Antifreeze?

Nauset- air doesn't freeze in our temps,but the metal inside your engine is not protected from rusting with nothing in their and that causes a whole other set of problems.
Alan
 
Just want to confirm that I am going to do this correct...
1).Open 4 drains on engine and drain water..
2).Use a piece of wire to make sure drains are not blocked with sand when they quit draining...Tighten drains when water quits running out...
3).Remove power steering cooler hose to drain water from it...
4).Hook power steering cooler hose back up...
5).Remove thermostat...
6).Hook up a container with anti-freeze on the swim platform with a hose going from the container to the muffs placed over the water intake on the outdrive...
7).Use 5 gallons of anti-freeze mixed to -40 and run engine untill anti-freeze comes out the exhaust...
8).Fog engine and shut it down...
9).Worry all winter about if I did it correct..
 
Why don't you back fill through the hoses? If you are removing the thermostat you could just pour the antifreeze into the block that way. Then back fill through the hoses to the manifolds.
 
Does anyone know the amount of AF a 5.0 small block requires? I was thinking 5 gallons for some reason. Am I close?
 
Very easy to back fill through the hoses, with no worry about if the impeller will suck up AF or not, or if the thermo is open or not. You don't actually have to remove the thermostat when you backfill, I disconnect the big hose from the thermo housing to the water pump on the front of the engine, at the thermo housing, fill thru the hose (still connected at the water pump end) till some AF comes out of each block drain, replace drains, and then fill till it appears at the thermo housing, takes about 2-3 gallons of AF that way. I fill the manifolds till it just starts to spill out the exhaust. Same thing with the raw water intake hose. Make sure you clean up any AF on the ground even if it's no tox. I use the -100 so I don't have to worry about the possibility of trapped water, or if we get an unusually cold winter. I've done it this way for the past 5 seasons and the thermo housing I replaced in 2003 has very little rust for a salt water motor, so I do think it helps.

PS the first year I tried the suck up the AF, hope the thermo is open method, checked the block drains and found not much AF in there, so drained the block and backfilled, that's why I've always done it that way since then.
 
Thats the way I usualy do it, so I guess I will keep doing it that way...I just thought the other way would be easier...
 
Might be easier but if you do exactly what Lou says, you'll sleep better all winter. I backfill also because I was also surprised about how little anti-freeze was actually in the block after sucking anti-freeze up with the engine running and at temp. Unfortuneately, with my Crusaders, I can't just backfill through the hoses, I have to fill via the thermostat housing.
 
Propylene glycol AF (not pink) like Sierra or Prestone's Low-Tox gives me the -25°F protection I'm comfortable with at a 50/50 mix & is much more environmentally friendly. It's not considered non-toxic because of the additives....rust inhibitors & water pump lubricant.
 
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