Another winterizing engine queestion

A

akisp

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2002
RO Number
10052
Messages
36
I know it has been covered and I have looked at most posts. I just need all your help to assure I did this right. I have a 1997 5.7 mercruiser raw water cooled. I opened 2 drain plugs for the blaock and 2 for the manifolds, 1 for a large hose in front of the engine. I then took the tstat out and poured AF directly in the block and the large hoses and the two smaller ones on the Tstat housing.

Before all this was done I ran the engine till the temp came up and pumped 5 gallons from the outdrive directly in the engine. I used the -60 purple stuff. When all was finished I cracked open one of the drain plugs to check and it was a very dark purple blackish color. I was nervous so I drained all the stuff and did the procedure above.

Total was around 3 1/2 - 4 gallons.

Does seem right?

I lost an engine once not from winterizing so Im a bit nervous.

Thanks in advance.
 
I am not sure how much antifreeze the 5.7L takes, but it sounds like the antifreeze in the block should protect it. I just drain the block/manifolds and fill with pink.
 
2 Gallons for the block and then it all depends on how full you think you need to fill the Manifolds and risers.

Rather than taking out the thermostat etc. you can accomplish the same thing by simply romoving the upper end of the large hose on the front of the engine to the water pump....Just start pouring into there and it'll fill the block and you'll KNOW when it's full. (Takes about 2 gallons)
 
I think you are good to go. Ther are testers for propylene glycol that you can use to test the mix you drained from the block.
 
I like to remove the drain plugs...poke the openings to make sure they drain...remove the big hose on the front waterpump on both ends...that holds a lot of water...disconnect the raw water intake hose...point it down in the bilge to drain...some have a power steering cooler that needs to be drained...you also have to remove the manifold drains and poke the holes..then I re-connect the front hose on the bottom...start filling from the other end of that hose...till the AF (-100) pushes out any water left inside..then put some grease or gasket sealer on the threads and replace em..and fill till you see AF come out the thermo housing on the engine then reconnect the hose. Block/heads are then filled. I do the same with the manifolds...disconnect hoses at thermo housing...remove drain plug...poke opening...then fill with a little AF which will push out any water..put grease or sealer on drain plugs..replace plugs...fill thru the hoses till AF runs out the exhaust...finally...fill the raw water intake hose till it runs out the water intakes on the lower unit...I like to spray the engine (especially the oil pan) with Boeshield or similar since the engine will get a lot of condensation on it over the winter...
 
I helped my son do his 5.7 IO Merc last year. Took out the thermostat. Took a short 2' hose and connected it to ear muffs, put a funnel in the other end. Started the motor while I poured 3 gallons on antifreeze into the funnel. Engine and outdrive now have plenty of AF in them. The last 10 seconds or so of running the engine, we sprayed fogger into the carb.
I live by the KISS principal - Keep It Simple, Stupid.
 
Draining in my opinioin is best...not just because it's the safest way...but because if you never take the plugs out...and one day have to well you may have a real problem on your hands....
 
quote:
Originally posted by cwms

I helped my son do his 5.7 IO Merc last year. Took out the thermostat. Took a short 2' hose and connected it to ear muffs, put a funnel in the other end. Started the motor while I poured 3 gallons on antifreeze into the funnel. Engine and outdrive now have plenty of AF in them. The last 10 seconds or so of running the engine, we sprayed fogger into the carb.
I live by the KISS principal - Keep It Simple, Stupid.

Click to expand...


Unless you drained the block and exhaust manifolds, you are taking a BIG chance. The goal is to fill the block/manifold with a high concentration on antifreeze. Unless the water is removed by removing the plugs and draining, you will have a diluted solution.

Here is what I do on my Merc 7.4L. Remove all 5 drain plugs; one on each riser extention, one one each side of the block, and the one on the oil/power steering cooler. I disconnect the hoses to the manifolds and let the lower hose drain (unhook them by the thermostat housing). Pour antifreeze into the lower hose until antifreeze comes out of the upper hose (which is also disconnected). This takes care of the exhaust manifolds. I then pour antifreeze into the big hose from the the water pump or remove the themostat and pour in antifreeze. It takes about 6 gallons to do the manifolds and block. A small block will need less, perhaps only 4 gallons.
Its important to keep tract how much antifreeze you pour into the block/manifolds. If you pour less than what is required, that means you didn't get all the water out and the antifreeze is not going to protect as much as its labled for.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mandm1200

quote:
Originally posted by cwms

I helped my son do his 5.7 IO Merc last year. Took out the thermostat. Took a short 2' hose and connected it to ear muffs, put a funnel in the other end. Started the motor while I poured 3 gallons on antifreeze into the funnel. Engine and outdrive now have plenty of AF in them. The last 10 seconds or so of running the engine, we sprayed fogger into the carb.
I live by the KISS principal - Keep It Simple, Stupid.

Click to expand...


Unless you drained the block and exhaust manifolds, you are taking a BIG chance. The goal is to fill the block/manifold with a high concentration on antifreeze. Unless the water is removed by removing the plugs and draining, you will have a diluted solution.

Here is what I do on my Merc 7.4L. Remove all 5 drain plugs; one on each riser extention, one one each side of the block, and the one on the oil/power steering cooler. I disconnect the hoses to the manifolds and let the lower hose drain (unhook them by the thermostat housing). Pour antifreeze into the lower hose until antifreeze comes out of the upper hose (which is also disconnected). This takes care of the exhaust manifolds. I then pour antifreeze into the big hose from the the water pump or remove the themostat and pour in antifreeze. It takes about 6 gallons to do the manifolds and block. A small block will need less, perhaps only 4 gallons.
Its important to keep tract how much antifreeze you pour into the block/manifolds. If you pour less than what is required, that means you didn't get all the water out and the antifreeze is not going to protect as much as its labled for.

Click to expand...


Been winterizing my boats for 16 years. So far, no problems.
 
quote:
Been winterizing my boats for 16 years. So far, no problems.

Click to expand...

What ever works for you. Sounds like you been doing it the correct way for VA. I would not winterize in PA without draining the water first. There are many way ways to winterize engines. Some of it depends on how cold it gets and how long it stays cold. A 50-50 mixture would probably be ok here as in VA as the temps seldom get to 0*. Removing the plugs only take a few more minutes. I feel much safer knowing that an unusal cold spell will not pose a problem. Having the engine protected closer to -40* is much better than one at 0*. Cost is almost the same; just a few more minutes in the procedure
 
I'm in VA and I always drain my block. Isn't it better to get the water out, not only for a stronger concentration of the antifreeze... the water in the block is not distilled so it has minerals in it... isn't it better to get all that out so it doesn't scale up the block over the years? The antifreeze is there to help preserve the block from rusting I would rather not have the water in it over the winter myself. Just my thought on draining it.
 
50/50 is good to minus 34 degrees F. That should be more than adequate for anywhere in CONUS. CWMS's method of removing the thermostats virtually insures that hes getting a good mix of antifreeze and water in the block. Doesn't hurt to open a block drain and test it though. Personally, I sleep better draining and backfilling. If our marine blocks freeze with 50/50, we'll have a hard time finding out because our car blocks will all be frozen and cracked too, then we can't drive to the marina!!!!!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Gregory Saracco

50/50 is good to minus 34 degrees F.
Click to expand...

The question is what concentration of antifreeze was pumped in. If it were pure antifreeze, then the -34* sounds reasonable. If pink was used, which is already diluted, then the protection in not even close to -34*. Mixing a couple gallons of pink, 2-3, with a block full of water will yield closer to a 25% of antifreeze. That mixture is good for about +16* degrees protection. A dip below that for a couple of hours is not a big deal as it takes time for it to freeze. In my opinion, you want to protect the engine for the worst case senario. Draining the block and manifolds and filling up will provide substancial protection.
 
Fuel cell on my 5.7 has water flowing thru and I need to pull that hose as well. (model with throttlebody) I think it comes from the manifold. Also make sure the heater hose to the hot water heater is drained.(if your boat is equiped with one)
 
I think drain and refill is the only safe way. If you do the bucket of mix via muffs and one year the thermostat does not open as expected then your are screwed.

There is also no need to pull the thermostats on 5.7L GM engines and the like, as just pouring 2 - 2.5 gallons of AF down the big hose will fill the block. In my engine pulling the thermostat is a pain as its held in by brass sleeve that costs more than thermostat and gets ruined when removing it.

I drain the manifolds and risers risers by removing the bottom hose (not a drain plug) and let it drain. If you have a HW heater, I pull that hose and blow through it with all drains open. Also the intake hose from outdrive to engine needs to be pulled and AF poured down it until one see AF come out the intake holes in outdrive. There is a cooler (PS or oil, cannot remember) inline with that hose and if you see AF come out of outdrive, you are done.
 
On my 4.3 to fill with AF it's not necessary to pull out the thermostat...you disconnect the big hose from the thermo housing...pour AF in the hose till it pushes the residual water out the drains...then replace the drain plugs (if metal coat with grease) and fill the engine till AF starts to come out the thermo housing..then reconnect the hose...I fill the manifolds the same way....fill till it runs out the exhaust...
When I start up my engine in the spring I get no rust out the exhaust like some engines stored dry do...so you know this way you are getting less rust....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top