I was at a boat dealer, the salesman supprised me by saying that a the new 4 stroke outboard motors are more durable & would last longer (I think he said twice as long) than an inboard. His statement is the opposite of what I always believed to be true. Was this sales talk or is this true? By the way at the moment they don't make an outboard boat in the size I am looking for, 29-32ft. Does anybody know the truth
Outboard vs. Inboard
- Thread starter artl
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I've seen IOs with 130 HPs and I've seen OBs with 200 HP ratings. Therefore OB and IOs aren't size specific. And in many ways, comparing IOs vs OBs is like comparing apples to oranage. Totally different animals.
But if you compare OBs to OBs, I'd pick a 4 stroke over a 2 stroke. Mostly because OBs get much better MPGs. A 4 stroke can run most of the day and its gas guage barely moves. But with a 2 stroke of same HP ratings, the 2-stroke loves the gas. If you keep boat for many, many years, then get the 4 stroke (OB). Especially if you use your boat - instead of looking at it (like many do). If wondering, I have a 2-stroke OB. My next upgrade will be an 4-stroke OB.
For me, an OB is easy to access, easy to work on and if she blows, I simply replace with another OB engine. Simple remove and re-install different engine. But with IOs, its deep surgery to replace engines. Its surgery to replace lower ends and its more of a hassle to winterize (due to its tight space). Thus, why I like OBs - when compared to IOs of equal HP ratings.
But if you compare OBs to OBs, I'd pick a 4 stroke over a 2 stroke. Mostly because OBs get much better MPGs. A 4 stroke can run most of the day and its gas guage barely moves. But with a 2 stroke of same HP ratings, the 2-stroke loves the gas. If you keep boat for many, many years, then get the 4 stroke (OB). Especially if you use your boat - instead of looking at it (like many do). If wondering, I have a 2-stroke OB. My next upgrade will be an 4-stroke OB.
For me, an OB is easy to access, easy to work on and if she blows, I simply replace with another OB engine. Simple remove and re-install different engine. But with IOs, its deep surgery to replace engines. Its surgery to replace lower ends and its more of a hassle to winterize (due to its tight space). Thus, why I like OBs - when compared to IOs of equal HP ratings.
I pretty much agree with what Spike said. To that I would had that, if you keep your boat in the water, an OB can be tipped up so the leg is completely out of the water. I/Os legs are subject to a lot of corrosion.
And OBs are so much easier to maintain! Simpler systems as well as easier access. Now that they have 4-stroke OBs, I take an OB over an I/O any day.
And OBs are so much easier to maintain! Simpler systems as well as easier access. Now that they have 4-stroke OBs, I take an OB over an I/O any day.
"By the way at the moment they don't make an outboard boat in the size I am looking for, 29-32ft."
!!! ????? Pursuit, Grady White, Intrepid, Edgewater, Boston Whaler and many more all make outboard "cabin" boats well into the mid 30 foot range and have for many years. I'd say SeaRay is a decade or two behind. There are also a number of center console out board boats into the 40's. I don't know about the reliability claim, but outboards have a few other advantages, opeing up interior room, ease of service, ability to get the drives out of the water, etc.
!!! ????? Pursuit, Grady White, Intrepid, Edgewater, Boston Whaler and many more all make outboard "cabin" boats well into the mid 30 foot range and have for many years. I'd say SeaRay is a decade or two behind. There are also a number of center console out board boats into the 40's. I don't know about the reliability claim, but outboards have a few other advantages, opeing up interior room, ease of service, ability to get the drives out of the water, etc.
I like I/O's only cuz I been working auto engines so long. They were a natural fit. I've been building my own marine engines for about 15 years now.
From the ground up it costs about $2500. Reusing parts cost $1300-$1700 and a refresh, tear down and replace bearings and maybe other incidentals...like replacing the crank, cost about $700.
From the ground up it costs about $2500. Reusing parts cost $1300-$1700 and a refresh, tear down and replace bearings and maybe other incidentals...like replacing the crank, cost about $700.
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He didn't say IOs he said inboards. IMHO an automotive blocked INBOARD will last longer than a high reving out board. How ever all that being said. Either will last as long as the average ownership. Note: I HATE IOs.
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As far as the 4 stroke vs. 2 stroke the new 2 stroke ETECs are pretty good. I think outboards are known for being more economical because of weight.
Right now we have a CC next to us at West End that has 4 300 horse outboards. I'm thinking he doesn't have to worry about the argument. While the 2 strokes are going to be lighter, having to supply all the TCW-3 might be a PITA.
Right now we have a CC next to us at West End that has 4 300 horse outboards. I'm thinking he doesn't have to worry about the argument. While the 2 strokes are going to be lighter, having to supply all the TCW-3 might be a PITA.
I doubt any outboard or I/O will outlive an inboard. It's just the nature of the beast. Think about it - one has the outdrive constantly exposed to the weather and sea. The other is protected. Now if you exclude the outdrive, the engines probably last about the same IF CARED FOR PROPERLY. Maintenance is the key to either animal.
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If I ever get another large boat again, it'll have outboards, and probably be Four Strokes.
If I were ever to have another inboard, the engine would be inside the deck house where I could 'feel the heat' in chilly days.
I'd have exhaust out the sides with mufflers too.
If I were ever to have another inboard, the engine would be inside the deck house where I could 'feel the heat' in chilly days.
I'd have exhaust out the sides with mufflers too.
There are a lot of 29' to 32' outboard boats on the market. Pursuit just to mention one.
I have seen outboards on boats up to 48'. Posted the pictures of one on here a couple of months ago.
Is it a specific brand you are looking for that does not make that size.
George
Over my 40 plus years of boating, I have had outboards, inboards and that god-awful hybrid the inboard-outboard. Currntly have a 26' Excel with VP I/O and a 16' center console with a 50 HP Honda outboard. Used to be inboards did outlast outboards by a large margin, but I also believe that has changed in the last three years or so.
Straight inboards were pretty reliable and used to be easy for the common guy to work on as they were essentially automotive based designs with a few unique marine parts. However, they took up a lot of room inside the hull and manufacturers seemed to delight in placing them in areas that were difficult to get into for work and several designs even required cutting out decks and cabin doors to replace old motors with new. The inhererent fixed geometry of the driveline also meant that you had to be really careful of paying attention to your water depth. The constant intake of sea water from the drive shaft packing gland also meant constantly wet bilges, at least before the introduction of dripless fittings.
Stern drives had several advantages over straight inboards and outboards in that the power trim and tilt meant the boat was easier to trim fore-and-aft, faster hole shots and manufacturers almost always had the engines located under large access hatches that made maintenance and replacement a lot easier. The variable drive line geometry also meant that if you suddenly found yourself in skinny water (hey, it has happenend to us all)you could tilt up the lower unit and usually power your way out into deeper water. However, the numerous bellows, seals, gaskets and all that aluminum hanging down in the salt water made maintenance an almost daily chore and some of those clamps inside the transom shield required a person to have two elbows on the same arm and fingers the size of a two year old to replace. I/O's did have pretty good longevity for the engine part though and replacement parts were fairy easy to come by and comparatively inexpensive as the main engine components such as pistons, rods, intake manifolds, etc could be bought at local auto parts stores. With half the drive components outside the hull, these drive systems took up less space that a straight inboard.
Older two stroke outboards were loud, stinky, tempramental and they were major pollutors of both air and water. They sucked fuel at a prodiguous rate for their horsepower too. However, they took up no room inside the hull, were readily accessible for both maintenance and replacement, had variable geometry with the power trim and tilt systems and were fairly easy for the average owner to work on. I have a friend with a Yellowfin center console powered by two Mercury 250 four strokes and in the three years we have been fishing together, these have seemed to be a nearly ideal propulsion system. The one time something went wrong with one of them, the engine electronics placed the motor in a "limp home" mode and we made it back in from 20 miles offshore with no problems - turned out to be a bad sensor and the total bill came to $126 including labor. These newer outboards are really impressive with their lower noise, cleaner emissions and vastly improved reliability.
I think the current generation of high horsepower, four-stroke outboards is already drastically changing the boating business model. For now those changes are sort of focused on the market segment of vessels 32 feet and under, but almost monthly I see new models larger than that powered by outboards. While the larger boats meant for offshore fishing have been the trend setters, it is only a matter of time before we see the so-called "express cruiser" and "pleasure yacht" segments also convert over.
My only reservation about large displacement outboards on bigger boats is in the area of engine block corrosion. I don't believe I have seen an outboard in the 250 to 300 HP range that has a closed engine cooling system. If these engines are going to be used on larger boats that get more time in the water, then that appears to me to be an issue.
If I had the choice of propulsion on a new vessel, I believe I would opt for the outboards every time.
Straight inboards were pretty reliable and used to be easy for the common guy to work on as they were essentially automotive based designs with a few unique marine parts. However, they took up a lot of room inside the hull and manufacturers seemed to delight in placing them in areas that were difficult to get into for work and several designs even required cutting out decks and cabin doors to replace old motors with new. The inhererent fixed geometry of the driveline also meant that you had to be really careful of paying attention to your water depth. The constant intake of sea water from the drive shaft packing gland also meant constantly wet bilges, at least before the introduction of dripless fittings.
Stern drives had several advantages over straight inboards and outboards in that the power trim and tilt meant the boat was easier to trim fore-and-aft, faster hole shots and manufacturers almost always had the engines located under large access hatches that made maintenance and replacement a lot easier. The variable drive line geometry also meant that if you suddenly found yourself in skinny water (hey, it has happenend to us all)you could tilt up the lower unit and usually power your way out into deeper water. However, the numerous bellows, seals, gaskets and all that aluminum hanging down in the salt water made maintenance an almost daily chore and some of those clamps inside the transom shield required a person to have two elbows on the same arm and fingers the size of a two year old to replace. I/O's did have pretty good longevity for the engine part though and replacement parts were fairy easy to come by and comparatively inexpensive as the main engine components such as pistons, rods, intake manifolds, etc could be bought at local auto parts stores. With half the drive components outside the hull, these drive systems took up less space that a straight inboard.
Older two stroke outboards were loud, stinky, tempramental and they were major pollutors of both air and water. They sucked fuel at a prodiguous rate for their horsepower too. However, they took up no room inside the hull, were readily accessible for both maintenance and replacement, had variable geometry with the power trim and tilt systems and were fairly easy for the average owner to work on. I have a friend with a Yellowfin center console powered by two Mercury 250 four strokes and in the three years we have been fishing together, these have seemed to be a nearly ideal propulsion system. The one time something went wrong with one of them, the engine electronics placed the motor in a "limp home" mode and we made it back in from 20 miles offshore with no problems - turned out to be a bad sensor and the total bill came to $126 including labor. These newer outboards are really impressive with their lower noise, cleaner emissions and vastly improved reliability.
I think the current generation of high horsepower, four-stroke outboards is already drastically changing the boating business model. For now those changes are sort of focused on the market segment of vessels 32 feet and under, but almost monthly I see new models larger than that powered by outboards. While the larger boats meant for offshore fishing have been the trend setters, it is only a matter of time before we see the so-called "express cruiser" and "pleasure yacht" segments also convert over.
My only reservation about large displacement outboards on bigger boats is in the area of engine block corrosion. I don't believe I have seen an outboard in the 250 to 300 HP range that has a closed engine cooling system. If these engines are going to be used on larger boats that get more time in the water, then that appears to me to be an issue.
If I had the choice of propulsion on a new vessel, I believe I would opt for the outboards every time.
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Given the ease of working on them, the ability to bring them out of the water at rest, and the space they free up in the boat. I would opt for outboards vs. inboards if available in a boat my size, although it would likely take three of them to get enough hp. The Yamaha 350 V-8 looks promising. Having outboards on my boat would take nearly 2 feet off the draft not having the running gear down there as far as shafts and props go. It is for that reason I often wondered why express style boats do not use jet drives.
The truth is, he is a salesman and is selling outboards. A salesperson's job, and how he supports himself, is telling people something that will make them buy the product he is selling.
My inboard (diesel) has over 3,000 hours on the engine and is still going strong. I don't think that can be expected of a high reving outboard.
You have to consider a lot more than engine longevity when selecting an engine to match a boat. I think an outboard would have a difficult time powering my 10,000 lb trawler even if it had the same 200 HP rating.
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What? They make OB boats up to 50'
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First, he asked about OB vs inboard, not IO.
Simpler systems? Really, have you ever pulled the cowling off a modern day outboard? Have you ever even seen the workings of a Mercury Verado? How about an E-tec?
Easier access? The idea of hanging over the back of your boat doing work is easier than lifting a hatch to you?
I have owned all configurations, and by far inboards win.
"The truth is, he is a salesman and is selling outboards. A salesperson's job, and how he supports himself, is telling people something that will make them buy the product he is selling."
I thought we were supposed to leave politics out of this...
"You have to consider a lot more than engine longevity when selecting an engine to match a boat. I think an outboard would have a difficult time powering my 10,000 lb trawler even if it had the same 200 HP rating."
I see lots of houseboats heavier than that with outboards. A lot has to do with the size of the prop and the gear reduction. I don't know of any outboards that can swing a 24" or so propeller. While an outboard's smaller prop COULD push the boat, overall efficiency would suffer.
I thought we were supposed to leave politics out of this...
"You have to consider a lot more than engine longevity when selecting an engine to match a boat. I think an outboard would have a difficult time powering my 10,000 lb trawler even if it had the same 200 HP rating."
I see lots of houseboats heavier than that with outboards. A lot has to do with the size of the prop and the gear reduction. I don't know of any outboards that can swing a 24" or so propeller. While an outboard's smaller prop COULD push the boat, overall efficiency would suffer.