Help with dangling shaft, no pink thongs

W

WALSHIE

Well-known member
Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2000
RO Number
2124
Messages
2,373
OK, the other thread deteriorated into a thong discussion and the visuals were killing me.

After discussing doing this myself at the marina, I have been convinced it's a BAD idea. The clincher was "can you access the inside of the shtrut, where is it"? Under the engine was my response...which lit a bulb over my head...do I really want to pull the engine to access the strut?

So, I am in search of a mechanic to handle the job. The only name that was given to me was "Tony of Precision Marine, Verplank". The problem is, I couldn't find his phone number.

Does anyone have his number or a reccommendation for a mechanic to fix this? What about the boys in Pennybridge? Would they be willing to come over and take care of this? It's too late for me to put the boat back in the water and drive it over on one engine....I'm blocked in.

Anybody else?
 
Chris, This is the busiest time of the year for PBM, it's non-stop hauling, winterizing and shrink-wrapping til almost Thanksgiving for them.

Try Guy at Action Marine in Nyack.
 
For now, all I need is an estimate for the insurance company. I figure most likely I'll have to wait until the spring.
I'll give Guy a call....thanks Mike.

No-go on Guy, too far of a travel.
 
But Chris, if your shaft is hanging you really could benefit from a proper thong! You should call Pete.
 
Just a thought. Did you pro the shaft up with anything? Just thinking of the weight of the shaft pulling on the trans, bearings might not be good.
 
Yes, it's blocked so it's not hanging.

Any other suggestions for repairmen?
 
Google "precision marine" + nyack gave me two hits in your area, Nyack and Seaford...

and this one "precision marine" + verplank

gave me Precision Marine in Cape Vincent after it corrected name to Verplan**C**k plus Viking Boat Yard, Verplanck

I think every hit included a phone number.
 
Thanks j-d, I had tried that and got the same results.

Today, I tried something new and found the number but it wasn't easy.

Check out this site I never knew existed: http://www.hvmta.com/members.htm

So I called and spoke to Tony Precision Boat & Motor Inc 914-755-6224

He fixed a fellow member's strut a few years back so he comes recommended.
 
"The clincher was "can you access the inside of the shtrut, where is it"? Under the engine was my response."

is it really UNDER the engine ? it shoudl be behind. on most Vee drives, teh stuffing box is under the engine but the bolts for the struts can't be behind unless you have very long engine. looking at the pics you posted, I dont' really see how the struts would be under judging by the length of the shaft, plus stuffing box plus coupler inside the boat.
 
Actually Pascal, the mechanic I just spoke to said the same thing...he seriously doubts the engine has to be removed in order to access the strut from the inside. Also, when looking again, I do know the rudder packing nut is very far back and tough to reach. I also realize the generator sits aft of the engine (but centered) so I bet the strut is fairly accessible. If anything, there's a shelf with batteries on it that might have to be removed. But, I think this is closer to the side of the hull rather than behind the engine.

I'll try to climb in there this evening and have a look. The good news is I have someone to do the work...someone that is recommended by a fellow boater.
 
yeah, packing glands are usually hard to reach on Vee, hence the often seen dripless, but the struts shoudl be behind the engine.

ideally, they should be easy to access and not buried under gennies and batteries. they are among the things that shoudl be inspected once in a while.

look for an access panel in that shelf. on my old maxum there was a shelf along the transom with the genny and batteries, it had small hatches to get to the struts.
 
Well, the inside of the strut is VERY accessible. There are eight stainless nuts/bolts with a backing plate right on the floor of the hull. There's also a bonding wire which appears to be in good shape.

Question though: Can the dripless packing glands be re-used? Worst case, I'd have to get a new shaft, best case, I re-use the shaft that's there (after having a prop shop inspect it and the prop). If the answer is yes, I see this as a very easy job OTHER THAN aligning the engine/shaft.
 
If your engine mounts are in good shape, the alignment will not be so bad.

Just remember that you should do a rough alignment on land but the final one should be done in the water. You may need to shim the strut so that's why you do a rough one on land.

Good luck.
 
"Question though: Can the dripless packing glands be re-used? Worst case, I'd have to get a new shaft, best case, I re-use the shaft that's there (after having a prop shop inspect it and the prop). If the answer is yes, I see this as a very easy job OTHER THAN aligning the engine/shaft."

Chris,
Go to the SOC site and look for my thread in the 2004-07 34c forum "What Brand Dripless Shaft Seals Do We Have?"

According to the responces, you may have a spare seal on your shaft, I did not but many do. If it was me at the very least I would replace your shaft seals, you had some wobble, plus the age of the seals. If the seal leaks during the season you will need a short haul to fix, not cheap, replace the seal while you are on the hard and I would also consider replacing the one on the other motor.

Just My 2C

Walter
 
If I am not mistaken, on the drip-less shaft installations, there should be a spare seal on the shaft in between the coupling and the shaft log. Try to save that. If the shafts are the same diameter and you get the seals off without ANY damage, I don't see what would be wrong with reusing them.
Depending on how the coupling looks is going to tell you what you can save. If the coupling is an interference fit (heat coupling / cool shaft to install) and they are the least bit loose, you are going to get a new coupling milled if the shaft is ok.
I think there is a place on LI near the Patchhouge riverthat will make these up for you.
 
Walter, I can't retrieve your PM at work, I use boated.com I'll try to remember to retrieve over the weekend.

I was thinking if I have to simply remove/replace the shaft w/o replacing the seals, it would make the job much, much easier. Getting to the seals under the engine seems to be a challenge. I agree, it makes sense to change this seal now, I'll have to talk to the mechanic if he ever gets a chance to visit the boat.
 
Make sure you keep the spare on the shaft so it can be slid in place if the installed one fails.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top