AC unit size for helm

A

aquahauler

Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2001
RO Number
4364
Messages
75
I plan on installing an AC unit for the cockpit area of my boat. The boat is a 38' express/sport fishing boat with full hardtop and canvas/glass enclosure. I have been told to go with a 24000 unit however I would prefer to go with a 16000 unit so I am not working the genny more than necessary. Boat will spend most of the time in south Florida. Looking for input.
 
It might be well sealed but it's not well insulated. I'd be inclined to go with the bigger unit.
 
Largest 115volt AC unit is aprox 16,000 btu's. I have 44 Sundancer and let me tell u 16,000 btu's is worthless once the sun come out . At nite and in early summer no issues. Heat of the summer its useless. Other boat Manufacturers have put 30,000 btu's or more and that is the way to go but impossible in our set up . ( there is not enough electric capacity ) I have blk out curtains , Shades etc... helps slightly. ( oh and Im up here in NY )

Sorry

Rob
 
quote:
Originally posted by Robski97

Largest 115volt AC unit is aprox 16,000 btu's. I have 44 Sundancer and let me tell u 16,000 btu's is worthless once the sun come out . At nite and in early summer no issues. Heat of the summer its useless. Other boat Manufacturers have put 30,000 btu's or more and that is the way to go but impossible in our set up . ( there is not enough electric capacity ) I have blk out curtains , Shades etc... helps slightly. ( oh and Im up here in NY )

Sorry

Rob

Click to expand...


King Air (from alk's A/C thread) makes a 19K 110V unit.

Capt. Bill1 is spot on.

For south FLA figure on at least two to three of those 19K units for starters.

Neither fairy tale nor sea story follows.

When I was in the Navy, we ran engineering drills that the whole ship was involved in. One of the drills was a main propulsion and aux equipment catastrophic failure. The ship (both that I was on) would go from a meat locker to a sauna in less than 10 minutes. Drills were held in FLA, Carribean and South China Sea.
 
Wow, I am not encouraged! The boat does have a feature where it draws cool air from the lowest part of the cabin with an auxiliary fan and comes out at the helm area. It doesn't do much but it helps a little. I hope a 18000 or 19000 unit will work with it helping.
 
16,000 is not enough. you must go at least 24,000 btu's.
 
What about a misting system either by itself or to augment an A/C unit.

I have no idea if it would work, I'm just throwing it out there.
 
David

Odd that you would mention that because I have considered installing a misting system on my fly bridge. Seems like the wind would knock the mist away very quickly and it may not have any impact. During the spring, Sam's sells a very cheap misting system that could be tapped into the fresh water supply.
 
quote:
Originally posted by folieadeux

David

Odd that you would mention that because I have considered installing a misting system on my fly bridge. Seems like the wind would knock the mist away very quickly and it may not have any impact. During the spring, Sam's sells a very cheap misting system that could be tapped into the fresh water supply.

Click to expand...


I can see your point underway, but at anchor?
 
Personally I suggest:
a) if your boat is wired 110/230 VAC. go with the 24,000 btu's you will not feel sorry for.

b) look for space too.

By the way I have a cruisair 24,000Btu' used one season. Like to sell. Doesn't work on my 21'.
 
Well if the aft area has an insulated hardtop I would suggest a camper style 15-16,000BTU init with a couple of 12VDC BORA fans it works quite nicely to heat or cool my upper helm area. I posted pictures in a similar thread. Being you are in Florida you might need 2 of these units. I think I posted a picture for Robski earlier this year? Does anyone have a link to the previous thread? If you get them I would suggest ordering aftermarket soft start boards to reduce the compressor load on the generator. These camper style units mount overhead so the cool air floats down which is the ideal way to deliver cool or cold air a big plus is you need no water pump for this style AV/reverse air unit if you have the space on the aft hardtop.
It sure helps take the humidity out of the air even on 100 degree days here in Southern NJ.
Bill
 
I use 2 conventional 16,000 BTU MarineAirr units to cool the interior of my 40 Sedan Bridge. Even in the cabins I use BORA 12VDC fans to help disperse the cold air or warm air in the early winter.
We were out on the boat today and used the bridge heatpump reverse unit to stay warm. We are inside now it's about 34 degrees outside and 76 degrees inside tonight. Too bad the boat get's pulled this Thursday/Friday.
Bill
 
DSCF0748.jpg

Lets try this
 
40MainshipHardtop3.jpg

Here is what it looks like on top it is a low profile unit, this was prior to me installing my Wave WiFi high power WiFi unit and larger solar panels. Actually the picture is pretty old the KVH252 TracPhone is now a Skipper 150FB on Fleet Broadband, the TV antenna is a larger 14" Glomex and on a 2' mast and the old Garmin radar a GMR40 is now a GMR18HD. I also have a Garmin WX station and more antennas on the hardtop.
Bill
 
The frame you see is made of 1" thick starboard under the hardtop. This created the airbox for the AC unit and the holes are vents for the cold air or warm air depending on the setting. The unit is controlled by a handheld remote control. I purchased it new from a dealer on E-Bay. The 1st unit came with minor damage, the company sent me an advance replacement and after 2 years of trying to get an RMA to return the unit I gave up it sits in my office's warehouse for the day this one gives up the ghost. It also has a 5000 watt heat strip which I removed from the unit because the heatpump works fine without it.
I just found the manual it is a Carrier AirV unit made for campers and RV's it is rated at 15,000 BTU's.
 
Wireless one, that looks like a verY job. I like the idea because it saves room. That said, it would not work on my top. Nice job though.
 
We knew someone with a 46 Carver M/Y with a hard bridge enclosure. No gels or canvas. All glass and a hard top. The 16k unit was running full tilt boogie all the time and useless. It remained warm inside the bridge and we had to shout.

What we have done for our aft deck, is make up snap in shades made out of linen that block the sun. Huge difference. Don't use Velcro as mildew will invade it and turn it black. Try this first. BTW we have a FBG hard top over the aft deck and this blocks quite a bit of heat.
 
I have a 44' express cruiser with 24k unit. My hardtop is aluminum and have strataglass on all sides. It does not keep the inside temp to 72 but will keep a steady 80 when it is close to 100 and the sun bearing down outside. If it gets the least bit cloudy or when the sun goes down she cools off instantly. But she will work fairly hard during the day. Yours being a 38' express may not need quite as much to keep it cool but I would put the max that your system would allow. no matter what you will feel some relief in the evenings and cloudy days.

Even if it is hot in the evening a 18k unit will cool you down inside but may not give you the relief you need during the day.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top