Changing Sanitation Hoses - how big of a job?

M

margaritaville

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I'm pretty sure we need to change our hoses - don't think they've ever been done (boat is a 1999), and I did the stink test last year and the cloth came back DISGUSTING.

How big of a job is this (for us rookies)? Something we could do ourselves, and if so, what is required?

Or should we save the aggravation and pay the fine folks at the marina to do it.
 
If you can get to all the hoses easily, it is a DIY job. Make sure you flush out the system and tank a few times before you start.

Get the best quality hose you can to replace what you have. Heating the ends of the hoses before fitting them on connections makes the job easier.
 
We've been running 1 1/2 PVC only using hose to connect to the heads.
 
It is DIY. The potential for it being nasty also means that the "pros" will charge a fortune for the job.

As HOGAN states, flush out the system throughly. I would use cheap white vinegar for the last system flush. ( helps control odor )

The hoses can be quite stiff, so you will want an electric heat gun ( or hair dryer ) to soften the hose when needed.

You will also want to lube the hose and barbed hose fittings. Use "water soluble personal lubricant" from the drugstore.

If odor becomes an issue, place a small peas sized glob of vaporub on your upper lip. It helps.

Some patience and persistence is required. try to do a perfect job, as repairing a faulty install can be miserable.
 
If you have access to both ends easily, you can connect the new to the old as you pull the old out. The hardest part is reconnecting and you need to have super strong hands or friends with super strong hands to get the fittings together. Using some liquid dish soap or just about anything to lubricate the fittings and heating up the hose will make it much easier. It's a piece of cake after that! As you pull the old hose out, use some plugs to make sure you don't leave a line of ick tracing the path the hose took! If you attach to the new hose to the old hose, make sure nothing leaks at the joint and plug the end of the new hose. I only have two hoses on the 250 DA so it was very easy. The 300 DA is a little trickier, but it's still just two hoses that need to be replaced.
 
The $15 hardware store heat gun will be your best friend. Use it to soften hose ends prior to removal or attachment. I never had to use lube with a heat gun handy. Double clamp those hoses. You can find all-stainless hose clamps a lot cheaper at the hardware stores than the marine shops. Same goes for nylon or ABS hose fittings. Some of the hardware stores will stock Shields white sanitation hose cheap, but if want better you'll want to hit the marine stores.
 
This is one job that I have no desire to perform, and I'd pay for regardless of cost ;-)

DIY has it's limits!
 
Vic

I looked at the pdf of the link you posted and each brand listed claims "superior" odor resistance with one offering a lifetime warranty against odor permeation. Which brand would you suggest for the longest possible life without odor?
 
#1, Shields Poly X
#2, SeaLand Odor-Safe

The best sanitation hose that is (currently) available in the U.S. is Trident 101 or 102 (both are the same hose, just different colors), but BoatFix doesn't carry them. However, both listed above are excellent quality.
 
how bad it is depends on how good the access is... if you can reach the hose, including all the clamps that the builder may have used before they put the floors in... it's easy.

but one bulkhead penetration that's beyond arm reach can bring the hole thing to a screetchy halt.
 
Thanks for all your help. I'll look around this weekend and see how easy the access to the ends are...I think the pumpout to tank hose should be easy to access - I don't know about the vent hose though....do I even need to change that one?
 
Do it right change every hose. I would recommend installing a filter on your new vent hose.
Bill
 
If you can't get to the vent, I wouldn't worry as much about that one unless you get to full and "use" the vent. If it's just air and you've never had anything in the vent hose, it's probably OK.
 
I did the job on my old boat 6 years ago. Lot's of good tips here. The one thing that was a PITA, and I had not counted on, is the manufacturer wired tied the hose under the sole in some spots that were impossible to reach making it near impossible to rip the hose out. They often seem to disregard about how the owner will get to things down the road for repairs and maintenance (and this was a well respected quality boat builder). I didn't expect that complexity. Otherwise, it was not too difficult.....definitely bring a good supply of rubber gloves and old clothes.
 
checked this weekend and it appears the hose is cable tied - most I can reach but if they have cable tied where I can't see (let alone reach) - guessing this is a job for the pros
 
If you're going to "do it yourself" on your boat, regardless of the project, I recommend purchasing a 48" lighted boroscope off ebay....It let's you see around those corners, underneath that floor, down inside the tanks, and even inside the engine....they'll go up to about $400, worth every penny, but if you are patient you can get one for under $200....

By the way, the local yard quoted me $2500 to replace hoses...said it would need 50 ft. on a 32' boat....guess what length a roll comes in..??..I did it myself with 18' of hose, a couple of days work, and the project came in under $300 bucks....
 
I just did the hoses on my boat this weekend. I am still bruised and have more cuts and scraps on my hands and arms, then I care to think about. Over all the job was not to bad, it took me about 3 hours, I had to drill to 5' holes in the cabin deck. Regal was nice enough to put to 90 degree bends back to back, thru 2 holes in hte bulk heads, that were only big enough to get the hoses thru. Once I drill the holes, it worked out ok. The other problem I had, was the fittings they used were the grey PVC fittings, and the new hose did not fit on to well. even with boiling the ends of the hose, I could only gedt it on abot 3/8 of an inch. I will have to get new nylon fittings, and replace the ones that were there. ( I had to get the head working again, the family was on there way to the boat.)

Two pieces of advice, First make sure you can fish the hose thru with out connecting it to the old fitting and pulling it thru. There may be a bend or a hole that you can not get the fitting thru. Second, make sure you empty and flush the holding tank first. I emptied the tank then filled it with fresh water 3 times before I unhooked any hose. when you are flushing the tank out, make sure you flush the toliet several times, so the line from the toilet to the tank only has fresh water in it.
 
Buy rubber expansion plugs for the hose ends when you pull the old ones out... Trust me its worth it..
 
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