Hey gang, I have a 2008, 2565, with the optional AC system. My question do you think a Honda EU 2000 would run just the AC system? I want to be able to stay overnite on the boat in the summer without going back to the dock. I dont have the specifics on the AC or current use, but was just wanting to see if anyone else has used a protable gen to run thier AC.
? Honda Gen
- Thread starter borst
- Start date
never tried it however i would think it would run your a/c. the hardest part will be getting the compressor started.
the best way to tell for sure is to check the specs on your a/c and compare them to the genny specs. you may also want to think about things like "will a tv be running also, or what about the fridge, etc" just make sure you have enough power.
the best way to tell for sure is to check the specs on your a/c and compare them to the genny specs. you may also want to think about things like "will a tv be running also, or what about the fridge, etc" just make sure you have enough power.
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- 297
You won't have any problem on a new boat, if BTU is 10k or under, used to use our honda genny on a 7K btu, with nary a glitch, and have even had it run newer 12k btu units...
This was the Honda 2000, not the 1k model though...
Good luck...
This was the Honda 2000, not the 1k model though...
Good luck...
borst;
if the working load of the A/C unit is within the output specs of the generator and you have any trouble with the startup of the compressor try two things; look at the owners manual of the a/c unit and be sure the fan coil motor is started before the compressor, there is probably a relay delay setting to do this, if the compressor wants to overload the genset contact the local dealer of the a/c system and ask them for a hardstart capacitor, it should soften the load on the generator.
most important, if you run a gas powered generator install CO detectors in the boat and make sure you have them on at all times the generator is running. CO can be pushed downwind and into the boat while you are sleeping and you'll never know it if the CO alarm does not go off.
good luck!
if the working load of the A/C unit is within the output specs of the generator and you have any trouble with the startup of the compressor try two things; look at the owners manual of the a/c unit and be sure the fan coil motor is started before the compressor, there is probably a relay delay setting to do this, if the compressor wants to overload the genset contact the local dealer of the a/c system and ask them for a hardstart capacitor, it should soften the load on the generator.
most important, if you run a gas powered generator install CO detectors in the boat and make sure you have them on at all times the generator is running. CO can be pushed downwind and into the boat while you are sleeping and you'll never know it if the CO alarm does not go off.
good luck!
vic33004, not sure the exact specs on the AC unit as far as startup goes. Really dont trust what the manufacture states. I may try to rent a Honda EU 2000 prior, to give it a test. Can any damage be done to the AC system if the honda is not strong enough or does not meet the output loads of the Gen? As for CO detectors this is a new 2008, 2565 trust me when I say it has them. The go off all summer long, even when it is just me and nothing running. I was planning on sitting the Gen on the rear swim platform, and making sure all internal ports and doors are shut. Also, I will run nothing else on the boat beside the AC, no battery charger, hot water heater. The rest of my boat is 12volt, fridge, TV
Doesn't that concern you???????
3 things make a CO detector go off.
1) Low voltage
2) false alarms from material off gassing
3) CO
If it ain't number 1 do you really want to gamble it's number 2? Losing that bet can be deadly.
I'd want to know why they are going off.
Rommer: It did concern me when I first got the boat in August. I took it back to the dealer to replace one of them. One thing that has always been a constant with my boat is the strong smell of epoxy or odors from the cabin. I was told that these would go away after a few months. The boat was a 2008 so it was brand new from the factory, the smells are starting to go away (barely). I am thinking of taking a ozone purifier to my boat in a few weeks to let in run in the engine room and cabin, thoughts on this? As for CO, I really feel they are way too senstive. My truck has set them off on when the boat was on the trailer after pulling it from the water. I have the Xintex CMD-4MR-RLY CO Sentinel Carbon Monoxide Detector. If anyone has had the same problem I would like to hear about it??? Thanks
Borst;
You can run a simple test with an ohm meter that has the ability to measure amperage. Hook the a/c up to the shore power, run thru the start up cycle and measure the surge in amperage at the unit. Then compare that to the rated surge load from the genset mfg. before you go to the trouble of measuring the unit see what the A/C mfg. surge specs are. Most likely they are very accurate as that is required to get a UL listing. After you scratch this itch you can take comfort that you are not buying the wrong size generator.
On a safety note, it would be wise to definitively resolve the CO detector issue before you enter another piece in the puzzle with the addition of a generator. The consequences of getting it wrong or a malfunctioning sensor are not to be dismissed.
You can run a simple test with an ohm meter that has the ability to measure amperage. Hook the a/c up to the shore power, run thru the start up cycle and measure the surge in amperage at the unit. Then compare that to the rated surge load from the genset mfg. before you go to the trouble of measuring the unit see what the A/C mfg. surge specs are. Most likely they are very accurate as that is required to get a UL listing. After you scratch this itch you can take comfort that you are not buying the wrong size generator.
On a safety note, it would be wise to definitively resolve the CO detector issue before you enter another piece in the puzzle with the addition of a generator. The consequences of getting it wrong or a malfunctioning sensor are not to be dismissed.
Rommer;
you would be correct that large amounts of ozone over time will attack and oxidize just about anything it comes in contact with. on a short term application with lots of particulate in the air to attack i would imagine there is no harm in using an ozone generator to knock down the fumes. once the airborne particulate is oxidized any additional O3 will remain an unstable compound until it finds something to loose the extra O and revert back to its natural 02 state. the 03 generator would probably be fine in a short term application. there is a product out there called bildge buster that us UL listed and USCG approved for this application. I would not reccomend using anything that is not rated for this as an open corona type discharge would be an extreme fire hazard. the bildge buster is available thru westmarine or other marine retailers.
you would be correct that large amounts of ozone over time will attack and oxidize just about anything it comes in contact with. on a short term application with lots of particulate in the air to attack i would imagine there is no harm in using an ozone generator to knock down the fumes. once the airborne particulate is oxidized any additional O3 will remain an unstable compound until it finds something to loose the extra O and revert back to its natural 02 state. the 03 generator would probably be fine in a short term application. there is a product out there called bildge buster that us UL listed and USCG approved for this application. I would not reccomend using anything that is not rated for this as an open corona type discharge would be an extreme fire hazard. the bildge buster is available thru westmarine or other marine retailers.
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2007
- RO Number
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The Honda genny works great to run the AC on my 2660. I secure it to the swim platform when on the hook and it purrs. You can not run other items such as microwave, hair dryer, coffee maker, etc while the AC is running. Once the cabin gets cool if you want to make coffee, you simply switch off the AC to run the coffee maker and once the coffee is done, switch back on the AC. Just be sure to let the boat swing on the hook with the wind so that the fumes from the genny will be blown down wind. You may want to look into an extended fuel tank for the Honda genny. The built-in tank only runs about 3-5 hours for my AC. You can buy the extended run tanks that will hold another 5-6 gallons of gas and will feed directly into the genny. The tank must sit beside the genny so that is something else that needs to be on the swim platform. My Honda has worked every summer for two years and it is awesome. Best $800 spent on the boat.
To all, as a group everyone here is extremly knowlegable in every aspect in boating and other fields. Vic33004 and Roomer, you always have great advise and answers. Folieadeux, It looks like the Honda Gen will work, I will get my AC unit manual out the next time a get to the boat just to double check. I will more than likely purchase the extra gas tank, 3-5 hours is not a good nite sleep in the summer hear on the hook. As for the Ozone, I may just use it for a short period like a couple of days. I dont want to take the chance of hurting rubber items or other parts. I do need to get rid of that smell. I have left the cabin open all winter in a dry storage. The smell is still there, not as bad.
The 2000 will run a 10K A/C with no problem at all. You will probably not be able to run a microwave and have the A/C kick in the compressor w/o popping the circuit breaker on the gennie. BTDT.
Watch for station wagon effect if on the hook with a stern and bow anchor holding you in place. I am working on an underwater exhaust extension for that with my gennie.
Do NOT buy the extended run kit. Not worth $100 (BTDT2) and you can tap into your main gas tank fuel feed line and with a "T" fitting and a couple of parts from Agri-Supply for well under $50 and have at 0.25 GPH a virtually endless supply of electric power.
Purchase the optional Sunbrella cover. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the case. Get an extra gas cap. You will need it to run the extended fuel supply. You have to knock out the center of the cap to put a nipple in the cap for fuel feed. For $15 it's easier to have a spare than to reassemble the one every time you want to remove the gennie from the boat.
HTH
--EDIT ADD--
Forgot to mention, get some form of rubber mat to place underneath the unit to insulate it from vibration.
Watch for station wagon effect if on the hook with a stern and bow anchor holding you in place. I am working on an underwater exhaust extension for that with my gennie.
Do NOT buy the extended run kit. Not worth $100 (BTDT2) and you can tap into your main gas tank fuel feed line and with a "T" fitting and a couple of parts from Agri-Supply for well under $50 and have at 0.25 GPH a virtually endless supply of electric power.
Purchase the optional Sunbrella cover. Saves a lot of wear and tear on the case. Get an extra gas cap. You will need it to run the extended fuel supply. You have to knock out the center of the cap to put a nipple in the cap for fuel feed. For $15 it's easier to have a spare than to reassemble the one every time you want to remove the gennie from the boat.
HTH
--EDIT ADD--
Forgot to mention, get some form of rubber mat to place underneath the unit to insulate it from vibration.
We run our AC on the hook with our honda eu2000. Will run all night on a tank of gas if I fill it up about 11 or 12. Ours will run the coffee pot and the ac. However if we are to run the micro wave I have to turn off the coffee pot. The honda is a very effiecent unit. As long as you have some wind and free floating there "should be" no problem with co. We run the standard co detector in the boat as well as two additional units that we picked up. The main is mid ship with one in the forward berth and another in the mid berth. The best way to check your boat is to find someone wiht a 2000 and ask if you can try it. I have allowed several to try mine to make sure.
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2007
- RO Number
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- 760
David is right about the rubber mat for the swim platform. The mat will absorb most vibrations from the unit while it is running. He is also right about the extra gas cap, it is a lot easier to spend $15 bucks for the spare cap than trying to put the original back together eveytime you use it.
David, I am very interested in learning more about cutting into the fuel line to create a seperate line to feed the genny. I made the "dummy" mistake of buying an extended run fuel tank when I first got my genny and I am still using it. It seems stupid to lug around that tank with 5-6 gallons of fuel when I have 75 gallons in the boat tank. Can you provide me more info. on tapping into the main fuel line.
Borst, no intent to hickjack your thread but David's experience on this subject could make life easier for you if you purchase the genny.
David, I am very interested in learning more about cutting into the fuel line to create a seperate line to feed the genny. I made the "dummy" mistake of buying an extended run fuel tank when I first got my genny and I am still using it. It seems stupid to lug around that tank with 5-6 gallons of fuel when I have 75 gallons in the boat tank. Can you provide me more info. on tapping into the main fuel line.
Borst, no intent to hickjack your thread but David's experience on this subject could make life easier for you if you purchase the genny.
[:-banghead] !!!
Thanks Neal. It was either put the idea to print or clean the bathroom.
Here is my plan had I kept the Regal.
LONG POST
There are a few ways to tackle the extended run situation. None are more right than the other, just different. This is my best compromise to the problem of carrying the extended run kit to your Honda as opposed to tapping directly into the ships main fuel system to perform the same service.
I’m not an engineer nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express when I dremt this up. Any engineer types jump in at any time. I cleared this with my mechanic, and he says in theory, this should work.
You will need:
• a brass “T” fitting. (Go to a real plumbing supply shop, a real hardware store or an engine shop. You will not find these in a homedepotlowes. I went looking this afternoon. You could jury rig one from the parts available at the local homedepotlowes, but you will probably get run out of any marina.)
• at least a dozen stainless hose clamps
• a Chrysler/Force outboard motor fuel hose male and female connectors
• an outboard motor primer bulb.
• enough fuel line to get you from the bulkhead separating the engine room and rear cabin to the stern of the boat keeping a safe routing of the fuel line in mind…then add a couple of feet.
• another piece of fuel line at least three quarters the beam of the boat.
• chafe resistant hose hangers (at least I think that’s what they are called.) They screw into a bulkhead and are used to route wires and such. They have rubber inserts in them.
• inline fuel filter.
• rubber backed steel washer.
• two brass threaded male to hose barb fitting (I shall have to get the measurements of the hose barb inner diameter. It’s not that large. maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch)
• a wing nut to match the brass male to hose barb adapter above.
I’m sure the connection can be fit in several ways that even I can think of. My information is based on what would be ONE way to do this on the 2465. Other models may be set up differently.
The inner diameter of the hose barbs need to be approximately the same diameter as the fuel line coming from the tank to the fuel filter. This measurement will determine the size of the brass “T”
Assembly:
I would not mount anything permanent until I was sure it worked.
Cut the fuel feed coming from the fuel tank to one of the engines. You may want to back blow the fuel from the lines back into the tank before you cut it to avoid a spill. Insert the “T” into the fuel hose you just cut. Soap and water will make the insertion easier. Double clamp the fittings. Take the hose that reaches the stern and double clamp it to the remaining leg of the “T”.
Insert the female part of the Chrysler/Force fuel fitting to the other end of the fuel line that reaches the stern. Double clamp the fitting.
Teflon tape the threads of the male end of the Chrysler/Force fuel fitting and screw the fitting to female to hose barb fitting. This is the part that I need to get the barb inner diameter for.
Affix the fuel line that measures ¾ the beam of the boat to the hose barb you just attached to the male Chrysler/Force fitting.
Affix the other end of the fuel line to the barb that has been inserted into the gas cap.
Cut the tube you just attached between the male Chrysler/Force fitting and the generator gas cap fitting and insert the inline fuel filter.
Fire up the gennie and see if you can see fuel passing from the “T” fitting to the gennie via the fuel filter housing. If the gennie pulls w/o the priming bulb, return it. If not, install it forward of the fuel filter. The extended run kit says to make sure the tank and gennie are at the same level. I can only assume to avoid a siphon effect from the extended run tank to the gennie. The location of the "T" fitting should suffice
To the best of my knowledge, the Honda works on a pull rather than a push fuel feed. If your engines work the same way, the small amount of fuel required by the gennie should not affect the fuel being fed to the engine. The biggest concern I would have is the fuel draw for the engine starving the gennie.
HTH
Thanks Neal. It was either put the idea to print or clean the bathroom.
Here is my plan had I kept the Regal.
LONG POST
There are a few ways to tackle the extended run situation. None are more right than the other, just different. This is my best compromise to the problem of carrying the extended run kit to your Honda as opposed to tapping directly into the ships main fuel system to perform the same service.
I’m not an engineer nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express when I dremt this up. Any engineer types jump in at any time. I cleared this with my mechanic, and he says in theory, this should work.
You will need:
• a brass “T” fitting. (Go to a real plumbing supply shop, a real hardware store or an engine shop. You will not find these in a homedepotlowes. I went looking this afternoon. You could jury rig one from the parts available at the local homedepotlowes, but you will probably get run out of any marina.)
• at least a dozen stainless hose clamps
• a Chrysler/Force outboard motor fuel hose male and female connectors
• an outboard motor primer bulb.
• enough fuel line to get you from the bulkhead separating the engine room and rear cabin to the stern of the boat keeping a safe routing of the fuel line in mind…then add a couple of feet.
• another piece of fuel line at least three quarters the beam of the boat.
• chafe resistant hose hangers (at least I think that’s what they are called.) They screw into a bulkhead and are used to route wires and such. They have rubber inserts in them.
• inline fuel filter.
• rubber backed steel washer.
• two brass threaded male to hose barb fitting (I shall have to get the measurements of the hose barb inner diameter. It’s not that large. maybe 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch)
• a wing nut to match the brass male to hose barb adapter above.
I’m sure the connection can be fit in several ways that even I can think of. My information is based on what would be ONE way to do this on the 2465. Other models may be set up differently.
The inner diameter of the hose barbs need to be approximately the same diameter as the fuel line coming from the tank to the fuel filter. This measurement will determine the size of the brass “T”
Assembly:
I would not mount anything permanent until I was sure it worked.
Cut the fuel feed coming from the fuel tank to one of the engines. You may want to back blow the fuel from the lines back into the tank before you cut it to avoid a spill. Insert the “T” into the fuel hose you just cut. Soap and water will make the insertion easier. Double clamp the fittings. Take the hose that reaches the stern and double clamp it to the remaining leg of the “T”.
Insert the female part of the Chrysler/Force fuel fitting to the other end of the fuel line that reaches the stern. Double clamp the fitting.
Teflon tape the threads of the male end of the Chrysler/Force fuel fitting and screw the fitting to female to hose barb fitting. This is the part that I need to get the barb inner diameter for.
Affix the fuel line that measures ¾ the beam of the boat to the hose barb you just attached to the male Chrysler/Force fitting.
Affix the other end of the fuel line to the barb that has been inserted into the gas cap.
Cut the tube you just attached between the male Chrysler/Force fitting and the generator gas cap fitting and insert the inline fuel filter.
Fire up the gennie and see if you can see fuel passing from the “T” fitting to the gennie via the fuel filter housing. If the gennie pulls w/o the priming bulb, return it. If not, install it forward of the fuel filter. The extended run kit says to make sure the tank and gennie are at the same level. I can only assume to avoid a siphon effect from the extended run tank to the gennie. The location of the "T" fitting should suffice
To the best of my knowledge, the Honda works on a pull rather than a push fuel feed. If your engines work the same way, the small amount of fuel required by the gennie should not affect the fuel being fed to the engine. The biggest concern I would have is the fuel draw for the engine starving the gennie.
HTH
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- RO Number
- 27046
- Messages
- 204
Hi Borst, I think a lot has already been covered on the gen set but I thought I'd share with you a little of what help with some of the odors from all the new materials, glue, etc. on our new boat 4-years ago. There's a product called "Odor-be-gone" (I think that's the way it's spelled), I found it at Sams Club. It was recommended to me by an old Trawler Captain and really worked great. It came in a gallon bottle and you simply dilute it in a spray bottle and give some paper towels a good soaking with it, place them in open plastic bags and place around the cabin. I even sprayed some directly on different areas and it didn't leave a stain or cause any type of damage to any other material. Hope that helps.
Pleasure time, thanks I am going to try this along with a ozone generator. I really cant express how bad the boat smells. I bought a new Toyota Tundra this summer also, it had a bad odor for a few weeks when the AC was on. It did go away. I think so many of these boat have so much resin, expoxy, glue, and vinyl it takes time for all to dry. Going to give the odor be gone a try.