Does a new Boat need.... 2nd try

J

jmc74

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28470
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ok, I just bought a BayLiner 175BR, and I have used it only once about 4hrs, so the engine has not broken in yet... I might use it again soon if the weather stay's nice.. If I store the boat in My garage (I hope it fits) do I need to winterize the boat? I live in Antioch,Ca. so it does not get very cold, and I can run the engine every week for couple of min. to get the oils turning...

any feedback will be greatly appreciated, as I'm new to the boat thing...

also I will be taking SAFETY classes in Oct.
is there a local club for sm boat owners?
 
Sorry, I can't help you, but you can go to the main part of the forum .... ask them.

Good luck...don't give up on us..come back..Dave
 
Well, to no small degree, this is a local question, not just a maintenance item. If the temperature isn't going to get below freezing, you probably don't need to winterize the engine, though the process can protect some things if the engine isn't going to be run for a while.

Overall, I'd suggest asking your dealer what he recommends.

BTG
 
If you use your boat frequently (never stored more than a couple months?), you shouldn't have any problem at all.

To add insurance, mix a fuel staliblizer when fueling up PRIOR to storage (store with a full tank), and you should be good for many months.

Perhaps StarTron or Stabil should be considered while storage of several months..

That should serve youy well..
 
In the bay area you can get away without winterizing even when you store your boat outside. It doesn't drop below freezing very often and it would take a couple of days of being below freezing before the engine block would cool down enough to cause problems. I have never winterized and I have never had a problem. That said, we did have a cold spell last year that had me worried so I stuck a small heater under the cover of the ski boat just to be on the safe side.

If the boat is stored in the garage I am sure that it would be fine without being winterized.

It is debatable if starting the boat every few weeks hurts more than it helps. The oil can sit in the bottom of the engine all winter and not degrade any appreciable amount. Considering that starting the engine creates the hardest wear and tear (due to lack of oil pressure and no oil on the cylinder walls) I submit that you are better off to leave it alone. The one area that you might be better off is in the fuel system, especially if you have a carburetor instead of fuel injection. With a carburetor the gas can evaporate out of the float bowl and in the process distill what's left down to some gunk that can foul things up. Starting the engine up every once in a while will keep fresh gas in the bowl. If you have fuel injection there is no such worries.

I have never had any issue with storing gasoline for 6 months or so. I wouldn't worry about stabilizer or other products. There is no real reason to store with a full tank, the idea that it will somehow attract water is a myth.

If the boat is stored outside where it will get rained on then I recommend removing the drain plug and raising the bow so that any water that makes it inside will run out. I have seen boats "sink on the trailer", which basically means that they filled up with rain water to the point that damage occurs. Leave the boat so that water will drain out. If you can't have the bow high enough (like it is backed into a driveway with a slope) then I would recommend leaving the battery connected and the bilge pump circuit on.

If you don't need the battery for the bilge pump then I recommend disconnecting it completely so that there won't be any drain on it. Lead acid batterys will self discharge at a rate of about 10% per month, so after 6 months of non use the battery will be 50% dead just from its own self discharge. If the boat has a small draw (most electronics draw a small amount even when "off") it can discharge the battery much faster. I don't recommend leaving the battery on a charger all the time, but I do recommend hooking up a charger for one night a month.

If you store outside you will hopefully have a cover for the boat. It is a really good idea to arrange some sort of tent pole arrangement to hold up the middle of the cover otherwise rain water will collect in a dip, the extra weight will make the dip deeper, more water collects, the dip gets deeper, etc. I always try to tent the cover above the seats/upholstery so that mildew doesn't form. I usually run a rope from the bow eye, up over the windshield back to the stern. This provides a "peak" that holds the cover high so the water will run off.

Rod
 
Our Seaswirl stays on a hydrohoist at our marina and we put a "Golden Rod" in the engine compartment. Keeps the chill off and we don't worry about winterizing because we use the runabout alot in the winter.
 
thanks to all for the reply's...

ok, I have a new question

if i manage to get the boat on my garage (currently cleaning all my junk to make room :) ) I have a SALT WATER AQUARIUM on my garage (actually is a Frag coral growth tank) will the moisture created by the Metal Halide Lamps, damage anything on the boat? I will have it covered, and I was thinking about getting a bucket of SILICA and set it up inside the boat, but my tank has about 1qt of water evaporated daily, so the air is very warm and humid, so i crack the garage open about 2" on hot days or to vent the garage...
 
BTW, is there a local club for boaters arround the DELTA? how about fishing clubs? I want to learn to FISH, and the equipment is overwhelming, brands, models, styles, etc. I just received a catalog from BASS PRO SHOP, and it is 800 pages of just fishing stuff, this is the FISHING MASTER CATALOG 2007, so I'm a little lost...

when I was a kid, i had a Zebco 33, and a 6' Zebco graphite rod, I used to fish in a reservoir for catfish and bass, but i have forgoten all, i can't remember what to get, what lures, fish line, reels, rods, etc.
 
JMC,

There are a lot of fishing clubs ... www.coastsidefishingclub.com is devoted primarily to salt water fishing but there are freshwater. There is also the California Strped Bass Association (CSBA), www.fullspeedfishing.com and many others.

In my opinion, your salt water tank is going to result in corrosion on the boat. Salt water is very corrosive and the less expensive Bayliners are not known for the quality of their fittings.
 
Need info on the type of drive system. OB or I/O?

It's not good to start and run an inboard engine for short periods of time. It will increase the amount of condensation in the oil if you don't run it long enuff to heat and evaporate the condensation out of the engine block.

Oh! And it does get cold enuff to do damage. The 'pee hole' can get clogged. Some drives used to have a small diameter water passage That could get clogged and was also more susceptible to freezing and cracking of the case. OB would probably have a hose to the 'pee hole' so wouldn't be a problem. Newer drives probably have a larger water passage or holding area for the drainage so less susceptible to freeze.

On further consideration, you're probably not in much danger from freeze damage.[:I]
 
If an engine is going to sit without being run for a while it's not just the oil and fuel you need to worry about. The oil coats the cylinder walls. If you leave the engine sit too long without being run you risk rust forming in the cylinders. Use fogging oil to help prevent this. If you don't then that rust will risk scoring the cylinder walls, wrecking the piston rings and put particles into the oil headed straight toward causing a spun bearing. This will not be an immediate failure, it'll wait until you're a) on the water, b) in a money crunch, c) getting ready to sell the boat or d) all of the above.

If you're going to start it, say once a month, then make sure you run it for a while. As has been suggested just starting and stopping it isn't enough.

So you have to decode what's easier, fog the engine and leave it that way or start and run it a while every couple of weeks.
 
I doubt the salt nature of the aquarium matters much--when water evaporates, only the water evaporates and the salt is left behind. (That's how distallation works.) If your bubbler kicks up tons of spray and the tank isn't covered, then conceivably some salt could get to your boat, but I doubt it.

Overall, though, the humidity could be a problem, but likely one more related to mold/mildew than to corrosion. In a moist, dark environment, mildew can run riot. Believe me, I know. I don't cover my boat's windows in winter anymore, as the sunlight helps prevent everything turning green.

BTG
 
quote:
Originally posted by BayTrawlerGuy

I doubt the salt nature of the aquarium matters much--when water evaporates, only the water evaporates and the salt is left behind. (That's how distallation works.) If your bubbler kicks up tons of spray and the tank isn't covered, then conceivably some salt could get to your boat, but I doubt it.

Overall, though, the humidity could be a problem, but likely one more related to mold/mildew than to corrosion. In a moist, dark environment, mildew can run riot. Believe me, I know. I don't cover my boat's windows in winter anymore, as the sunlight helps prevent everything turning green.

BTG

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I don't use bubbler, this is a reef setup, so the last thing I need are bubbles getting on the corals... as for darkness, my garage is always (everyday) lit, as my garage has windows, and i open it several times a day. on hot day's I even crack open the garage door, and that aleviates humidity and heat, and i was thinking that actually my garage stay's about 80*-85*f most of the time, because the lights on the tank are 250w each, and it has 2, plus about 220w of Power compact fluoresent, and another 150w on another smaller tank. I actually fight the heat with 2 small wall mounted fans, pointing at the tank to cool down the water.

I guess I will fog the motor when Im done using it, this is a carburated 3.0L Mercur 135HP I/O w/Alpha Gen.1 or 2, Im not sure.

so far not evem my tools or my tool cart are even shown signs of rust and they been on the garage for the last 6mos.
 
quote:
Originally posted by abdiver

The one area that you might be better off is in the fuel system, especially if you have a carburetor instead of fuel injection. With a carburetor the gas can evaporate out of the float bowl and in the process distill what's left down to some gunk that can foul things up. Starting the engine up every once in a while will keep fresh gas in the bowl. If you have fuel injection there is no such worries.

I have never had any issue with storing gasoline for 6 months or so. I wouldn't worry about stabilizer or other products. There is no real reason to store with a full tank, the idea that it will somehow attract water is a myth.

Rod

Click to expand...


I'll second this gasoline / carburetor info. The carb is healthiest used regularly. Rod is right, the old gas over time gets old and varnishy and gets a distinctive smell to it. The problem here is that stuff can do bad things to the rubber parts in a carburetor. If you have rubber fuel lines going to the carb, one thing you can do is pinch it off with pliers as you're idling and let the carb empty with gas. It's better off that way than having a full float bowl of gas to go bad and cause problems in there.

-Noah
 
My understanding is that we would have to be continuously below freezing for several days for this to be an issue. I leave my boat on the hoist year round without problem. If it does get cold, put a heat source in the engine compartment. I have used an oven light bulb, but I'm cheap. I believe someone else mentioned a golden rod (not sure what these are actually called), this would be something specifically designed for the job (no spark incase of fuel vapors)and your best bet. Check with West Marine or your local marine supply store and see what they offer.
 
I use a Golden Rod in my engine compartment. They cost a few bucks, but use very little electricity and are spark proof. They also prevent condensation which can lead to corrosion. Sounds like your garage will protect the boat [if you get it in there!]

Good luck with your boating safety class! You will learn a ton.

As far as fishing goes, you may want to invest the money to go with a fish guide one or two times. Decide what kind of fish you want to learn to catch and use a guide who does that kind of fishing. Also if you are interested in stripped bass fishing, there is a free seminar on Bethel Island in November which is very informative and you can get the contact info for some of the best guides there!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Flutterby

I use a Golden Rod in my engine compartment. They cost a few bucks, but use very little electricity and are spark proof. They also prevent condensation which can lead to corrosion. Sounds like your garage will protect the boat [if you get it in there!]

Good luck with your boating safety class! You will learn a ton.

As far as fishing goes, you may want to invest the money to go with a fish guide one or two times. Decide what kind of fish you want to learn to catch and use a guide who does that kind of fishing. Also if you are interested in stripped bass fishing, there is a free seminar on Bethel Island in November which is very informative and you can get the contact info for some of the best guides there!

Click to expand...


where do you got the "golden rod"?

also I have purchased some gear in Oakley, so I just need to figure what is good here...

I will be using the boat this weekend on the delta just for cruising, I want to see how it is on it. any tips that i should know.

BTW I just installed a deepfinder "Hummingbird PirannaMax 215"

thanks
 
It should be a great day on the water unless the wind kicks up. A good rule of thumb: if it is windy, stay towards the east side of the delta. The wind diminishes as it moves inland. Also north/south sloughs are more protected then east/west ones.

Good idea to have that depth finder! Keep an eye on the depth as you are exploring. If it gets to 4 ft, I always slow down to idle speed so I have more time to react if required. If you accidentally get into shallow mud/sand or rocks [:-bigmouth], put your throttle into neutral and try to drift off of the shallows.....

I can't find the Golden Rod in BoatFix, but try this: http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=528
 
Living in Antioch, your boat should be perfectly fine in a garage. Just watch the temperatures in the garage if we get some freezing nights.

Goldenrods don't put out a great deal of heat, but around here they might help if the temps dip just below freezing. Place the Goldenrod next to the block and low enough so the heat will rise onto the block. They are safe for engine compartments.

I use Goldenrods to prevent condensation from forming inside the cabin during winter. I've also found that a work light with a metal shade and 40-watt standard bulb will do just as well as those small fan-type dehumidifiers. Less than $15 at Ace Hardware.
pACE2-1153579reg.jpg


Don't use any lightbulbs in the engine compartment unless they are housed in an explosion-proof enclosure.
 
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