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Chrysler 318s
- Thread starter BillM2
- Start date
Thanks Bruce. It's related to t-stats temps and whether or not 1.) I should install 140 degree stats and 2.) which auto stat would work as marine versions are priced in the $85 range (no kidding). See thread I started here:
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...ca-1970s-318-t-stat-temps&p=340134#post340134
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...ca-1970s-318-t-stat-temps&p=340134#post340134
I'm guessing they are raw water cooled. right? I'm also guessing that you are in fresh water. Marine stuff maybe made of different metal but I doubt it for many reasons. What can go wrong with an auto version? I would use the auto version and check them every year for a while when you winterize.
As for temperature In fresh water warmer would be better. Low temp is required for salt water. But after all these years why not keep on doing what you have been doing since it seems to work well.
As for temperature In fresh water warmer would be better. Low temp is required for salt water. But after all these years why not keep on doing what you have been doing since it seems to work well.
I've worked a little on auto/truck 318s. Not sure I can offer much, but let me ask... Are your marine engines the small block 318, aka 5.2, or the older big block 318? Unfortunate in a way that MoPar had the same displacement in two different block series but they did, and it can complicate parts and service. I don't know if the big block had a "name" but if I recall the small block was called "LA" series and came out in 273, 318, 340 and 360 displacements. I believe 318 was first.
Though the boat initially had a salt water life 40 years ago, it's been in fresh water for more than 15 years. So, it has the higher temp stats. But, I'd like to take it south to LI this summer for a couple of weeks and am concerned about clogging things up.
The engines are LM 318s and are raw water cooled.
The engines are LM 318s and are raw water cooled.
probably a good idea to use cold temps then. How long you can run in salt and still have it dissolve later in fresh I dont know.
It probably doesn't make any real difference in performance if you stay at 140. The oil temps will get hotter than that to burn off water in the lube oil areas and neither temp will do anything to help carb icing.
IMO use the cheap 140s and don’t worry.
It probably doesn't make any real difference in performance if you stay at 140. The oil temps will get hotter than that to burn off water in the lube oil areas and neither temp will do anything to help carb icing.
IMO use the cheap 140s and don’t worry.
I think though the engine's performance is not as good at lower temps than higher ones. I went to Napa this morning and gave the counter guy a Chrysler part number I found being referenced by an online catalogue. The'll have it for me In a day or so and will install and check its performance against the other engine. The Napa stat costs $12 vs $80 for one being offered online.