Anchor windlass not working

K

Kevdon22

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2012
RO Number
32964
Messages
337
Tried my first anchoring exwecise of the year yesterday and found that the windlass would not work. I tested it before launch and it did work. Lucky that my son was on board to launch and retrieve anchor with the clutch loosened.

I checked the circuit breaker in the bilge near the battery and there is voltage on both sides.

Neither the switch nor the buttons at the bow do anything.

Is there another breaker near or within the windlass? When I flip the switch there is no voltage drop on the gauge. Also the circuit breaker near the battery does not trip. Did not time to troubleshoot Sunday.

I wonder if there is a breaker in the control system somewhere.

Any thoughts?

The windlass is a horizon express installed on a 1999 Silverton 422 and has never had any repairs yet.

Appreciate any comments.
 
Ours is an aftermarket installation, so maybe not the same as your (factory?) version.. but we have both breaker (engine room) and activation switch (helm). The latter happens to use a previously unused switch marked "ACC."

-Chris
 
Check all connections in cluding the ground connections. Since you have dual controls I doubt the problem is either the foot switches on the bow or the up/down center off switch at the helm. Most windlass units draw a considerable amount of current so your connections need to be top notch and tight. In addition most use a control relay it might be stuck or have failed trace the wiring and you should find the relay near the windlass.
Bill
 
We're all guessing, but there should in best practice, be a breaker or fuse right near the windlass itself. The breaker in the ER protects the cable tyo the windlass, and the breaker near the windlass protects its motor and the solenoids/relays. That is where you need to check voltage.
 
George we might be guessing but a logical process is needed when troubleshooting a problem like this.
1) check the connections positive and negative at the battery feeding the windlass circuit.
2) Check the circuit breaker or fuse usually located at the power source for the windlass, check it under load meaning while trying to engage the windlass.
3) Find the high currect control relay and sometimes optional fuse near the windlass for volatge. Either component should be located very close to the windlass. Make sure you use the windlass ground lead when checking any voltage point in the windlass circuit.
Have someone operate the switches at both locations and check the relay to make sure the voltage is being passed to the windlass when engaed to raise the anchor, if it is not clicking and passing voltage make sure you have a positive voltage (lower current) control voltage if you do and it still doesn't work replace the windlass relay if there are both the control 12VDC and the high current 12VDC voltage entering the relay but not getting to the windlass. The control voltage will only be there when the control switches are operated.
4) Check the cabling from the windlass (at the windlass) it might require some disassembly of the windlass.
5) If everything looks good and the windlass still won't work try putting a load in place of the windlass like your bow spotlight it should come on and off when the windlass controls are engaged.
If the windlass doesn't work it is possibly a mechanical problem in the windlass or a bad motor in the windlass.

The RO wasn't clear on the type of windlass free fall or controlled drop? Can he lower the anchor and just not raise it? If so you are getting the voltage to release the clutch on the windlass or engage the down circuit. This still could be a bad relay but without following the above proceedure then we are guessing.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by Kevdon22

Tried my first anchoring exwecise of the year yesterday and found that the windlass would not work. I tested it before launch and it did work. Lucky that my son was on board to launch and retrieve anchor with the clutch loosened.

I checked the circuit breaker in the bilge near the battery and there is voltage on both sides.

Neither the switch nor the buttons at the bow do anything.

Is there another breaker near or within the windlass? When I flip the switch there is no voltage drop on the gauge. Also the circuit breaker near the battery does not trip. Did not time to troubleshoot Sunday.

I wonder if there is a breaker in the control system somewhere.

Any thoughts?

The windlass is a horizon express installed on a 1999 Silverton 422 and has never had any repairs yet.

Click to expand...


If the windlass has a contactor (relay), there will be a fuse or circuit breaker protecting the control circuit. Somewhere between five and twenty amps. This is in addition to the high current breaker protecting the power circuit.

I doubt anyone here can tell you where the fuses or breakers are unless this was a factory installation and they have or have serviced an identical boat. You will have to find them and test them.

I installed my windlass myself and the fuse for the control circuit is near the contactor because I took power from the power circuit for the control circuit.
 
Ron every installation can be different but the basics should be similar. In mine the thruster battery bank is located under the front berth and used for the windlass power. So my high current windlass fuse is located off that battery system. I did the same as you with the control voltage by using a ATC style fuse off of the high current relay/solenoid.
Bill
 
before tearing into anything with your electrical tester, does your boat have a windlass lockout switch at the helm?
 
Thanks all for the comments.
FYI the Horizon Express does not have a free fall capability.
It is very fast on down, sometimes too fast, and no need for freefall.
If there is a kill switch I have not seen it in over 12 years of ownership.
The unit is a factory install, normally I would call the factory to get technical information.
Since the factory is shut down, that assistance is gone.

I did not have time Sunday to find or check for another circuit braker of fuse either in the control system or near the Windlass.
As I mentioned, I did not see any fall on the voltmeter when I pressed the button on the bridge, nor did the breaker near the battery trip. The system seems dead, except I know that there is voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker near the battery in the bilge.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Kevdon22

Thanks all for the comments.
FYI the Horizon Express does not have a free fall capability.
It is very fast on down, sometimes too fast, and no need for freefall.
If there is a kill switch I have not seen it in over 12 years of ownership.
The unit is a factory install, normally I would call the factory to get technical information.
Since the factory is shut down, that assistance is gone.

I did not have time Sunday to find or check for another circuit braker of fuse either in the control system or near the Windlass.
As I mentioned, I did not see any fall on the voltmeter when I pressed the button on the bridge, nor did the breaker near the battery trip. The system seems dead, except I know that there is voltage on both sides of the circuit breaker near the battery in the bilge.

Click to expand...


Someone in the Owner's Club may know, then, if you can't find the cause...

-Chris
 
I called Simpson Lawrence today in Florida and got some good information.
First as suggested by others, they confirmed that there is a small (3 Amp?) fuse in the control system, if blown, it would disable both the foot buttons on the bow and the helm switch.
If that is OK then the solenoid is suspect. Jumping from the hot terminal on the solenoid to one of the terminals. If the motor runs, then the solenoud is defective.

Now the bad news, a new direct replacement of the windlass that fits in the existing bolt holes, etc is not available; although most parts probably are available and there are service centers that make repairs if needed.
Hopefully I will learn more this weekend.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Kevdon22

I called Simpson Lawrence today in Florida and got some good information.
First as suggested by others, they confirmed that there is a small (3 Amp?) fuse in the control system, if blown, it would disable both the foot buttons on the bow and the helm switch.
If that is OK then the solenoid is suspect. Jumping from the hot terminal on the solenoid to one of the terminals. If the motor runs, then the solenoud is defective.
Click to expand...


Assuming you have power to the control circuit, you should be able to hear the solenoid (contactor) click when the helm or foot switches are activated. You may have to get close to it to hear the click.
 
The solenoid on mine freezes up every few years - they are easy to take apart and lubricate if that is the issue - no need to buy a new one.
 
Thanks,
Some good points re repair/finding the solenoid.
Hope to resolve this tomorrow.
I have never seen the solenoid, hope it is under the front bunk.
 
It is probably located under the front berth. Follow the windlass wires backwards it should lead you to the solenoid. I would not advise taking the solenoid apart replace it if it's bad. Nothing like having a problem with the windlass at the worst possible time.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

It is probably located under the front berth. Follow the windlass wires backwards it should lead you to the solenoid. I would not advise taking the solenoid apart replace it if it's bad. Nothing like having a problem with the windlass at the worst possible time.
Bill

Click to expand...

There will be a pair of heavy cables running from the battery negative and the windlass circuit breaker to the contactor and an equally heavy pair of cables running from the contactor to the windlass so the contactor can be anywhere along that cable run. On my boat it's behind the electrical panel because that was a good place for it and it's convenient to the control wiring.

I don't think I would try to repair a contactor. I suggest replacing it if it is defective..
 
Since I installed a new thruster battery bank under the front berth that is where and why my windlass gets it's power and the contactor is up front. However my boat had a factory windlass (both Silverton and Mainship shared manufacturing facilities) Each boat has it's own way of providing power to it's windlass. I could be anywhere assuming the cable size is the same from front to back if you have no forward battery system, good point Ron. However my old factory installation fed the windlass from the port engine starting battery and the contactor is up front on the anchor lockers wall under the master berth.
We agree about the solenoid/contactor they should be replaced only repaired in a pinch.
Bill
 
Update,
I have not been able to pinpoint the location of the solenoid switches or the small fuse that is supposed to provide the voltage from the hot wire on the solenoid box to the line that provides voltage to the control circuit (footswitch plus bridge switch). It must be hidden behind some panel near the front bunk that must be removed. It is not in the compartments in the bunk under the mattress.
I have confirmed that the main circuit breaker that provides voltage from the battery to the solenoid box is functioning OK.
I have also found out that there is no voltage to the control switch on the bridge, strongly suggesting that the fuse that protects the feed from the solenoid hot post to the control circuit is blown.
Of cours the reason that this has blown is unknown, possibly a defective foot switch or solenoid.

Since I have been unable to get to locate or replace the fuse so far, I was thinking of providing a temporary parallel jumper at the flybridge from a positive connection to the control line incorporating a 5 amp fuse to blow if there is any short at the solenoid. If this blows then I may need a new solenoid or the foot pedals are defectivd.
If the system works then I know the solenoid and windlass are OK.

Anyone see a safety pooblem with this test as long as there is a 5 amp fuse in the jumper?

As always appreciate any comments
 
I installed the bypass this morning and the fuse blew without fanfare.
I am at the end of self troubleshooting.
Plan to leave the job to my mechanic including removal of any panels that apparently hide the fuse/solenoids.
 
You need to locate the solenoid/ contactor it is the most probable cause for blowing that fuse as well. I would be a bad place for the solenoid but have you looked high in the anchor locker?
Bill
 
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