need some help

B

btoran

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2005
RO Number
19401
Messages
762
I've had my boat for 5 seasons now and never had a problem with the head. Now I do. I'm a sanitation novice and until now, the sum total of my experience is in using the head, not fixing it.

When we first got the boat, I was taught that when I wanted to move waste to the holding tank, I should first turn the knob to the "flush position" and pump the manual handle several times. This normally brings raw water from outside the boat into the toilet. I was then told to switch the knob to the "dry" position and pump the handle a few more times to move the waste to the holding tank.

This worked fine for several years, including at the beginning of this season. Two weeks ago the "flush" position was no longer bringing any raw water into the head. When pumping the manual handle, it takes much less force than it used to, like there is no vacuum present.

There is a seacock on the thru-hull and I confirmed that it is in the open position. A diver regularly cleans the bottom of the boat (it's moored in a harbor) and I had him check the thru-hull during the last cleaning. He confirmed that at least from the outside, it is clear. I installed a holding (and fresh water) tank monitoring system two years ago, and I'm certain it works. It reads the tank as less than half full, which based on usage is correct.

Interestingly, if I pour water into the head and pump the handle, the "flush" position will move the water to the holding tank (which is never seemed to do before), but the "dry" position won't move any water (which it used to do).

Below are some pictures of the head.

What should I be checking next?

DSC_4983.jpg
 
Looks like the same one I have and I just replaced the pump and a new joker valve that came with it. Works like a brand new unit. Took a half hour, maybe 45 minutes to do the job. No big deal.
 
Maintenance time. ( Should be performed every couple of years or so )

A "quick fix" is to disassemble and lube the pump section. The better fix is to get a "repair kit" which will include a new joker valve and assorted gaskets. ( and Instructions! :) )

Not really difficult, though it carries the potential for being messy/smelly. Not all that expensive either.

----

So, what is ( not) going on?

Simple. These pumps rely upon flexible rubber-like valves and seals. when they wear out, or get hard from age, they leak. A leaking intake valve will cause failure to ingest water, other valves cause similar issues. Fix the gaskets/seals, you should be "good to go". Keep a spare repair kit aboard since you can perform the "routine maintenance" at anytime, such as when you need to disassemble due to a guest flushing something they should have not have flushed.
 
I'm pretty sure it is a Raritan PH II but you need to confirm that and when it was made as they have different repair kits depending on when it was manufactured.
Instead of buying the kit, I completely replaced the pump as mine had a hairline crack in the housing and was leaking. I think it was $150.
 
It's a Raritan PHII, left hand version (normally, the pump is on the right when you look at the head). If you look at where the piston rod goes up and down, at the top of the pump and see all that discoloration... The piston rod seal needs to be replaced, You're likely sucking air in when you pump it, which doesn't allow it to prime.

You boat is a 1996, and I feel fairly certain that the head is original to the boat. That makes the toilet 15 years old. You said you've had it for 5 years with no problems. Should we take that to mean that there's been no maintenance done on it since you've had it - or possibly since the boat was new?

It is recommended that a repair kit be put into it at 3-5 year intervals, as a means of preventive maintenance, and that the joker valve be changed every year. At the absolute minimum, the piston rod seal and the joker valve should be replaced.

Or, if you don't want to tear into it, for fear that you'll break something, the complete toilet pump is available as a replacement part, Raritan part designation #PHIIPUMP. Les has them available for $167.30, a 25% discount from the factory list price of $224.00:

http://www.boatfix.com/shop5/store/viewItem.asp?idProduct=37165

One must realize that marine toilets aren't like toilets at home, where you install one and forget all about it until you decide to remodel the bathroom 20 years later - they require regular maintenance in order to keep them working properly.
 
Vic - thanks very much for the explanation. definitely no maintenance on it since i've had the boat. can't speak to what the previous owners did or didn't do. i agree it's probably original and needs some work now (and in the future before it breaks again). i'm comfortable tearing into it myself. do you happen to know the boatfix part number for the repair kit?
 
Vic - I tried to tackle the repair this weekend but ran into some problems. i need to get a 7/8" deep socket or i won't be able to get the piston out to change the seals, so i'll pick that up soon. i did change the flapper and joker valves, and while the pump still wouldn't work, they were both pretty shot so it was a good thing i changed them.

the problem i ran into is that the piston rod YOKE broke while i was removing it. it is labeled part# 1211PL in the diagram but when i search boatfix for the part# i get two different entries. can you pls point me to the correct one? thanks.
 
Both entries are the correct part (1211PL) - order the cheaper one!
 
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