Barrier coat after Pettit Horizon bottom paint??

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Lars42

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I have a new Bayliner 195 that apparently comes with some sort of barrier coat from the factory. The marina I purchased it from included sandblasting and 2 coats of Pettit Horizon bottom paint in the price of the boat. The job looks good, and none of the paint looked even the slightest bit worn after the first season. The boat sits in the water in the St. Joseph river near Lake Michigan.

Should I apply an exterior barrier coat? Can I sand down the bottom paint a little and apply a barrier coat and then fresh bottom paint on top?

Thanks all - this is my first fiberglass hull and I/O powerplant, so still learning all the tricks.

Lars
 
No, barier coat would need to be applied to bare fiberglass. Doesn't sound right that a marina would sanblast a new hull with no buildup of several years worth of anti-fouling paint. Do you mean they sanded the hull before they applied the antifouling paint? I would speak with bayliner to be sure sanding didn't void any hull blister warranty you have.
 
My understanding is they lightly sandblasted the gelcoat to rough it up before applying the bottom paint - similar to sanding with an orbital but perhaps less labor to complete? The bottom paint does appear to be sticking quite well. The Bayliner specs for the boat indicate that a vinyl-ester barrier coat is sprayed between the fiberglass and the outer gelcoat during production. I guess this will provide protection to the fiberglass, but not the gelcoat. I've read in other posts here about an interlux 2 part epoxy barrier coat that can be rolled onto the hull - that's what started me thinking about the option.

Thanks,

Lars
 
The gelcoat will be alright without the barrier coat...it's the raction between the fiberglass and water that causes the blisters, so they manufature the boat to protect the fiberglass from coming in contact with water. If you want to put an additional (and un-needed) barrier coat on, you'll need to remove all of the paint to bare gelcoat and start the process from scratch.
 
I' really not sure what "lightly sandblasted" means. That would worry me.
 
RamSport - thanks for the insight. I'll leave well enough alone and make sure the bottom paint is well maintained.

Gregory - yeah, that worries me a little too. Things are so much clearer with the wooden boat - about 30-40 new copper rivets each spring, recaulk 33% of the seams, scrap and new bottom paint each year, and 3 bildge pumps to keep it afloat.

Thanks for all your help - great forums!!

Lars
 
Lars, could you post a picture of that Snekke? That's a double-ended lapstrake hull like a Viking boat, isn't it? I'd love to see it.

Our batten-seamed Chris-Craft is kept in fresh to brackish water all of the time and the bottom isn't that much trouble. Haul out for fresh bottom paint every three years. I did Sikaflex seam caulking 10 years ago and have replaced maybe four feet of seam since then. The bilge pumps will run only after I take it out after a month of inactivity.
 
yzer - you are correct. 23' lapstrake double-ender. It was built in Flekkefjord, Norway which is about 2 hrs south of my father's home town of Stavanger. My father and I have visited the shop where the boat was built and have brought over an apprentice of the original builder for 2 weeks here in the states to advise us on the replacement of the enginer timbers and a few other key items.

The laps are hand-pounded copper rivets with a cotton yarn in between to keep some of the water out. Our boat spent it's first 20 years getting battered against a pier off Cape Cod, so we are still in the process of replacing planks - about 2 a year now. In our original rebuild we replaced about 20 ribs, half dozen or so planks, all of the topside except the fore and aft decks, and all of the interior.

The motor was new when we bought the boat (for the price of the motor more or less) and is a Sabb 12hp diesel - 750cc, single cylinder, crank start (electric for our lazy days), and 1 liter per hour at a 6 knot cruise.

The boat is moored up in Pentwater, MI, so it suffers the indignity of going on the trailer each winter to dry to a crisp. It takes about a week of sprinklers to soak it up enough to float in the spring. Once fully soaked the main pump runs for about 20 seconds every half hour or so. The cross beams of the shore station are never more than 3 or 4 inches below the keel if we have to leave it alone for a week or two. This past season the float switch failed and the shorestation saved us from a big mess!

If I get this right, a picture should follow.



And a typical winter project...



Good luck with the Chris Craft. There's a wooden boat show each year up here at the Pentwater Yacht Club and it's always wall-to-wall runabouts.

http://www.fios.org/roseman/pyc/events/2007/wooden_boat_show/toner/resized/pyc_photos.htm

Lars
 
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