again. I will let you know what I find out after I mess around with it again today.
 
The RPM is way too hight for 8.1s. If you have barnacles on the outdrive then also check your trim tabs, if they are "fuzzy" and /or have barnacle sthen you most likely also have a "dirty" bottom. 10 Mph off is nothing, a friend of mine could not even get on plane because of barnacles, after not using the biat for two weeks.

I do not know if the 3560 has a day hatch, but I would think so. You reach in and disconnect the safety pin from the hatch ram and open it if you have no power to lift the hatch.

I also had bad sensors on a 2002 3860 with 8.1s HO, got them changed under warranty and never had an issue again.
 
ok, went back out to the boat today and scrapped barnacles off of the outdrives and bottom. The bottom was pretty clean, almost nothing on there; however, the outdrives were coated with barnacles. After 4 hours of scraping, all was clean again. When I took the boat for a run, it performed much better. instead of running 42 mph, it ran around 47.5 mph at WOT. Unfortunately, this is still below what it did before (52 mph). Also, I could only run at WOT for 1-2 minute before the alarm would go off and the engines would slow down (without my pulling the throttles down). The good part is that when I ran at cruise speed (3500 RPM), the boat ran perfectly normal for about an hour. But every time I opened her up to WOT, within 2 minutes, she would shut herself down with the alarm sounding. Also, the transom remote switched still did not work. Any other ideas?

BTW, I leave for Europe tomorrow night, so if I don't respond after tomorrow, it is because I don't have access, but please still let me know what you think it might be.

Thanks,
 
Jeff

The alarm will set a code in the control module that can be read with a scan tool. Unfortunately I don't have one but since this is an engine issue ANY Mercury certified dealer can do the work under warrenty. The best barr none in our area is Penneybridge in Stony Point. Excellent staff, great service and they take appointments. I'd call them and schedule something. You may even be able to drop the boat off while you are gone.

Their service number is (845) 786-3450
 
The alarm is most likely the exhaust temp. sensors in the risers, as stated before. Have the dealer replace. Or just have the dealer give them to you and you replace yourself. They just screw in and then have small electrical plug on end. Treat them nice as they are finicky, as least that's what my mechanic told me. I'm on my third set, they've been fine for 1.5 seasons.
 
Thanks John, but I have Volvo Penta engines, so it seems like it is just the sensor, according to other posts. I will have the dealer check it out when I get back and he better have my windshield by then!!!

Also, I forgot to mention this, but the RPM's maxed out at 4700-4800, which seems to be in the normal range.
 
Sorry Jeff, I keep forgetting that BUT all is not lost as they are certified for Volvo Penta as well.

"Factory authorized and trained for all Mercury (A Platinum Dealer), OMC, Volvo and Crusader engine repairs." (from their website)
 
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