Cabin Heater - 310 Santego

jeb

Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2009
RO Number
31900
Messages
11
Finally took the plunge and installed a forced air diesel/kerosene heater. Thought I'd share the experience so far.

I went ahead and purchased a Russian made heater (Planar) which is 13K BTU. It looks like a copy cat of the Espar unit...we'll see how it lasts. But it was only $500 - so a heck of a lot cheaper than the other brands. My only gripe so far is that the control panel is rather cryptic to operate (non intuitive) which I can deal with being a techie, but the wife is going to find it a little bit of a learning curve. Mode status is just an array of LEDs that are not labeled, but you have to memorize (ok, there are only two modes, power and temperature set; but you have to memorize which LED represents what) and the other fact that everything is in Celsius instead of Fahrenheit.

Since I have twin Gas 305's...I needed to deal with the separate fuel tank and wanted to keep it out of the engine compartment given I have Gasoline. I found the best place to install everything is up in fly bridge.

On the Starboard side of the fly bridge, there is a shelf made from fiberglass that is built-in to the wall. I removed that and there was just enough space to place the heater in that location.
cutout.jpg


I had to build a shelf for the heater to mount to. I used a piece of 16g aluminum which was bolted down to floor. The heater was mounted so that the supply air and the exhaust went forward; while the cold air & intake (for heat chamber) went towards the stern.

Here is what it looks like mounted:
heater.jpg


In order to get it down to the cabin, I need to drill a 4.5" hole with a right angle drill to get the 4" supply ducting down. I drilled the hole right behind the Power Control panel inside the cabin (there was enough room to run it there and place ample insulation around the entire ducting.

Once inside the cabin (behind the electrical panel) I used a couple of adjustable elbows to make the turn into the side of the cabinet inside the cabin. I used another elbow instead of the cabinet to go down behind the seat to get down in the bilge area below the seats. From there it was a piece of cake to T-off and add two hot air vents in the cabin and one in the bath room.

while I was at it, I drilled another hole going down behind the panel to mount the heater control and the temperature sensor.
control.jpg


Then came the intake and exhaust for the combustion chamber. That was fairly easy. I had to pick up some better heat rated insulation, since what came with the Planar kit was not adequate and a trip to West Marine to get some better 3/4" hose for the intake. Additionally, I had to pick up a an exhaust thru-hull fitting. When starting the heater and running for an hour, the insulation works very well; as I can actually hold my hand on the insulation of the exhaust pipe. As extra insurance, I placed a piece of concrete backer board on the bottom of the floor below the heater as a heat shield. It doesn't even get hot, but I wanted extra insurance to have a heat blocker between the heater and various wiring that traveled along the floor.

Here is a picture of the intake and exhaust on the outside of the boat.
intake-exhaust.jpg


As far as the fuel tank, I placed that and the fuel pump under the forward guest seat on the fly bridge. Since the fuel pump makes a ticking noise, this does help to dampen this and it keeps the fuel tank separate from the heater area and is easily accessible.

The only thing I have left is to fabricate a cover for heater and include a cold air vent with a filter. My idea was to be able to suck fresh air from the outside (or at least from the flybridge) and supply that to the cabin.

It was a lot of work (more than I expected) to get this thing mounted in here and to get the duct work routed through the boat. Now I understand why boat yards charge so much for the install...

But it seems to work really well on heating the boat and the bathroom is nice and toasty. The heater is rated to run Highway diesel, but I've only ran Kerosene in it so far. So there has not been any smell to speak of. The only smell has been the initial heat smell with all the new parts (including the heat insulation around the exhaust pipe which gives off an odor for the first few hours of initial operation).

We'll see how this heater holds up to use.

Just thought I'd share this process since it seems like there is not a lot of heater install experiences shared on the internet...especially for Carvers.
 
You might want to resize those photos. Most of us don't have 40" computer monitors.
 
Nice job and a great price. I don't know what Tiger Paws paid for his.

You could always laminate a conversion/translation chart and fasten it next to the Tstat.
 
quote:

Originally posted by KiDa

Nice job and a great price. I don't know what Tiger Paws paid for his.

You could always laminate a conversion/translation chart and fasten it next to the Tstat.






I thought about doing that. I'll probably do that in the weeks to come.

In the meantime, I'm trying to look into fabricating the cover for the heater and get that buttoned up.

I'm curious to those that run Webasto, Espar, or other heaters...Have you guys noticed a big difference between running Kerosene vs. Diesel? I.e. for the ones made to run Diesel...have you noticed anything running Kerosene? Does it run cooler? (less BTU output)? Less maintenance issues? I imagine less smell...

-J
 
I just wanted to give an update now after having the heater installed for several months.

It works good and does what its supposed to do. I switched from Kerosene to Diesel for several months and I do notice outside by the exhaust port a little bit more smell; but not bad.

I did have an issue last month with the heater. I had the heater running pretty much straight for two days (just a power down for about half an hour for a refuel when the tank was empty). I'm not sure what the problem was (it was smoking out the exhaust port and it was leaking out some raw diesel out of the exhaust port when I restarted the heater. I even waited a full day and restarted the heater with the same result. I'm not sure what the heck was wrong (I'd think it was the glow plug, but it should have thrown an error code);I called Autoterm that sold it and they shipped me out a replacement.I have the say the support was really good and they took care of me. Put the new heater in and been running it for a few hours now; will see how it does in this cold weather.

-J
 
Hi
My Trojan 440 came with an Espar hotwater heater. It has worked pretty good over the years. I was told that kerosene was the way to go and spent some time and effort to install a tank, did not work well and switched back to diesel. I just installed a programable thermostat in line with the origional thermostat and that works great. The unit is left on and the origional thermostat set at full high. I see some heaters are noisy, mine has a muffler and that keeps the exhaust quite.
 
Is this a gas powered boat? Looks like if it is you are still ok since any ignition is happening
in the unit up on the flydridge. I'm interseted on other's takes on this type of heater installation
on a gas powered boat. Looks like an A+++ project well done and thought out.
Bill
 
quote:

Originally posted by Billylll

Is this a gas powered boat? Looks like if it is you are still ok since any ignition is happening
in the unit up on the flydridge. I'm interseted on other's takes on this type of heater installation
on a gas powered boat. Looks like an A+++ project well done and thought out.
Bill






Sorry about the delayed response, been a while since on this forum.

Yes it is a Gas powered boat. That is why I did not have the heating system any where near the engine compartment. Its up in the flybridge area for this reason. As mentioned with the first post, I pulled out the little cabinet/shelf that I wasn't using. Its made out of fiberglass - so I was able to use a jig saw and cut out the frame to reuse that - but the shelf component was removed as it was recessed. That recessed section is where I built the aluminum mount for the heater assembly.

I bought a piece of starboard as a cover and put 2 air vent covers. This allows the heater to suck fresh area (a.k.a. in HVAC speak "cold air return") from the flybridge area. I did this for two reasons: 1. I wanted positive air pressure so that the bugs would stay outside the cabin if I had the sliding door or windows open. 2. It was a pain in the rear to cut/drill another 5" hole and plumb it down into the cabin.

If #2 was not such a problem, I'd probably have a damper/valve so I could switch the cold air return from fresh air to recirculate...but that would be the ideal scenario.

If this was a Diesel engine Then I could have placed the heater closer to engine compartment and tapped off the fuel tank. But given the situation with the Gasoline engines, I wanted it to be completely separate (as is stated in installation manuals for all of these heaters no matter which brand) and still be able to plumb the supply air (Heat) to the cabin.

I do want to say, we had some cold weather in Portland a few months back. Water splashing onto the dock was Ice/frozen and it was dipping down into the mid 20's F at night. The heater worked perfectly. I left it on half power all through the night and maybe used a gallon of Kerosene and it kept the cabin at 70.

-J
 
Back
Top