Boat trailer brands

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ddurand

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Looking to buy a boat trailer for a Chaparral Signature 270.

Need an aluminum one for salt water usage. My short list is LoadRite and Venture. Getting a bunk trailer since the boat is on the heavy side. There are many options to choose also.

Any other brands to consider?

My 3/4 ton pickup has a brake controller so I am considering electric over hydraulics. Is it worth the extra cost as a option,?
 
I converted my trailer to electric over hydraulics back in 2017 before I started trailering my 5500-6000# center console to Florida from Ohio. I choose to use a drum brake setup because I already had them on one axle and I had them added to the other axle. Florida has a brake on all wheels if over 3K pounds requirement. I changed out the surge coupler to fixed and mounted a HydraStar actuator on the tongue. The systems works great. I did the conversion because of the long distance towing and the extra safety it provided

Good luck
Niles
 
quote:
Originally posted by PatSea

Check Loadmaster

Click to expand...


There appears to be two with same name. One in FL and one in Ohio. The one in Ohio does not make Aluminum trailers.
 
I prefer the torsion axles due to rusting of the leaf springs. However, I'm sure the torsion ones will fail at some point so not sure it's a valid argument.
My only suggestion is to go with all stainless bolts, nuts, brackets, etc.
 
Something else which came to mind, when I had mine made 4 years ago I also had them include a beefed up bracket for the fenders such that they won't vibrate and I can step anywhere on them without fear of collapse/bending.
 
I’ve never had torsion axles, but if I ever buy another trailer, I will absolutely get them. As mentioned, the leaf springs eventually rust and break, so not the best option in salt water. And what I like most about them is that you can replace just the spindle, instead of an entire axle. Nice to have, as the spindles take a beating from use. When I finally replaced the axles on my 20 year old loadrite, it had gotten to the point that I was losing a bearing per year on the road; I assume salt water was getting in around the scored spindle and causing the damage. With torsions, if I ever lose a bearing, I will just replace the spindle - to avoid my fate of the same wheel eating up bearings. While some of the leaf spring trailers do have replaceable spindles, it doesn’t seem to be the norm. while I could cut mine off, and weld new ones on - not really a viable option.

I can’t imagine getting by without rollers; but that’s because the ramp I use most weekends is pretty short. At anything but high tide, would not be able to get my boat off, or on, a bunk trailer.

My Dutton -Lainson electric winch is the best purchase I have ever made in my life. I never realized how much work it was, cranking the boat up the rollers, until I put the electric one on. I bought it after the owner of the ramp I used saw me huffing and puffing as I cranked my boat out, and warned me that his father had a heart attack doing the same with his boat!
 
quote:
Originally posted by alk

I’ve never had torsion axles, but if I ever buy another trailer, I will absolutely get them. As mentioned, the leaf springs eventually rust and break, so not the best option in salt water. And what I like most about them is that you can replace just the spindle, instead of an entire axle. Nice to have, as the spindles take a beating from use. When I finally replaced the axles on my 20 year old loadrite, it had gotten to the point that I was losing a bearing per year on the road; I assume salt water was getting in around the scored spindle and causing the damage. With torsions, if I ever lose a bearing, I will just replace the spindle - to avoid my fate of the same wheel eating up bearings. While some of the leaf spring trailers do have replaceable spindles, it doesn’t seem to be the norm. while I could cut mine off, and weld new ones on - not really a viable option.

I can’t imagine getting by without rollers; but that’s because the ramp I use most weekends is pretty short. At anything but high tide, would not be able to get my boat off, or on, a bunk trailer.

My Dutton -Lainson electric winch is the best purchase I have ever made in my life. I never realized how much work it was, cranking the boat up the rollers, until I put the electric one on. I bought it after the owner of the ramp I used saw me huffing and puffing as I cranked my boat out, and warned me that his father had a heart attack doing the same with his boat!

Click to expand...


One can get poly material on top of the bunks and it allows the boat to slide off more easily. Storage of a heavy boat on rollers can cause divots.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Ware

I prefer the torsion axles due to rusting of the leaf springs. However, I'm sure the torsion ones will fail at some point so not sure it's a valid argument.
My only suggestion is to go with all stainless bolts, nuts, brackets, etc.

Click to expand...


I read an article (not from a trailer manufacturer) and they did not recommend torsion axles for multiple axle or heavy trailers. Torsion axles are not forgiving if you run over a curb and if you hit a speed bump or pot hole a single axle will hold all the weight for a split second with no equalizing to the other axle.
 
quote:
Originally posted by alk

I’ve never had torsion axles, but if I ever buy another trailer, I will absolutely get them. As mentioned, the leaf springs eventually rust and break, so not the best option in salt water. And what I like most about them is that you can replace just the spindle, instead of an entire axle. Nice to have, as the spindles take a beating from use. When I finally replaced the axles on my 20 year old loadrite, it had gotten to the point that I was losing a bearing per year on the road; I assume salt water was getting in around the scored spindle and causing the damage. With torsions, if I ever lose a bearing, I will just replace the spindle - to avoid my fate of the same wheel eating up bearings. While some of the leaf spring trailers do have replaceable spindles, it doesn’t seem to be the norm. while I could cut mine off, and weld new ones on - not really a viable option.

I can’t imagine getting by without rollers; but that’s because the ramp I use most weekends is pretty short. At anything but high tide, would not be able to get my boat off, or on, a bunk trailer.

My Dutton -Lainson electric winch is the best purchase I have ever made in my life. I never realized how much work it was, cranking the boat up the rollers, until I put the electric one on. I bought it after the owner of the ramp I used saw me huffing and puffing as I cranked my boat out, and warned me that his father had a heart attack doing the same with his boat!

Click to expand...


they sell a SS sleeve and seal (that fits the sleeve). The sleeve becomes the sealing surface rather than the spindle.
 
My boat is 3300 lbs, so what works for me may not apply to a 27ft cruiser. I‘Ve been sitting on the same rollers since 99 though, and no divots. And it’s a wellcraft hull, so probably not built all that sturdy. I’ve seen the Teflon strips for the bunks. Will they really let a boat slide off, that is not at all lifted? When I get to the ramp at low tide, boat is barely touching the water, with zero lift.

I‘Ve used the bearing buddy spindle savers - they probably helped, but after the axle gets scorched when a bearing goes, it’s all downhill. I don’t know what went wrong with my original axles - first 15 years I never had a problem, then five straight years, lost at least one wheel in transit every summer. I finally replaced the axles ( and springs), which was an expensive and time consuming job - but hopefully I’ll be set for another 15 years of only regular maintenance,
 
alk, I can see that happening after any amount of scoring on the spindle. In the 27 years with my galvanized trailer I replaced springs twice which was a real pain. I had the bearing buddies as well but I discovered (after loosing a couple) was that once you remove one to remove the hub you may as well replace the bearing buddy. Any time I removed one it would always fall out when towing any distance at all.

As for the Teflon strips, I don't use them but have seen quite a few trailers with them and the boats do slide off easily. Once, at a ramp where everyone generally unhooks their boat before backing down due to shallow slope and the boat slid off before getting to the water. Fortunately, motor was tilted up and only slight damage to the hull.

I don't know about the article regarding the torsion axles being a problem with multiple axles. These days, I'm guessing the majority of the trailers around here use them and I've never heard/read complaints about their use.

One other thing I prefer is stainless disc brakes. Had them for many years on my old galvanized trailers and now on my aluminum on. No rusting. I would have to replace my old drum brake assemblies at best every three years but never replaced the stainless disc assemblies, just pads.
 
I don’t love the spindle savers, because instead of repacking the bearing every year, I prefer to buy a new hub with pre-greased bearing, and rear seal installed. If you have the spindle savers on the back, you have to put a different size rear seal in - and it’s not a common size that can be found at any store - it’s specific to the spindle savers part. They do allow you to continue using a scored up spindle. But I’d like to be able to swap out just the spindle instead. Based on my experience, that in itself is enough reason to give torsion axles a shot. Of course if they don’t support the weight, that’s a problem!

I’ve never spent the money on stainless brakes, but wish I would have.
 
What about the rims for a trailer that will see salt water? I can choose between galv and aluminum.
 
rims, I'd for sure choose galvanized vs aluminum
axles, I prefer spring axles, much cheaper to replace, when you install new leaf springs, put some nibrile gloves on, get a tub of OMC/Evinrude triple guard grease and coat them all over and try to force it between the leaves. That will make them last a lot longer, I've been doing this for years. Yearly after I install them I spray them with Corrosion X. Current set is at least 8 years old.
 
I prefer galvanized as well. I've read reports of aluminum rims constantly leaking air although I have no personal knowledge of it happening. But, I've never had such a problem with galvanized rims on three trailers over a 40 year period.
 
I have aluminum rims (4) on my trailer. Very little leakage throughout the season and when over the winter lay up I lose 8 to 10 pounds. They are surprisingly consistent.

Padraig
 
I had a venture bunk trailer and had nothing but problems. Too many to list!!! Eventually switched to a loadrite and love it. None of the headaches or problems!
 
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