I should know, I really should

H

hvacmach

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Joined
May 23, 2009
RO Number
31280
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74
I would rather ask an embarrassing question here then make a stupid mistake on the water.

My 20' Bayliner cuddy does not have a bow anchor cleat and if it did it would be almost
impossible to get to, so the few times I have needed an anchor I have made do with the
cleat near the cabin. Short of buying a $500 windlass what is the best /correct way to
anchor. Until now I have always found a dock or a good sandy beach, but feel I mat
actually need to use my anchor this season. LOL now guess it's time to put a proper rode on it.

[:-paperbag]
 
Is there any way to get to the bow? Does it have a walk through windshield or can you reach over the windshield? If so it's easy and inexpensive to add a cleat. Tying the anchor to the side or stern is dangerous if you get some weather or waves.
Jim
 
On some cuddy cabin boats, the access for anchoring is thru a hatch from the cabin. I too would add a cleat and if it is that difficult to get to the bow, you might consider adding a an anchor roller similar to a Windline AR-2 (http://www.windline.com/index.php?act=viewdetails&mod=100). This would allow you to store and deploy the anchor from the bow. Be sure to add backing plates behind anything you mount to spread the load out over the hull.
 
I know a guy who intentionally anchors his cuddy offset from the bow to keep his boat from swinging while he is fishing. Of course this is in the more sheltered waters of the Delta. And if you anchor up near Sacramento, the tidal influence is much much less.

When I had my cuddy, I anchored through the hatch and used a bow cleat. I usually had to crawl up onto the bow through the hatch to retrieve and secure the anchor, but I could deploy it with just my upper body popping up through the hatch.

There are even ways to stow your anchor hanging from the bow rail or secured to the fiberglass. Often when the anchor is retrieved, it is full of mud and would make a mess to stow it back inside until it can be washed.
 
Having bow chocks would be handy in addition to the cleat. Bow chocks keep the anchor line in place at anchor. I have two bow chocks placed along the toe rail and about a foot or so in back of the bow. Ideally, the anchor line should run from the cleat to the chock and into the water without touching any other part of the boat. As an alternative to bow chocks you could consider an anchor roller.

Anchor cleats should be fastened by through-bolting to a strong frame member. You can fasten chocks with screws if you have enough wood frame underneath. All deck hardware should be bedded against moisture intrusion with a quality sealant used as a bedding compound, like Sikaflex 291.

Danforth anchors were developed in Oakland during the 1930's for the US Navy. They excel in Delta ans Bay mud but are extremely difficult to use in weeds or grass. For a storm anchor: upsize the recommended 25 kt. Danforth by two sizes and use up to a boat length of chain.
 
I've still got a used anchor winch available...even comes with a bow roller which has been painted white snce this pic was taken. PM me if interested.
6c5475cd.jpg
 
It probably has a bow eye. You could use a second line through the eye with a loop, or ring or even a block, in the end to pull the rode to the bow eye or release it so that you can acess it from aft.
 
WOW thanks for all the input everyone, sorry it took me so long to re-post. Wish there was something on the bow, but there is nothing there now. After reading the suggestions and thinking about it, think I will go for an eye, or chucks so that I can control the anchor without being at the bow. A winch seems like a little more then I need for my little 20' though.

Thanks for all the help.

:)
 
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