My boat is a 1985 and I think over the years things have accumlated at the bottom of the tank that just won't pump out. When I go to the pump out it empties but then I run the hose to rinse and it seems to fill pretty quickly. It there anything that can be used to break up things that may have dried and are like buffalo chips. Dont know for sure but that is my suspicions.
holding tank complete cleanout
- Thread starter Brian
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Three thoughts.
1. If your vent is large enough, get a cheap garden hose you will only use for this purpose. Run the hose in the vent and down into the tank. Turn the hose on full blast and let it flop around in the tank while you pump out. The pressure from the hose will help to break up some of the chips. To give you a point of reference, I had to do this on my 2001 Regal in 2005 and it took over 15 minutes of constant pumping to get clear water through the sight glass.
2. If the vent hose is not large enough, Install a Camco Tornado.
It does basically the same thing.
3. If it's not too late in the season, put some Calgon in the tank, put enough water in the tank to cover the chips and take a ride crossing wakes and chop to agitate the mixture in the holding tank. The Calgon will help to loosen and soften the chips. Pump them out this year. Next year put in some Calgon and water in the tank before your first run and after every pumpout. It works well for me.
1. If your vent is large enough, get a cheap garden hose you will only use for this purpose. Run the hose in the vent and down into the tank. Turn the hose on full blast and let it flop around in the tank while you pump out. The pressure from the hose will help to break up some of the chips. To give you a point of reference, I had to do this on my 2001 Regal in 2005 and it took over 15 minutes of constant pumping to get clear water through the sight glass.
2. If the vent hose is not large enough, Install a Camco Tornado.
It does basically the same thing.
3. If it's not too late in the season, put some Calgon in the tank, put enough water in the tank to cover the chips and take a ride crossing wakes and chop to agitate the mixture in the holding tank. The Calgon will help to loosen and soften the chips. Pump them out this year. Next year put in some Calgon and water in the tank before your first run and after every pumpout. It works well for me.
I use a combination of a marine product called CP (Clean Potty) every 3 months and Odorlass every weekend. Both of these products use microbes to eat the "chips" as well as eliminate odors not with a frangrence but as enzyemes. However you have to have good airflow in the tank from your tanks vent system. My original tank was Aluminum and eventually it leaked. This was prior to me knowing anything about marine holding tanks. I ended up replacing the original 1993 tank with a larger 36 gallon Poly tank. I installed a 6" (air tight) cap so I can open the tank to inspect it and clean it with a pressure washer on the low setting. I have not needed to do this since following the periodic CP treatments and using Odorlass weekly.
Bill
Bill
I use the same treatment on my shower sump system just not as often as the head/holding tank. I routinely open the shower sump and clean it out. Before learning the shower sump needed periodic cleaning I would have to replace the Rule pump almost every season.
Bill
Bill
This comes up over and over, but the outlet from your holding tank is at the bottom. If there is more than an inch or so of solids on the bottom, you wouldn't be able to pump it out at all. Look at it and you'll see what I mean.
If you really want to clean it, install a cleanout port in the top. Then you can reach in with whatever tools seem appropriate and give it a good cleaning.
If you really want to clean it, install a cleanout port in the top. Then you can reach in with whatever tools seem appropriate and give it a good cleaning.
Ron that is the product, my spelling is terrible! I use the Odorlos liquid version. Once a week before we leave the boat. The CP is used less often. I can open the 6" inspection plate and have -0- odors. But I also don't leave the tank full of crap, I usually flush at least a couple of gallons of fresh water after the pumpout or if I am using my PuraSan treatment system.
I never use bleach in the holding tank.
Bill
I never use bleach in the holding tank.
Bill
I understand what you are saying. There was no filter on my Regal. The original vent was an inch plus. After I pumped out, the water going into the holding tank via the garden hose was filling the holding tank almost as fast as the suction side of the pump. Therefore, the chips getting beat up and falling off the sides had a minimum chance of settling to the bottom and adhering again.
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You actually do not need good tank ventilation for Odorlos to work. However, if you are using KO, you do need lots of air circulation.
Enzyme treatment is the way to go, otherwise you are just covering up odors, not dealing with the real problem.
Enzyme treatment is the way to go, otherwise you are just covering up odors, not dealing with the real problem.
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Bill, that's what I was talking about. Odorlos is an enzyme that actually eats waste and leaves no odors. It is anerobic, so it doesn't need air to work. KO is aerobic, so it does need air to work.
Non-enzyme products merely mask odors and do not attack the root cause of the odor. Many of them even contain formaldehyde.
I have been exclusively using Odorlos for over 10 years and have absolutely zero holding tank odor. It also breaks up the sludge in the tank.
Non-enzyme products merely mask odors and do not attack the root cause of the odor. Many of them even contain formaldehyde.
I have been exclusively using Odorlos for over 10 years and have absolutely zero holding tank odor. It also breaks up the sludge in the tank.
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HOGAN et al,
Odorlos does not need extra ventilation, however, it is aerobic. Odorlos, i addition to the enzymes, includes an oxidizer, so "extra" ventilation is not required.
Anaerobic bacterial processes smell nasty; aerobic processes are much more "agreeable".
---
Imho, the best classes of product for the H/T are:
Live bacterial colonies ( ie: KO )
Products that promote the "wild" growth of aerobic bacteria and/or include aerobic enzymes ( ie: Odorlos )
( I will include the "tank bubblers" here. No chemistry required, but likely makes noise, uses power, requires periodic maintenance, but also likely works well )
... all the rest, most of which kill everything and "perfume" the mess.
As far as I have been able to tell, using KO in a well ventilated holding tank has the least maintenance, lowest overall cost, and most pleasant results. It may have an initial capital cost ( improving the H/T ventilation sufficiently )
--edit--
Add:
I have heard/seen reports where boats "using the blue stuff" have been prevented from pumping out into the marina system. Usually this is because the marina system uses a natural septic system, and the "blue stuff" kills their system, too.
Something to consider...
Odorlos does not need extra ventilation, however, it is aerobic. Odorlos, i addition to the enzymes, includes an oxidizer, so "extra" ventilation is not required.
Anaerobic bacterial processes smell nasty; aerobic processes are much more "agreeable".
---
Imho, the best classes of product for the H/T are:
Live bacterial colonies ( ie: KO )
Products that promote the "wild" growth of aerobic bacteria and/or include aerobic enzymes ( ie: Odorlos )
( I will include the "tank bubblers" here. No chemistry required, but likely makes noise, uses power, requires periodic maintenance, but also likely works well )
... all the rest, most of which kill everything and "perfume" the mess.
As far as I have been able to tell, using KO in a well ventilated holding tank has the least maintenance, lowest overall cost, and most pleasant results. It may have an initial capital cost ( improving the H/T ventilation sufficiently )
--edit--
Add:
I have heard/seen reports where boats "using the blue stuff" have been prevented from pumping out into the marina system. Usually this is because the marina system uses a natural septic system, and the "blue stuff" kills their system, too.
Something to consider...
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Billy III, Hogan and Rawidman are all "right on!"
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Vic, you have email...
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Radioactive (Bill) - sorry, been away. Try sending your e-mail again, to gvicwrb2@gr5tcomcast.net
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I had the same problem as the OP when I first bought my boat. My problem turned out to be sediment buildup over the years. My boat is a 1987 and originally was a raw water flush so a lot of sediment came in with the flush water.
In the end I had to remove the tank to get it completely clean. yes, some of the material was retained waste but 90% of the build up was mud/sediment brought in with the raw water when flushed.
When I installed my Marine Elegance head 2 years ago I also converted over to fresh water flush so now I can beep the holding tank nice and clean and odor free.
Bob
In the end I had to remove the tank to get it completely clean. yes, some of the material was retained waste but 90% of the build up was mud/sediment brought in with the raw water when flushed.
When I installed my Marine Elegance head 2 years ago I also converted over to fresh water flush so now I can beep the holding tank nice and clean and odor free.
Bob
Bob, excellent point my original tank had to be replaced it was Aluminum because it was old and had developed a leak. About 6 seasons ago I installed a new holding tank (Poly) and my 1st freshwater head.
I can see where it would be almost impossible to get rid of mud and sedement build up from a rawwater flush head.
Bill
I can see where it would be almost impossible to get rid of mud and sedement build up from a rawwater flush head.
Bill