Microwave Oven
- Thread starter CaptNCamille
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2007
- RO Number
- 27413
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- 1,164
On our previous cabin cruiser, I had installed shore power and a microwave. I secured the MW to the shelf with two straps around the top of the unit. The straps were each screwed to the shelf near the outer sides of the MW. When the buckles were pulled tight, the unit was secured and could not move. I had set the straps so the buckles were on the right-hand side so I could pull the bitter ends of the straps downwards to tighten them. I hope my explanation makes sense to you. Hy
I use a household microwave. It works fine but makes a loud hum when run on the "modified sine wave" inverter.
The biggest problem with the typical household microwave is the clock. On a boat it's better if you can find one without a clock (timer is OK, just not a clock). The GE POS I have in my home won't even warm a cup of coffee if the clock is not set and that's not just the time, it's the day, date, month and year. A real pain when the power goes off even for a couple seconds.
The biggest problem with the typical household microwave is the clock. On a boat it's better if you can find one without a clock (timer is OK, just not a clock). The GE POS I have in my home won't even warm a cup of coffee if the clock is not set and that's not just the time, it's the day, date, month and year. A real pain when the power goes off even for a couple seconds.
Saint Max came standard with a household microwave plugged into an outlet in the cabinet it is built into. It's been trouble free. When it needs to be replaced, I shall use another small household disposable unit. I would like to find one with knobs instead of electronic panels. Fat Chance there!
FWIW, I'm not big on the convection micro combo only because of the cool down time required to be able to use the microwave again. My only source of comparison in this area is my girlfriend's home unit. It's a GE Over the range model. YMMV.
HTH
FWIW, I'm not big on the convection micro combo only because of the cool down time required to be able to use the microwave again. My only source of comparison in this area is my girlfriend's home unit. It's a GE Over the range model. YMMV.
HTH
If you don't have a genny....you can install an inverter. My coach has an inverter ...run off the house batteries .... that runs the in motion sat...TV....fridge.... micro....and a few outlets ( not all at the same time ) Great for when your driving down the road.....and don't want to fire up the genny .
Don, I have a Westerbeke 8kw Diesel AC generator and a large 24VDC Sine Wave inverter/ Charger. It's actually a small 5000 watt UPS system designed for use in a data center. I will be using both for off the grid AC power. I have decided that my house bank will be 24VDC.
Bill
Sounds like you have a plan Bill. My coach has a 10KW Diesel Onan genny to support the 3 rooftop A/C units and all the other a/c needs. I have a 36VDC house battery system...to run my 3000 watt Xantrex inverter/charger. So far I have never ran short on need for power....either in campgrounds or on the road.
Bill: years ago TV makers told me that all their boards were designed ( coated??) to allow operation in humid tropical countries where AC was not common. I assume that this applies to all consumer electronics. The heavy coating you refer to has its own set of problems.
I wanted to thank Don, George and Pascal for opening my eyes. I just priced out new appliances that run off of 120VAC, will fit within my space limitations, I can refit the entire boat for less than the cost of a Norcold DE0061T with shipping.
I can pick the appliances up at the nearest Home Depot, LOWES or Sears, local to the boat's location.
In addition going with a 24VDC house bank will save on the wiring gauge and cost of re-wiring, improve my overall house bank's performance. It will allow me to use a true Sine Wave UPS style 5kw industrial duty inverter/ charger that was surplus to a project I did a few years ago.
It also helps that my boat's fuel is diesel and not gasoline!
Again thanks guys I can be pretty set in my ways. I am trying to learn from the expensive mistakes I made while building Wireless One.
Bill
I can pick the appliances up at the nearest Home Depot, LOWES or Sears, local to the boat's location.
In addition going with a 24VDC house bank will save on the wiring gauge and cost of re-wiring, improve my overall house bank's performance. It will allow me to use a true Sine Wave UPS style 5kw industrial duty inverter/ charger that was surplus to a project I did a few years ago.
It also helps that my boat's fuel is diesel and not gasoline!
Again thanks guys I can be pretty set in my ways. I am trying to learn from the expensive mistakes I made while building Wireless One.
Bill
Bill.....I would suggest you check with the manufacturer's you choose for your residential appliances.....to be SURE they will run on pure Sine Wave technology. The reason I say this.... is my neighbor did a conversion from Norcold R/V frig to a residential frig with a inverter ( not sure what style ) and the frig wasn't compatible and didn't work. ........just saying......
Good luck.....
Good luck.....
I will check Don, but what I have really isn't an inverter but a 5kw UPS. I will be pulling the seperate battery box and feeding it with a 24VDC house bank. I tried running my 110VAC dorm frig and a 6,000BTU AC unit from it and everything has worked so far. In the worst case I run the generator when not on shore power.
I'll check I was looking at a Vissani stainless refrigerator for the boat.
It uses a conventional thermostat not a digital one. The microwave I like is a Magic Chef 900 watt unit. I have heard that the timers can run fast/ or slow on a modified sine wave inverter, this is a true Sine Wave UPS unit I was planning to use. The unit will sync itself with the AC source if it senses low AC voltage to keep the devices it powers operating as if there was no voltage sag.
Bill
Maybe years ago it was common....but I think today its a special feature.
When I upgraded my old style TV's in my other coach to LCD's....at the time this was the only steel frame....coated circuit board on the market. May be different today.
http://www.rvautoparts.com/TV-LCD-Flat-Panel-110AC-32-Jensen-JE3208RTL_p_12888.html
The TV's I have are already 12VDC LED TFT Jensen units. I have a 26" and a 19" that I plan on using with the KVH M3 dome and receiver. I have a nice 24vdc to 12VDC 30 amp switching constant voltage supply that will power the stuff that needs only 12VDC.
I just checked the AC unit that I am doing my UPS inverter test with has digital controls. The compressor kicks on as normal so I think I have the correct unit for one leg of my AC power on the boat. I won't be running anything like Air Conditioning off the UPS although it can support it. There is no point in taking the capacity away from my 24VDC house bank trying to run an AC unit.
Bill
I just checked the AC unit that I am doing my UPS inverter test with has digital controls. The compressor kicks on as normal so I think I have the correct unit for one leg of my AC power on the boat. I won't be running anything like Air Conditioning off the UPS although it can support it. There is no point in taking the capacity away from my 24VDC house bank trying to run an AC unit.
Bill
- Joined
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- 3,996
Don, I think you've got it backwards when it comes to inverters. Some appliances have problems with the cheaper "modified sine wave" inverters, but just about anything should run off a "pure sine wave" inverter. The latter having nice curves to the waves (like shore-side AC), the former being a chopped off square wave (hence, cheaper inverters).
Bill, FWIW, I use marine-grade stuff that I need to run off the house bank (12v). The rest I buy residential-grade. My little Sharp Microwave with a baking element is going on 10 years now and well over 1,000 hours on the boat.
Bill, FWIW, I use marine-grade stuff that I need to run off the house bank (12v). The rest I buy residential-grade. My little Sharp Microwave with a baking element is going on 10 years now and well over 1,000 hours on the boat.
Kurt I was thinking if the UPS turns out to not be practical I could always use one of those 12-24VDC large cooler like refrigerators for extended cruising. I think the 24VDC primary house bank DC system should run almost everything needed for navigation, communications and lighting including the UPS for the basic 5 cu foot AC frig when not docked or running the generator. If in the future I feel the need to install a 12-24VDC marine refrigerator I can always find a home for the Vissani frig.
Keep in mind I will be upgrading one of the engines alternator to a 24VDC Balmar alternator and 3 stage controller. The starting circuits for the engines will still be conventional 12VDC. LED lighting doesn't mind if the voltage is 24 or 12VDC they will work the same with either voltage. Most modern day boats use a 24VDC house buss for reasons I talked about in this thread.
Bill
Keep in mind I will be upgrading one of the engines alternator to a 24VDC Balmar alternator and 3 stage controller. The starting circuits for the engines will still be conventional 12VDC. LED lighting doesn't mind if the voltage is 24 or 12VDC they will work the same with either voltage. Most modern day boats use a 24VDC house buss for reasons I talked about in this thread.
Bill
Modified or Quasi Sine Wave inverters have problems with some devices, especially high current motors or with digital timing circuits. A true Sine Wave UPS should be the same as plugging into the dock or a generator 110VAC source.
The plus my wind turbine is for a 24-28VDC battery bank and the Solar panels are as well.
So this doesn't mess with my alternative green energy charging sources or systems.
Bill