Fresh water system diagram

B

BillyK

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I'm upgrading my old copper to pex and changing the inlet location from either side of the boat to the stern. This is a diagram of how the boat will be laid out with the dockside water coming in from the stern.
Is this the way it should be done?
Does the dockside line need a check valve also?
Is there a way, if the dockside water is of low pressure, to assist it with the water tank pump?

freshwatersystemdiagram_zpsf105e155.jpg
[/URL]

Thanks,

Billy K.
 
BillyK my system in W1 looks like your drawing if I leave the 12VDC on my fresh water pump if the dock pressure drops the pump kicks in, if the pressure stays up it doesn't. It's not by design I just fumbled upon this when my wife was taking a shower she has very long hair and was trying to get the shampoo out. Someone was cleaning a boat another guy cleaning fish the pressure was all over the place, it even dropped to almost -0-. I hit the 12VDC pump switch and carefully listened as the pump would only cycle when the dock water pressure dropped.
I have a check valve at the transom water inlet/ regulator to the tank.
Bill
 
That looks right. But you need a check valve on the cold water line going to the water heater if the heater doesn't have one.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Capt. Bill1

That looks right. But you need a check valve on the cold water line going to the water heater if the heater doesn't have one.

Click to expand...
great point +1 Captain Bill.
 
Thanks guys, you're always a big help. Do I need a check valve for the dock water also?

Billy K.
 
quote:
Originally posted by BillyK

Thanks guys, you're always a big help. Do I need a check valve for the dock water also?

Billy K.

Click to expand...

I use one in my system.
Bill
 
You need a check valve between pump and tank so water doesn't flow back into the tank and you lose prime. That check valve after the accumulator tank is all you may need re: the dock water input; it keeps the dock water from back loading the tank/pump. It is nice if you have one that keeps the pump from back loading the dock water inlet depending on how your inlet and the regulator are configured, one may already be incorporated. .
 
So to modify as per Capt. Bill and George, how does this look. I added a check valve to the cold side of the water heater and to the dockside inlet. I also moved the valve from after the accumulator to before the water pump. Is this what you mean?
Also, is there a difference between a check valve and a back flow preventer?

Freshwatersystemdiagram2_zpsf30387e5.jpg
[/URL]

Thanks,

Billy K.
 
You may consider adding a couple of valves and a bypass at the water heater
to make winterizing quicker and easier
 
quote:
Originally posted by HappyKamper

You may consider adding a couple of valves and a bypass at the water heater
to make winterizing quicker and easier

Click to expand...

I think BillyK has another new heater installation thread where he does have the heater bypass and a removable plug to drain his heater. http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=165373
BillyK, my check valve is directly after the freshwater pump not before it. My pump needs no accumulator tank. It's a demand regulated dual 12VDC pump.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by caltexfla

You need a check valve between pump and tank so water doesn't flow back into the tank and you lose prime. That check valve after the accumulator tank is all you may need re: the dock water input; it keeps the dock water from back loading the tank/pump. It is nice if you have one that keeps the pump from back loading the dock water inlet depending on how your inlet and the regulator are configured, one may already be incorporated. .

Click to expand...

George I guess mine works because it's self priming and the pump is lower than the water tanks? I have the check valve after not before my aux water pump.
BillyK, I don't see your next project planned out, how are you going to plumb the new water maker? <_>.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by Billylll

quote:
Originally posted by caltexfla

You need a check valve between pump and tank so water doesn't flow back into the tank and you lose prime. That check valve after the accumulator tank is all you may need re: the dock water input; it keeps the dock water from back loading the tank/pump. It is nice if you have one that keeps the pump from back loading the dock water inlet depending on how your inlet and the regulator are configured, one may already be incorporated. .

Click to expand...

George I guess mine works because it's self priming and the pump is lower than the water tanks? I have the check valve after not before my aux water pump.
BillyK, I don't see your next project planned out, how are you going to plumb the new water maker? <_>.
Bill

Click to expand...


I have a Galley Maid water pump and it is not self priming, so in my case George is correct to put the check valve before the pump. As far as the water maker goes, the river I'm in 12 months a year is not very clear. I suspect I would spend more time changing filters then would be worth it. I would do it in a minute if it wasn't so time consuming in maintenance.

Thanks,

Billy K.
 
That's good to know thanks George and BillyK. I'll be working on my Trawler soon...
Bill
 
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