Angel Island boat trip did not go well. Mechanic n

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Waynepj4

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Joined
Oct 13, 2008
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30904
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My trip to Angel Island did not go well and I will need a mechanic. I planned this trip weeks in advance, had family in town who flew out from Texas and we had to abort the trip.

I own a 2001 Bayliner 2855. I had a total of 5 adults, including myself on the boat.

The engine cranked up with no problem and we were on our way. We had a great plan. Breakfast on the boat on the way to Angel Island, segway tours once we got there. Lunch at Sams Anchor Cafe and then back to Martinez.

Breakfast worked out fine. We were leaving the marina, they were eating bagels and momosas and all was great...until I tried to get on plane..trim tabs down, stern drive down..full throttle...it gets to 3000 rpms and stays there..the stern was burried in the water and the bow was pointed way up. Couldnt get out of the whole. Slowed it down, hit the throttles again..same scenario. Asked passangers to move to the cabin to redistribute the weight forward. gets to 3100 rpms and starts to plane but still moving unusually slow..16 mph WOT. By this time we are passing under the Carquinez Bridge and into San Pablo bay. we're greeted by 3 to 4 foot swells..water splashes over the bow and on to the windsheild as we crash up and down into the waves. The water only got rougher as time went on.

Made the decision to abort our mission due to engine problems and rough water conditions.

So now I need a mechanic to look at this engine. 7.4L Mercruiser with Bravo 3 sterndrive.

The issue is it either wont throttle up to 3500 rpms and stay there or it will top out at 2900-3000 rpms and gradually lose rpms and power.

What is wrong with this boat? Has anyone had a similar experience?
 
This is kind of a remote possibility, but have you checked your trim tabs for proper operation. I experienced a similar problem with a 32' Bayliner when my trim pump failed. It sounds as if the boat was overloaded, but I wouldn't think that five people is excessive unless they were Really LARGE Texans or you have a lot of stuff on the boat. Course we all know that everything is bigger in Texas ;-)

BTW, if you had a three or four foot swell in San Pablo Bay, you would not have wanted to be on plane anyway. It would be much more comfortable and safe to slow down and take it easy. You can lift the bow a bit and let the bottom of the boat take the beating instead of your passengers.

Sorry to hear about the aborted trip, next time should go better.
 
I don't think it's the trim tabs because that wouldn't explain the mystery reduction in rpms or why it would not exceed 3000.

I hate to spend the money but I'm going to have to get a mechanic on this one
 
Are you sure you had the drive tucked in (bow down)? If your drive was down and the trim tabs down, the bow should not have stood up. Don't get me wrong, the bow will raise up. As you build up some speed the rest of the boat will also raise up on the water thus reducing the angle of the bow.
Before getting a mechanic involved ensure both the the stern drive and the trim tabs are working. The trim tabs should be down and the drive should also be fully down when starting out. If that is the case, then get it checked out. My boat is a tad smaller. I normally bring it up to 2000 rpms for a couple of seconds to get the boat moving; then give it 3/4 throttle. I don't have to mash it as the rpms of the engine will almost immediate climb to 3800-4200rpms.
 
I had the same issues on my 350 Mag Mercruiser engines and they have a safe RPM when there is an issue with the engine. It ended up being the ECMs had to be changed out they were malfunctioning. They were covered under my original warranty.

Neville
 
g
quote:
Originally posted by Lostinthedelta

I had the same issues on my 350 Mag Mercruiser engines and they have a safe RPM when there is an issue with the engine. It ended up being the ECMs had to be changed out they were malfunctioning. They were covered under my original warranty.

Neville

Click to expand...


What is an ECM?? How much would it cost?
I have am 01 so I don't think there is a warranty. No way to avoid the cost of a mechanic.
 
Before you get a mechanic, keep listening to ideas on this forum. In fact, I would recommend posting your problem in the mechanics forum: http://www.boatered.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3

This will give you a broader readership and much more experience! I used to have a similar problem before I got my trim tabs. Overloaded with too much weight in the cockpit and/or a dirty bottom were the most common culprits.

I'm glad you chose to return and not force your way in four foot swells is not very comfortale to inexperienced guests! When it is sloppy like that, heading into the Delta is a much nicer choice and many many good options for entertaining guests.

Good luck!
 
first just try it without all those folks aboard.
 
It could also be a fuel filter. If the performance was declining over time it could also be an air filter. I would start with the fuel filter. I would also visually check the trim tabs and outdrive trim. For the trim tabs check them while at the dock and physically verify they are moving. You could then go out and try them on the water. I wouldn't suggest trying to watch them operate at speed but you could trim them down stop the boat and then go look at them. Have someone else raise them back up while you are watching them to make sure they travel the same distance that you observed at the dock. The weight should not be an issue for your size boat.

The ECM is the Engine Control Module. It certainly won't be inexpensive so hopefully it is not that.

You might also make sure you don't have any prop damage as that could effect the pitch which could keep you from getting up to speed.

We spent the last week on the Delta and came back to SF on Friday. There were pretty good sized waves right after the Carquinez Bridge so hopefully you weren't coming in to SF on Friday. I was amazed that there were a few 14 outboard runabouts fishing out there. You had a hard time seeing them when they were in between waves.

Kris
 
Don't despair Wayne, I started a trip once with the fuel line disconnected and the shift mechanism reversed. Since this time, I do quite a bit of testing before committing to a large trip.

Corrosion_everywhere.jpg
 
quote:
Originally posted by Flutterby

Some lessons are harder then others.......

Click to expand...

Situation resolved. I had a faulty fuel pump. At 3000 rpms the pump pressure would decline.

I had a brand new fuel pump installed. Cost me 400 for the part and 400 for labor.

A pretty penny but I tested her today and all is well. Ample power from the engine. Cruising speed of 26-27mph again.
 
Wayne,
If you move up to a 305 you may have twice as many problems. Just kidding.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Flutterby

Glad all is well again Wayne!

Click to expand...

That hole in the water quote is coming true in my case as well. I guess the repairs will never stop.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Waynepj4

quote:
Originally posted by Flutterby

Glad all is well again Wayne!

Click to expand...

That hole in the water quote is coming true in my case as well. I guess the repairs will never stop.

Click to expand...


Strange. Wife and I were headed to Sausalito again. All was well but as soon as we got under the carquinez bridge the same problem occurred again. Mystery reduction in RPMs without touching the throttles. Aborted trip, was heading back to Martinez Marina and the rpms kicked back up again. hmmm. Taking it back to the mechanic to take another look. There shouldnt be an additional charge if not repaired correctly the first time.
 
Wayne, not to be a pessimist, but you better put your ruby shoes on and click them three times while saying:"There shouldn't be an additional charge if not repaired correctly the first time." The mechanic will undoubtedly find something else that was wrong ALSO. They very rarely back up; that's why I do almost all of my own work!

Good luck and I hope the mechanic does right by you!
 
In my shop manual there is a trouble/analysis section I looked at the trouble mode poor performance and there are fuel, power unit, lower unit and electrical elements to check then you just turn to that chapter, read, follow the diagnostic procedure and if the diagnostic indicates a failed part then and only then replace the failed part. It took me being without my boat during 6 weeks of prime time in the summer before I took control of my own maintenance so I know it takes a while to come around. I probably over bought tools and spare parts, but it feels so good being in control.
 
quote:
Originally posted by DeltaDawg

In my shop manual there is a trouble/analysis section I looked at the trouble mode poor performance and there are fuel, power unit, lower unit and electrical elements to check then you just turn to that chapter, read, follow the diagnostic procedure and if the diagnostic indicates a failed part then and only then replace the failed part. It took me being without my boat during 6 weeks of prime time in the summer before I took control of my own maintenance so I know it takes a while to come around. I probably over bought tools and spare parts, but it feels so good being in control.

Click to expand...


Wow. Six weeks during the summer without your boat is no fun at all. paying the huge repair bill isnt much fun either. I understand the major incentive to do your own repairs. I need tools, repair manual and..well..skills. Im not a mechanic..Im a sales manager. Perhaps you can show me the ropes.

If I handle my own maintanence and make things worse by making a mistake there is no mechanic to blame for the error.
 
Sales manager to do it yourself mechanic? Sounds like a challenge. One of the secrets I found to sales is finding the customer's spoken and unspoken needs and proposing a solution to satisfy that need. Being inconvienced twice in your case might not be a big enough motivator yet like it was for me being without my boat 6 weeks only you can judge that. If you are serious about taking some control, they have some shop manuals on this our forum's host site http://www.boatfix.com/seloc.asp?cat=io

What to get for tools? Now this fun and I am sure others would love to chime in and we might want to start a thread: bent needle nose pliers, slip joint pliers, water pump pliers (channel lock is a brand), phillips, flat blade and torx screw drivers, 1/2 and 3/8 rachets and "click" in-lb and ft-lb torque wrenches, metric sockets, extensions, universals, metric deep sockets, metric allen wrenches, metric combination wrenches, crimper striper, various spade connectors, heat shrink tubing, heat gun, the deep socket for your spark plugs, the deep socket for your prop, o-ring pliers, good multimeter, brass brush for cleaning contacts, flat and wire feeler gauges...

What to get for spares? spark plugs, some clean them with contact cleaner that stuff is to flamable to keep around so I just replace the plugs, some like chem tool for cleaning the carb again that stuff is to flamable for me, oil, oil filter, extra kill switch laynard, prop and extra stainless steel cotter pins to lock the nut, 10 micron water separating fuel filter, gaskets and o ring maintenance kits for the lower unit, carb repair kit unless you are fuel injected then skip that.
 
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