# of Coats and RPM for Buff Magic

Spike,

Glad to see that it worked out for you!!!

Happy boating.

Jonathan
 
Hi guys, I tried the buff magic. So far only the transom. It did improve the shine but I expected better. I have a 33' express with 13' beam. How much buff magic would you expect to do below the rub rail?

Also do you let the BM dry a bit before buffing? I plan on doing more of the boat but since it is in water, the hull sides will be difficult. I may just try a celaner wax by hand for now and revisitn in the sprinf. I will use the BM on the upper gell coat and radar arch. I havea lot of non skid on the foredeck (almost the whole thing)
 
My experience...
I applied Buff Magic with a foam pad using rotary buffing machine. buffed the H out of it. Super Job!!!! Clean clear shine. Liking this part.

I put the ProPolish on by hand with a clean soft rag. Spread sparingly, let dry 3 days (inside on the hard, shaded area). Used a wool bonnet on the same tool to buff it off. Tried High /low speeds, heavy/light pressures. I must be doing something wrong because I still have heavy swirl marks. I noticed on the striping it appears like a residue is left on (easy to see against the black). I then used a clean T-shirt and it appears to clean up some on the stripe, but with an awful lot of elbow work. What's still left over almost looks like parafin on the surface. Does this stuff need to bake in the sun?

2 questions:
1) what can I do to correct the current surface?
2) what do you think I need to do differently in future to avoid a repeat scenario?
 
I wouldn't let it set for 3 days. That might be the problem.

The wool bonnet you used, what color was it? soft?
 
Definitely should not let the Pro Polish sit for 3 days before buffing off. That's your problem for sure!
 
There are some people who will let a product sit on their car/boat overnight with the feeling it will give a better shine or be easier to remove/buff out. To let it sit for 3 days would be looking for trouble from my experience. At this point I would say get a bottle of detailer spray and "mist" the surface as you buff it. If your spray runs you are using too much. And wipe it dry as you mist it on,this should correct your surface. Your best bet would be Wizard's Mist & Shine, but Wizards is a hard product to locate. Try the local auto parts store and see what they carry. Again for my time and money a microfiber towel will give you the best results.
 
Refer to Mike Ryans post on buffing procedure." When removing wax, always use a 100% terry cloth towel that is made in the U.S.A.". Why would you
use a rotory machine to remove wax?. It comes off so easy by hand, or use an orbital machine to reduce swirl marks.
 
The buffing bonnet is SOFT (almost white colored). I agree the extended dry time is likely the issue - unfortunately I misinterpreted the post indicating "the dryer the better" - my bad. I'll try the mist method next (and microfiber towel).

thx for helping guys! really appreciate this.
 
Update:
The detail mist worked well and saved the day. (THX again)
The ProPolish does work easier when removed in timely fashion, but I still do have more swirl marks than the 3M products I have previously used for LIGHT OXIDATION applications. Might be a result of my older boat, and the Buff Magic not "biting" as hard, removing as much oxidation as the 3M product does. I think the ProPolish engages more in these areas (noticably more swirls when comparing exposed surfaces to under canvas protected surfaces) and is harder to remove.

Next test - protection duration! I'll try to remember to post in a few months after Mr Sun has had his way with us!
 
We had GREAT success with buff magic and pro polish. Thanks for the tips everyone. When I went to pick it up from the chandlery (had to be special ordered, no one up here carries it) - they were all curious about the stuff, wondering where I had heard about it. Not only did I rave about BoaterEd - but now I'm raving about Buff Magic and Pro Polish!

We only got the waterline to gunnel done so far, every other weekend we've been up it's been raining. But the boat is now in the water so doing the upper structure will be a bit easier as don't have to fart around with a ladder.

Hope we don't drop the buffer in the water ! LOL
 
Get some electric cord clips/holders and clip your cord to a hand rail or the pulpit so if you drop it it will only go so far.
 
Make sure you plug into GFI outlet as well.

My cord dropped in the water and blew the GFI outlet. Quick reset and I was back in business.
 
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