Claw anchor set

C

Comfortably Numb

Member
exMember
Joined
Jan 9, 2008
RO Number
29205
Messages
283
Over my years of boating I have always used Danforth anchors and had great luck. I usually go one size up, and at least a boat lenght of chain and get sets almost all the time. A few months back I replaced my 22 lb danforth with a 22lb claw, on a 32' flybridge, and have had a terrible time getting it to set. I follow all the rules, usually let it touch down and start a slow reverse ( I put in a windlass last week) while I let out rode, but can't usually get a set. Is there anything different about setting a claw?

Another interesting note, I have noticed that the chain has a lot of twist to it as it comes up - do claw anchors have a habit of "twirling"
as they come up, or is it my new anchor rode maybe having a twist? I have 40 ft of 5/16 chain and new 5/8 rode.

Thanks,
Jim
 
I'm having trouble picturing what a claw anchor is. Are you talking about a Bruce style anchor, or a traditional "Kedge" anchor, like the Navy uses?. I suppose we could throw in the classic Grapnel type anchor. They all have claws to a certain extent.

The Danforth, CQR and Bruce work well in sand, mud and clay bottoms. The heavy Kedge anchor is reported to work well in weed bottoms. The grapnel is used for hooking equipment that may have fallen overboard.

You can get an anchor rode swivel from most chandleries. I would try to figure out why the anchor is spinning.

Remember the basics of Anchoring. You need a good length of chain and enough anchor rode to set most anchors. They say you should have a 7 to 1 scope on the anchor line. Even 5 to 1 is better than most put out.

Frequently, you see a boat pull up, the owner tosses a fluke anchor over the side, then tie off the anchor with the line going straight down. The anchor has to be sitting on it's back, flukes pointing to the surface. It would never hold.

It seems like most of the boats at the marinas have a CQR on board. I've tried one and I like it. The only problem I had with anchoring in general is in shallow, weed choked waters. We needed a heavier anchor to penetrate the weeds. In heavy weeds, there is no substitute for weight.

Anchor.gif
 
Monterey10,

I am pretty good at the basics - scope, setting etc., but for some reason I just seem to have trouble with this one. It is similar to the one you posted but does not have the hinge at the base. Here is a link to the anchor

http://www.boatersland.com/lewclaw.html

I do think a swivel is in order and I will probably pick one up next trip.

Hey, you're in Capitola - I love that area. We have a family cabin in Felton and get down there pretty regular. Beautifull coastline!

Thanks for the response. If I don't get it to work as well as I think, it might become my backup and the danforth will go back on! I replaced it because the bar across the front of the danforth is wider than my bow pulpit and can catch on my dock support poles when I back out of my slip and makes it a bit tricky.

Jim
 
FWIW, I've had the Lewmar Plow (CQR) recommended to me the most often over the past couple of weeks for effectiveness in the Delta. When I get one, I'll need to chose between my Danforth & Bruce for the stern.
 
The CQR anchor works very well in the Delta. My uncle has used one for many years. He can set in weeds that I can't with the Danforth. He has a big Hans Christian and uses an all-chain rode with it.

I wouldn't mind having a CQR but it would make no sense at all on a 26' boat with no windlass or roller. Wouldn't want that anchor fastened down to the deck with that sharp point sticking out.

OTH, when anchoring in mud my uncle often takes a couple of passes before the CQR grabs the bottom while I almost always hit it on the first try.
 
22lbs is a little light on a 32 footer.

the claw is better known as the Bruce, although Bruce doens't make small anchors anymore so all the claws are knock offs.. they are supposed to work well and reset easily, unlike a dnaforth that may not reset if i clogs up with mud and grass. I've used one but only a few times, a 110# on a 70 footer. it set and held well everytime but not enough data to judge it yet. one thing is sure is that the price is great... much cheaper than a CQR, Delta or FX

a little out of its natural environement on the front seat of my car but this is what a claw / Bruce looks like (this is a 110lbs):

bruce.jpg


the key, like most anchors, is not just to wait till it touches down to reverse. if you do that, the angle will be wrong. Normally, unless it's dead calm, I let the breeze push the boat back as i pay out 7:1 scope. I only use reverse to make sure it holds. You may want to try that too...
 
I have a plow anchor up front augmented with a Fortress. Sometimes the plow drags and the light weight Fortress actually ends up holding the brunt of the load.
 
Thanks everyone. It sounds like it should work, and if I add a swivel to my chain and modify my techinique a bit, it should work. Sounds like a good excuse to go to the boat - gotta' practice anchoring!
 
It sounds like you're talking about a "Delta Fast set" anchor. It's like the CQR, but doesn't have the swivel. I've heard mixed reviews on that type of anchor.

An interested note about anchors. Sometimes the locals develop specialized anchors for specific areas. In the coastal waters off Santa Cruz, the bottom has deep 6'wide cracks in the bottom. You can dive nearly 30' down into the cracks on the bottom. Most any Fluke type anchors get hooked up in those cracks and you loose them. The solution is a hand made "Rock anchor". It consists of a heavy 2 1/2" pipe with tempured rebar through the center and bent out to form grapnel style hooks. When this anchor gets hung up on the bottom, you just give it a strong pull and the soft tempured hooks straighten out, releasing the anchor. This anchor doesn't have the holding ability of a CQR, but for fishing over rocks, it works out well. Actually, the holding ability of this anchor comes from the chain. (wrapping up around the rocks)

Rock_Anchor.gif
 
I have a folding "grapnel" style anchor which I will use in the tules. It holds very well and when you pull straight up, it comes out of the tules nicely w/o bringing a bunch or tules with it. I've used this snugged up close in windy conditions with success. And I always use a Danforth off the stern too.

Jim, that swivel will solve your twisting problem. Sometimes I have to bring my anchor up until it is out of the water, but still hanging off of the pulpit, and let it untwist itself. then I complete my stowing of the anchor with the windless. You will love having that windlass!
 
Monterey10 - That is a pretty clever hook - inexpensive and really functional. I do like the idea of on for the tules and might keep my eye open for on just for that purpose.
Liz - I love the windlass - I have had them before and forgotton how convienent and safe they are.
 
Jim, I followed your link and I'm with Pascal--your anchor is commonly known as a "Bruce", after the original patent holder. These anchors have their roots in the ground tackle of North Sea oil rigs. I tend to agree with Pascal that 22 lbs. may be a bit light for your boat--I carry a 44 lb claw as my principal anchor (all chain rode) on a 36' trawler. (The reason for these multiples of 11 in the weight is that the claw is actually sized in kilograms--Jim's is 10 Kg. and mine is 20 Kg.)

I've had good luck with the claw in both SF Bay mud and Drake's Bay sand, but weeds can indeed hamper an effective set.

I don't think the anchor has anything to do with the twist you are experiencing--I think it's the new line, which, when stretched the first few times, will untwist and not fully re-twist when retrieved. This effect will alleviate over time, but you may want to put a swivel in anyway. If you use any of the "smooth" swivels that connect with an Allen-wrench type setscrew without place for a locking wire twist, be sure to use Locktite or something similar on the threads.

BTG
 
BTG,

I was just starting to look for a bigger anchor - I have come to that conclusion as well! I am thinking a 33 will be not bad - my boat is only 14K lbs dry and you are probably 4x that in your trawler. Sound reasonable? It is funny that the 22 lb danforthe has worked quiet well - I guess is is just a different method of hooking, having the wide, flat surface area, and does not need to dig as deep. Also, I do hang in Geogiana a lot and have our fair share of weeds.

Thanks for the input,

Jim
 
BTG,

A year ago I bought a 34 Californian (18000 lbs). It came with a 22 Danforth and 30 ft of chain but frequently fouled with weeds. My checkout instructor, Pat Jarrett, recommended the 33 Bruce (aka Manta Claw) for the delta and I've never regretted the change. Another benefit is that it usually comes up relatively free of mud and weeds, unlike the Danforth.

PTO-501.JPG


As mentioned above, scope is the key. I use 5 times the depth for normal anchoring, 7 times in extreme conditions.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top