I need to know how to set up my electric toiet system to use freash water not raw water. Is it possible to tap into the cold side of my water line (1/2") and add a one way valve, remove the raw water line and attach it to the toilets. It would be pressure from the dock. Do i need to added any other items to do this. I have a 1991 Silverton 40' aft cabin. I have limited room to add any aditional tanks. Can anyone help. Thanks
freash water for toilet
- Thread starter fjc
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When I 1st converted I tapped into the pressure side of the cold water from the sink next to the head, I installed a T one side went to the cold faucet the other side went to a one way valve and then a shut off valve to the head. Once I changed to the Raritan Elegance head and PuraSan hold-n-treat system a on off solenoid was installed as part of the Pura-San installation kit and the head had a built in on/off solinoid. I still kept the 1 way valve in-line. I have never had my fresh water system comprimised and frankly as long as you have the one-way valve I don't know how it would ever be compromised. I have a 1993 40 Mainship Sedan Bridge so the boats are very similar.
Bill
Bill
A couple seasons ago I changed my head out to a Raritan SeaEra electric flush toilet. I bought the version made for pressurized fresh water and tapped off the cold water line for my sink. Bought the toilet from Boatfix.com and installed it into my 1986 Silverton 34C. It has been trouble free for at least three seasons now.
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I'm with Jeff. I'm not wild about converting something that was designed and built for one application, to be used in a different application. I'd prefer to see everyone order the correct head in the first place, rather than converting one.
There are too many people who don't completely understand what they're doing, and they will be taking a helluva chance on contaminating their water tanks if it isn't done right.
There are too many people who don't completely understand what they're doing, and they will be taking a helluva chance on contaminating their water tanks if it isn't done right.
Thanks for the replies however my problem is that I just purchased the boat 8 months ago. Both toilets were rebuilt and new motors installed. I do not want the expense at this time for new models. They are jabsco electrics. They work fine however when I did redo the sanitaion line I removed the the raw water side and it had a sulffer smell which appear to be making the head smell. When I replaced the hose no smells but I do not want a repeat of that smell if possible. Is there a way to adapt my toilets now to work on fresh water. Thanks again
I converted to the marine Elegance by Raritan, after 1 season with a new VacuFlush. The Raritan freshwater Elegance beats the old Jabsco and the VacuFlush both by a mile. Just because you just purchased the boat really shouldn't have much to do with upgrades. I guess it is a matter of how bad you don't want the raw water critter smell. I never had a problem with contamination using the installation I talked about above.
Bill
Bill
Vic said it, but I'll say it a different way. You run a great risk of cross contamination when you attempt to connect a head (toilet) to your potable (drinking) water system if it hasn't been designed and built for that application. I'm not saying it cannot be done safely, but if you have to ask, you don't know enough about plumbing to do it and do it safely and correctly. And instructions can't be given on a web forum to cover every possibility.
The term "cross contamination" means mixing sewage into your drinking water. It's a serious helth risk to you and your passengers and it should be much more of a concern to you than the expense of replacing your current heads.
One way to do it safely if you really have your heart set on it is to add an additional fresh water tank dedicated to flushing the head. Connect both heads to it and nothing else.
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Something often overlooked by many boaters is that very often, the very best and least expensive way to do something it to do it right the first time.
My suggestion is to put in new raw water hoses at this time. By the time that the raw water hoses become permeated with "The Odor", your finances will ( hopefully ) be more amenable to upgrading to fresh water flush.
There is no way I would have a "user modified" fresh water flush system on my boat, but I must admit, that I have never found the raw water system to be as objectionable as many who have posted here. When you convert, do it with the right equipment, and be worry free.
My suggestion is to put in new raw water hoses at this time. By the time that the raw water hoses become permeated with "The Odor", your finances will ( hopefully ) be more amenable to upgrading to fresh water flush.
There is no way I would have a "user modified" fresh water flush system on my boat, but I must admit, that I have never found the raw water system to be as objectionable as many who have posted here. When you convert, do it with the right equipment, and be worry free.
I think the detailed instructions to do this conversion are here on the site, aren't they?
But I agree with the rest, why do it. I'll take a wild guess that by the time you are done with fittings etc you have to buy, you might spend $100-200 each plus a lot of time and effort to make the change. And what you'll have is the same old Jabsco that wakes the dead and the people in the next boat over as well.
I converted mine several years ago by using a separate flush tank. It worked. It didn't smell. Then the motor went. Then it needed a rebuild for some of the seals and the like. Wish I had that money back, because the Marine Elegance is just night and day better. The only negative is the family was afraid of the old monster, and this one they want to use. Which means more trips to the pumpout.
But I agree with Bill that it's going to take time for critters to colonize your new raw water inlet hose, so you may have a few years before you need to do anything.
But I agree with the rest, why do it. I'll take a wild guess that by the time you are done with fittings etc you have to buy, you might spend $100-200 each plus a lot of time and effort to make the change. And what you'll have is the same old Jabsco that wakes the dead and the people in the next boat over as well.
I converted mine several years ago by using a separate flush tank. It worked. It didn't smell. Then the motor went. Then it needed a rebuild for some of the seals and the like. Wish I had that money back, because the Marine Elegance is just night and day better. The only negative is the family was afraid of the old monster, and this one they want to use. Which means more trips to the pumpout.
But I agree with Bill that it's going to take time for critters to colonize your new raw water inlet hose, so you may have a few years before you need to do anything.
It was mentioned on this board (one of the few boards where you can ask sanitation questions and not get "potty humor" in return) that a filter (screen) in the intake will help to keep the critters out and cut down on the odor. I did this recently and it has seemed to help.
If your boat has been sitting a while and the first flush smells the worst, it's probably the decomposing "critters" in the raw water intake hose or actual head. Like I said mine is better now. Not a bed of roses, but better.
Vic, maybe there's a market for a "RARITAN fresh water conversion kit". It wouldn't be much more than your standard solenoid valve, vacuum breaker, and some instructions. Put the three together and add $50. A lot of folks are too cheap to spend $500 (plus installation) for a whole new toilet if there's a way around it.
No I am not trying to be cheap. However in the last 8 months I have installed new manifolds, risers, elbows on both motors, install new raw water pumps, circulation pumps, carbs, stripped both coolers and heat exchangers, all sanitaion lines, water heater, fresh water lines, fausets (3), both showers fausets, all bilge pumps, rewired the boat from batteries to box, painted the complete bilge. I am at the end of the line for this year on parts. So I am going to install a new hose on the raw water side for now.
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"install a new hose on the raw water side for now."
Sounds like a workable plan...
Sounds like a workable plan...
fjc, we have the worlds worst raw water where we boat and odors have always been a problem for our Jabsco electric raw water toilet. Our fix is as follows. Shut closed seacock to toilet. Keep large "Slurpe" cup in head sink. Draw fresh water into cup from sink to use in toilet. No more odors, no major expense, it works for us! Paul.
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Bill, the reason no kit for that is offered is because there's simply too much chance for a product liability suit if someone botches the job, contaminates their tank, and then gets sick as a result. People, even though they swear that they do, often don't follow the directions. They take shortcuts to save time and money, and wind up with problems. Then it becomes my fault, and they call their lawyer...
It just isn't worth it.
It just isn't worth it.
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Paul, doing it that way causes the impeller inside the intake pump of the head to run dry. This burns out the impeller and damages the inside of the pump housing. If you're going to do it the way you're describing, you should remove the impeller from the intake pump.
Cross contamination is a serious health risk. In my city, if you have a lawn irrigation sysyem, you must have it inspected and the backflow preventer tested and certified when it is installed, and you must have it tested and certified by a certified tester each year therafter. Fail to have it tested, they turn your water off.
A boat is far more critical because you're dealing with actual sewage and a far greater possibility of loss of pressure in the potable water system.
As an example, shut off or lose power to the fresh water pump, then try to draw water from the sink. You create a vacuum in the fresh water lines and can draw water back in to the fresh water system from the head. This is not good.
A boat is far more critical because you're dealing with actual sewage and a far greater possibility of loss of pressure in the potable water system.
As an example, shut off or lose power to the fresh water pump, then try to draw water from the sink. You create a vacuum in the fresh water lines and can draw water back in to the fresh water system from the head. This is not good.