down rigger speed and temp recomendations

M

mvc

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exMember
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Jan 1, 2000
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1047
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Looking at add a speed/temp probe to my boat. I fish Lake Michigan for Salmon. Fishing depth any where from 0 to 130 feet. 4 of them out there, Lowrance, Subtroll, Depth Raider and Fish Hawk. All but the Fish Hawk use a special cable to transmitt the data. I like the idea of not using the cable (Fish Hawk) but need some feed back from any one that have these.
Thanks
 
I just use plain cable. Speed is same as boat, and I can read depth on my locator. Temp would be my only interest, but I set depth to slightly above the majority of spotted targets (if there are any).
 
Have been using a FishHawk 840 since 1996-97 time frame. Able to see the thermocline by lowering the probe and then find the “sweet spot” for the species that we’re targeting. The new FishHawk’s are supposed to be even better. The speed reading at depth is also very helpful as there is considerable lower level current on the west side of Lake Michigan. Need to ensure that the unit is powered off prior to removing the transducer and power connectors. The Frequency that the FishHawk uses does NOT interfere with my 50/200 depthfinder nor my Cannon Digitroll IV depthfinder. I think that you will enjoy the functionality of the FishHawk.
 
I had a Fish Hawk 840 for years, IMO it was a complete POS. you'd barely get 1 trip out of a probe battery and the numbers jumped around so much I had zero confidence in the data I was receiving. I eventually took it off the boat and replaced it with a Depth Raider. Couldn't be happier with the switch, it was a vastly superior unit and the coated cable is really not an issue as far as I am concerned. I got 6 seasons out of my original coated cable, and just replaced it last season simply because it was getting a little short from re-terminating every so often.

I've had my probe down over 160' and never lost signal.

FWIW, I've been on boats with the New FH X4 and they seem to have corrected everything I hated about it's predecessor, and it looks like a nice unit now, but I still don't think I would switch back personally. Both because my first experience left such a bad taste in my mouth and because I've sealed up all of the misc holes in my transom and I dislike the coated cable a LOT less than I do the idea of drilling more holes in the transom below the waterline to install another transducer.

Steve, unless you happen to fish in some isolated part of the great lakes without subsurface currents, your speed at the lure is most definitely NOT the same as the boat. I have seen well over 1.5 mph difference between speed at the ball and GPS SOG. Some times it only takes a few degree course change to drastically reduce the difference, but without the down probe, you'd never know your lures weren't running properly.. I'd do without my graph before I went without my DR. Once I find 42 deg for the bottom of my trolling spread, everything else is set up from there and knowing down speed is critical. Besides, we catch far more fish that we don't mark than we catch ones we do. That is because, the fish you see making a nice distinct fish arch on the graph is an inactive fish that is just hanging out down there. Most fish that hit, come in quickly and never mark on the graph unless you get streakers showing up around your marked rigger balls.

Tim
 
Re: Speed.
Using whole or Cut Herring, we ran at a speed where the Herring was just rolling over, without wrecking the Herring.
Re: Depth.
All over the West Coast for King and Silver Salmon we never fished below 40 feet. Normally about 20' for Silvers and a little deeper and slower for Kings.

That was all in Salt Water.

For Sockeye (Red's) in Fresh water they used those gigantic U-20 Flatfish. International Orange or Fire Truck Red!

I never used anything but a 1.5 Oz weight in shallow water, and as much as 5 oz in deep water.
Always put a good Chain swivel about 20" up from the Bait.
Use Two Hooks for Herring. Both Hooks stick out right at the Color line. One on each side.
I always tied my own leaders. Solid tied Hooks, you don't want those Slipping Hooks.
Leader, from Weight to Bait should be as long as your Rod.
 
Thanks all for the feedback. the new Fish Hawk is about $150 more than the Depth Raider, with the other 2 inbetween. I have read a number of positive reviews on the Depth Raider and likewise on the new Fish Hawk. I think I need to get over my concern about the cable. That $150 will pay for a lot of trolling hours.
 
Wow, them are expensive.
What if you mounted a small winch, motorized or manual, down below the Gunn'l and ran the cable up over a Davitf, through the Roller eye, and operated the Cannon ball manually?
I'd bet that would cost less than $75 Bucks.
 
Thud, you'd be stunned at how much our specialized great lakes salmon trolling equipment costs.

The gear on my boat is worth far more than the boat itself. Our gear and tactics are a lot different that what you used back in the day on the west coast.

If you'd ever like to come up to Lake Ontario and give it a try, you're more than welcome.

Tim
 
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