PVC waste pipes

foggysail

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Aug 30, 2004
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15080
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I discussed my thoughts/plans here a couple of years ago about using 1 1/2" PVC pipe to replace my waste lines in my 40' Silverton aftcabin. Last weekend I finally got around to doing the job and a big job it was. I had to use my sawzall a couple of times to open enough space to get the pipe installed. Those cuts are not noticable, one is under a head and the other is in the bilge.

I ripped out all old hoses except for the short runs to the macerator along with hte pumpout hose. Everything else between the holding tank and the two heads was scrapped. The only hose I used in the project were short lengths, enough to get between a hose barb connected to my PVC and the heads.

The holding tank input is a 90 degree PVC pipe (original) connected to an 8" in length hose which then connects to a Y. The PVC Y now connects directly the the new PVC pipe to the heads.

The job was time consuming especially when it came to making sure I had all the right fittings. I didn't and had to make an evening trip to Lowes for more parts. OH---- I used 1 1/2" sweeps for some bends (sweeps are found in the electrical departments). I thought it was better to minimize any sharp turns.

The system works well, I expect it to out live me without any stench coming from it. I highly recommend PCV to anybody who really wants to put an end to stink.

Foggy
 
Been using it for years. As long as it is mounted right it will last forever.
 
how did you hook the pvc to the flex at the end points or didnt you allow for flexing??
 
PVC has a substantial amount of flex so that in itself was not a concern. But if you are referring to the transitions between hose and pipe, West Marine sells a barbed fitting with one end threaded to accommodate 1 1/2" pipe. It requires threading, not glueing because the barbed transition piece is made of nylon. Again, I tried to keep hose lengths as short as possible so I used it only where there were no easy options such as mating to the heads themselves.

The pipe is secure in its locations plus I have tie wraps added where I thought it necessary.

Jim-- This is my second venture into PVC piping. I also used it in my Hunter sailboat years ago. But the piping challenge in the sailboat was a piece of cake compared to this project.

Foggy
 
I just wanted to say that it works great, better and much cheaper than the hose.
 
It does sound like a better idea than the hose but I will be very concerned about directly attaching PVC to a solid object such as the pump or tank.
IMO some allowance for constant vibration is needed otherwise the fittings may crack.
 
I used a hose transition between the tank and heads.

"The only hose I used in the project were short lengths, enough to get between a hose barb connected to my PVC and the heads.

The holding tank input is a 90 degree PVC pipe (original) connected to an 8" in length hose which then connects to a Y. The PVC Y now connects directly the the new PVC pipe to the heads"

There is still a short hose length between the 90 on the tank and the Y running to the heads.
 
With a little persuasion, 1-1/2 inch hose will fit on 1-1/4 inch PVC pipe...
 
Black rubber couplings are generally used to transition the PVC pipe to hose barbs, etc. You can find them at any Home Depot or Lowe's. They are called "FERNCO Couplings" in the plumbing industry. They come in all sorts of sizes and configurations. They are more commonly used to make repairs to exisitng waste, drain and vent lines in residential applications.
 
good idea Vic they are very easy to attach.
 
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