Drive plate
- Thread starter essikr
- Start date
I've never removed the damper plate but have removed in-line Velvet 71C drive transmissions (and big 400lb Hurth ZF transmission for a VP TAMD 63? diesel) with boat in the water.
Remember, the aft "motor mounts" are actually attached to the transmission so the motor has to be block/wedge supported before disconnecting the transmission. Plus, if there is very little exposed propshaft it could be a bit difficult to back the propshaft and unfastened coupler enough to allow the transmission to free up from the engine. Generally there is enough room for that, but splitting engine and tranny from each other may entail some reluctance.
Series 71C with reduction gears specs 145 lbs dry, and 72C at 153 lbs dry. Even with 2 people horsing the VD's (drained) with ropes they can be darn awkward.
Ah, handy tip for the day on floating boat : Don't drop them.
Just for comparison sake, Michiganmotorz has the damper for $201.36 , # PCMR140001
Remember, the aft "motor mounts" are actually attached to the transmission so the motor has to be block/wedge supported before disconnecting the transmission. Plus, if there is very little exposed propshaft it could be a bit difficult to back the propshaft and unfastened coupler enough to allow the transmission to free up from the engine. Generally there is enough room for that, but splitting engine and tranny from each other may entail some reluctance.
Series 71C with reduction gears specs 145 lbs dry, and 72C at 153 lbs dry. Even with 2 people horsing the VD's (drained) with ropes they can be darn awkward.
Ah, handy tip for the day on floating boat : Don't drop them.
Just for comparison sake, Michiganmotorz has the damper for $201.36 , # PCMR140001
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2612
- Messages
- 857
Exactly. My stbd 72C is currently in the shop while boat remains in the water.
My concern is the clearance ,there is very little space to back the drive shaft. I had a problem repacking the stuffing box because of the space.How far will the shaft have to move to allow the transmission to clear the engine? Would it be possible to raise the engine far enough with the rear mounts unbolted to clear the coupling?I plan on using some type of jig to raise and hold the engine. Thanks for your reply.
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 2612
- Messages
- 857
The shaft was moved back about 6", maybe a foot?
If I recall correctly, the BW 72C has a splined shaft sticking out about 3-4" that fits into the pressure plate at a specific angle so that the shaft and crank are in a direct line. You will need to move the block forward or the transmission rearward, at least that distance.
Gene
Gene
To change a drive plate that is bolted to the flywheel you need to remove the trans from the bell housing. The input shaft is about 1 3/4 -2 inches long
So , remove positive battery cable, starter, unbolt shaft coupling. raise rear of engine and block .support trans with hoist, remove rear motor mount ears
remove 8 bolts(?), slide trans out of damper. Remove bell housing, remove drive plate(damper)
So , remove positive battery cable, starter, unbolt shaft coupling. raise rear of engine and block .support trans with hoist, remove rear motor mount ears
remove 8 bolts(?), slide trans out of damper. Remove bell housing, remove drive plate(damper)
Thank you ,this is just what I needed. The procedure makes it sound so easy but we Know working below deck on the engine is never easy. Something will not go the way it's supposed to. Will operating the boat for the rest of the season(Oct) cause any further damage ?The noise is on the port engine and making the noise at idle while in gear. When the RPM's are increased it goes away. Thanks again to all for your support.
unless the springs are busted it shouldnt be making any noise. just a clutch with out the friction material and bolted to the flywheel.
It the trans oil up to the full level and is it oil and not water from a failed trans cooler?
I don't have or work on these drive setups, but I've heard the port side can have an extra gear to accomplish left-hand propeller rotation using a right-hand rotation engine. IF that's what you have, I've heard those transmissions have a clunky sound at idle. May not be your make/model/symptom/situation, Just Sayin'
What is your idle speed set at in gear?
A lot of boat transmissions will rattle if idle rpm is too low. FWIW, I think Crusader and VD spec min 650 rpm for the GM 350's to prevent the rattle and potential related damage and I'd expect same for your Ford.
A lot of boat transmissions will rattle if idle rpm is too low. FWIW, I think Crusader and VD spec min 650 rpm for the GM 350's to prevent the rattle and potential related damage and I'd expect same for your Ford.
With idle rpm at 750 in gear and still hearing it, I'd venture you are probably making the right move. At least this way you will really know if that damper is the source, and likely is. The only other suggestion I have for now is it might be worth performing a vac gauge test while fine tuning idle mix for highest low-idle vac readings, if your carb has exposed idle mix screws. I'm just thinking that should give the engine the highest torque at low rpm and most likely to allow it to run as smoothly as possible at fwd idle. and provide least reason for the damper to rattle. Same holds true with the rest of a full tune-up.