experience with powder coating?
- Thread starter Veg
- Start date
Friend of mine has a PC business in Rockland, Ma. He has explained to me that he preps the parts with a "primer coat" first before the color coat is done. He is well known around the country for doing motor cycle frames and antique car frames. He powder coated my bronze props over the winter with "mussel buster" powder coat. Makes the props easier to clean the barnacles under water.
I had both my helm panels cut from new Aluminum 6 plus years ago and powder coated they look as good today as the day the powder coated panels were delivered.
You can see them in the old thread where I was selling my boat showing the upper helm instruments.
Bill
You can see them in the old thread where I was selling my boat showing the upper helm instruments.
Bill
Here's the problem I see with "powder coating", we speak about a process for applying a powdered paint, not the paint itself. I mean, when we ask is the boat painted, usually somebody will reply "its awl gripped" or "Imron" or some other poly which we all know from experience is a big difference than just "paint". Not to mention, when you are painting aluminum, you have a massive issue with having the metal prepped & etched properly, especially if that aluminum is going into a marine environment.
Just as there are many paints, there are many powder coat materials. They don't have all the same properties. Metal still needs to be prepped properly or your just going to have a nice powder coated finish with the all too common cancer growing underneath.
I've seen pc jobs that held up on aluminum frames and I've seen pc jobs that failed and quickly. Since I don't know the specific varieties of product used in each application and could not tell a powder coater what my preference is, I don't feel that there is a high likelihood that if I took a window frame to a powder coater that I would get back what I want.
Just as there are many paints, there are many powder coat materials. They don't have all the same properties. Metal still needs to be prepped properly or your just going to have a nice powder coated finish with the all too common cancer growing underneath.
I've seen pc jobs that held up on aluminum frames and I've seen pc jobs that failed and quickly. Since I don't know the specific varieties of product used in each application and could not tell a powder coater what my preference is, I don't feel that there is a high likelihood that if I took a window frame to a powder coater that I would get back what I want.
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That's true. Now, to be specific, I'd have them powder coated though a professional contact, a metal fabricator of national reputation that has done very high profile architectural jobs with us and many other firms, very high end custom things all around the country... So, my gut feeling is whoever they're using to do this for me is probably top notch, but I will inquire a bit more about the specifics.
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(The reason I'm doing this is some of my windows are leaking, the gaskets have deteriorated and it seems the best solution is to start from scratch. Since the glass will be taken off and the whole thing assembled "like new", I'm taking the opportunity to have these stripped and refinished. BTW, kudos to Tiara for customer support, they've provided an incredible amount of literature on how to do this, material lists, step by step instructions - with pictures, things to watch out for, etc etc etc... As well as gotten on the phone with the guy doing the work a few times).
If you can fit the parts in a oven (designated one in the garage) do your own. Harbor Freight has the machine. Eastwood inc has a variety of powders. 7 yrs later and all my 70 GTO under hood parts still look new. They even make a hight temp powder for exhaust manifolds (car). When was the last time you saw cast iron car exhaust manifolds rust free ?
All you do is prep the part, clip the ground wire from the coater to the metal,(plug it in) press the foot pedal and with EXTREMELY low air pressure, puff the powder onto the surface,(it will cling) then bake it for 20 minutes at 450, turn the oven off and let it cool in the oven. It's too easy.
All you do is prep the part, clip the ground wire from the coater to the metal,(plug it in) press the foot pedal and with EXTREMELY low air pressure, puff the powder onto the surface,(it will cling) then bake it for 20 minutes at 450, turn the oven off and let it cool in the oven. It's too easy.
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I agree with Ghost which is why I asked the material. Aluminum can be done, but it requires careful prep and careful control of the temp throughout the backing process, otherwise you will get back annealed aluminum. It sounds like, Veg you have a good vendor. I think you have a good chance this will come out looking good.
joe - i actually shipped it to a friend from another boating forum who prepped it (stripped, patched up any pits, etched) and then sent it to one of his friends for powder coating and painting. since he's a friend, the prep/paint cost was inexpensive. because of the weight and distance, shipping was expensive. in the end, it cost what it would have cost here, but i knew it was going to be done properly.
powder coating will even out slightly rough surfaces, more easily than paint does but its not a salt water friendly product. awlgrip or emron is a better choice. paint is much more durable when done properly over aluminum than powder coating. even though paint costs more its about the same cost in the end as it lasts longer. either one looks great, just a question of for how long.
Veg like you I had mine done by a national firm 6 years later and it looks as good as the day it was installed. Mine came out quite glossy for powder coating. With Aluminum it's all in the prep. work. I started with fresh new Aluminum and had it cut for the MFD's for the all glass dash. A few changes were made larger MFD's were installed but I used plenty of tape when I enlarged the cutouts for the larger MFD's.
Bill
Bill
