PAR Electric flush system

N

New2Me34C

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2007
RO Number
25024
Messages
158
I have a 1990 Silverton 34C that has an electric toilet using a PAR Model 37010-0002 conversion kit. I have no idea who the manufacturer of the actual toilet is but the directions for the PAR kit says it works with several manufacturers models including a Raritan PH.

It is presently using sea water for flushing. In an effort to prevent the odor that can be caused by sea water, I have been leaving the sea cock closed and flushing using some water from the sink. Since the PAR unit includes a Macerator Bowl Scavenger Pump and a Flexible Flush Pump, I am wondering if not using the sea water would eventually damage the impeller in the flush pump?

Can this setup be tied into the fresh water tank water supply? How can this be done? I assume that because the PAR system has its own pump, the water supply should not be pressurized, so would adding a T connector into the fresh water supply at the tank and before the fresh water supply pump be a simple solution? If not, what should be done? All suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks,
 
PAR is a brand name from ITT Jabsco. By turning off the seacock and pouring water into the toilet, you've likely already destroyed the intake pump's impeller, if not the pump housing as well. It only takes about 30 seconds to fry the impeller and maybe a minute or two, to melt the inside of the pump housing when there isn't water going through the pump to cool and lubricate it. A raw water toilet isn't intended to be run without having water going through the intake pump - it destroys the pump.

As far as tying it into the pressure water system on the boat, can't recommend it at all - too much chance for contaminating your tanks. If you want a fresh water-flushing head, you'd be best off to purchase one that has been designed for that application.
 
Vic,

Thanks for the reply and important info. Time to open that seacock and give it a test...fingers crossed!
 
Well I opened the sea cock and hit the flush button. Worked just fine...nothing appears to be broken. Perhaps because when flushing with water from the sink you don't need to run the pump very long.
 
Here is a follow up question now that I have been flushing just fine with sea water. A few days ago I had the tank pumped out. When I added some blue deodorant to the bowl and flushed, the blue additive seemed to not only go down the hole, as it should, but it also got mixed into the streams of sea water that were coming from the top ring of the bowl. This does not seem right to me as it would indicate that whatever STUFF was being flushed is being recycled from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the bowl. Is there some valve that may be defective?

Thanks,
 
Look at your exploded parts view; the two pumps are situated back to back with a barrier plate and a seal in between. My guess would be that the seal has failed. See items 16, 23 and 27 on the exploded parts view in linked Manual:

http://www.jabsco.com/files/37010_elec_toilet.pdf

Item 19 is the referenced seal, and item 27 is the rubber impeller.
 
Vic, couldn't he just remove the flush impeller and install a solenoid valve/vacuum breaker for the fresh water?
I'm thinking a Jabsco part# 37038-1012 or whatever you have that's equivalent. I don't know what they cost but it'd be a whole lot less than a new toilet.
 
Vic, Willie,

I am still interested in connecting the system to the fresh water supply, whether before or after the fresh water sytem pump, if that is what the Jabsco part# 37038-1012 or equivalent could be used for.

Other than that, according to the exploded parts view and parts list, the sealing sleeve (Key # 19) can not be purchased separately and doesn't have a * next to it, indicating it is not included in the Service Kit. I found on another web site that the service kit 37040-0000 includes that sleeve plus the impeller and several other parts. Confusing! Does the Service Kit include that part?

So Vic, what would be the best/cheapest way to go for this repair or an upgrade to fresh water flushing.

thanks,
 
I had a similar problem with the Jabsco 37010 electric head in my Larson.

During a Number 2, the flush water was brown and foul. Absolutely disgusting ! [:(!]

The head had always been hard to prime, and I suspect that the dry running ruined the seal between the Impeller and Scavenger. Not good for a new boat.

I had a Jabsco Quiet conversion kit installed, where the raw water is pumped via a separate pump in the engine room.

Wayne
 
Mickey, it can be done but it's a rather tedious job. First, you'll have to disable the existing raw water pump by removing the rubber impeller from it. Then you'll need to replace the seal that we've been discussing. Once the raw water pump has been disabled, you'll have to tap into the pressure water system on the boat with a "tee" and a shutoff valve. You'll need an electrically-activated solenoid valve and a vacuum breaker to add to the pressure water line, after adding the tee and shutoff valve. Look at the sticky thread on coverting a Crown Head to flush with pressure water at the top of this page - it's done the same way as with the Crown Head, after you've disabled the raw water pump (oops, it's not there any longer). Depending on the age and condition of the head you now have, it way not be cost-effective to do it. It's sometimes more cost-effective to simply replace it with a head that was actually built for a pressurized fresh water application.

PM me for a copy of how to convert a Crown Head to flush with pressure water, Les apparently removed the thread in an effort to free up some hard drive space.
 
If it can be fit, I would think putting a separate tank for feeding the head with fresh water would be a far safer alternative.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top