Raritan CH37E Check Valve (for Purasan)

mixman

mixman

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I'm getting a bit tired of going through one to two $30 check valves (CH37E) every year on my Purasan. The main trouble-maker is the one located close to the Purasan. I guess the chemical destroys it. Is there a substitute that can be used or a way to repair them? I see they come apart, but I haven't had time to investigate. I just put my last spare in.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

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I place mine in a Vinegar bath every month. So far this year they are holding up. That's the valve I have problems with the most Kurt. It's also a choke or clogging point for sediment. Right inside the inlet on the PuraSan also gets buildup. I clean the PuraSan inlet at the same time with a dental like probe or a drill bit.
Bill
 
does your chlorine drain to the top of the Purasan, and is that the check valve your talking about???
 
quote:
Originally posted by BarrenRiver

does your chlorine drain to the top of the Purasan, and is that the check valve your talking about???

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In my case yes, I think Kurt's talking about the same. When it gets clogged my Chlorine drains slow and over fills the tablet dispenser.
Bill
 
If that's the case there is no way to keep it from clogging. Raritan is draining the chlorine into the top of the lid. It's gonna stay full to the top, as it goes from one chamber to the other tru the cross over, located between the mixer and macerator motors, which is the highest point of the Purasan.

The best solution is to leave enough of the hose on the top of the Purasan and plug it. Then at some point on one of your hoses (or hose) to the Purasan input, cut it and install two of these

http://mediabank.dometicgroup.com/search.php?keywords=385341513&type=

with a 1.5" PVC coupling, tap it and install a barb fitting, and run your chlorine into it...and you wont have to worry about the check valve anymore, cause you won't need it. Also chlorine will drain from the canister must better too. This is what I do when I service the Purasans, and I also change out the drain fitting on the canister to use a 3/8" hose instead of 1/4"

Bill I'll send you one of these kits made up for 75' of RG11 LOL
 
If I had RG-11 in my shop I send it for free, I just rarely ever use it. I thought you talked about this modification in the other new PuraSan unit thread.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by BarrenRiver

The best solution is to leave enough of the hose on the top of the Purasan and plug it. Then at some point on one of your hoses (or hose) to the Purasan input, cut it and install two of these

http://mediabank.dometicgroup.com/search.php?keywords=385341513&type=

with a 1.5" PVC coupling, tap it and install a barb fitting, and run your chlorine into it...and you wont have to worry about the check valve anymore, cause you won't need it. Also chlorine will drain from the canister must better too. This is what I do when I service the Purasans, and I also change out the drain fitting on the canister to use a 3/8" hose instead of 1/4"

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If you get a chance, or happen to have one, I'd love to see a picture of that setup.
 
Don't have any made up at the moment but it won't take 5 minutes to come up with one.....it will take longer to dig the fittings out of the bed of the pickup...I have to service a couple of Atlantes tomorrow, so will dig out the parts and make one up......and shoot you an email with the picture...been so long since I posted a pic not sure if I remember how

btw the best way I have found to plug the hose is to stick a golf tee in it
 
"golf tee" :-)

I'm looking forward to the pic (to post here you have to post elsewhere and link to it). E-mail me via my profile if it's easier.

Thanks!
 
Kurt you can just take a 1.5" hose coupler/ splice and thread a 3/8th's fitting into the side of it. I think what BR is creating a gravity/ venturi feed point for the solution instead of a pressure point where Raritan injects the solution (at the input of the 1st chamber) into the PuraSan.
Bill
 
Kurt you can just take a 1.5" hose coupler/ splice and thread a 3/8th's fitting into the side of it. I think what BR is creating a gravity/ venturi feed point for the solution instead of a pressure point where Raritan injects the solution (at the input of the 1st chamber) into the PuraSan.
Bill
 
Ah, thanks Bill, that makes sense. I've got a PVC 90 degree elbow on my inlet to the Purasan. I might just tap that with a fitting. The Venturi effect would be much better than the current gravity feed system. Although doesn't the fresh-water valve stay open the exact same time the trigger to the macerator is on? So wouldn't some water stay in the cartridge container with this rig?
 
quote:
Originally posted by mixman

Ah, thanks Bill, that makes sense. I've got a PVC 90 degree elbow on my inlet to the Purasan. I might just tap that with a fitting. The Venturi effect would be much better than the current gravity feed system. Although doesn't the fresh-water valve stay open the exact same time the trigger to the macerator is on? So wouldn't some water stay in the cartridge container with this rig?

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Yes the freshwater stays on during the priming cycle. It will still drain and can not back flow into the freshwater because you leave the one way valve after the FW solenoid. I'm not sure I would tap into the 90 degree fitting you might still be too high and will have too much back pressure on the mixed solution feed.
Bill
 
Just wondering, does the above modification to a Coast Guard approved Marine Sanitation Device void its' approved status, if I am inspected by a strict rules interpretation inspector?
 
"A strict rules interpretation inspector" - I really don't think you're going to run into anybody who has a clue what a Type I or Type II MSD is, and surely not someone who would know what all the parts are supposed to be. I doubt they would even know the difference between a Purasan and an Electroscan. Most people I talk to have only ever heard of the old "LectraSan". I've always figured if I get inspected I'm going to have a heck of a time explaining why my discharge handle isn't secured. That's usually what I have to deal with when I have CG Auxilary "safety" inspections. Just talk fancy and be satisfied at the blank stare you get in return :-)
 
In my state we actually have every 3 year inspections by the state health department marine division,that does indeed check that a working coast guard approved MSD is installed or the thru- hull, locked with a state seal lock tie. After the inspection the inspector puts a state sanitation approved decal on the boat that is valid for 3 years.

edit added link
http://www.healthy.arkansas.gov/pro...talHealth/MarineSanitation/Pages/default.aspx
 
quote:
Originally posted by gbarger

Just wondering, does the above modification to a Coast Guard approved Marine Sanitation Device void its' approved status, if I am inspected by a strict rules interpretation inspector?

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I believe this would be a problem for this type of inspection. It certainly is a modification to the factory unit. Changing or increasing the hose size and barbs to 3/8th's would probably go unnoticed, but changing the injection point or the flow rate into the unit seems like it would be in violation of the rules. Since we have no such inspections other than USCG or State Police local boarding the only thing they seem interested in is the MSD factory approval sticker displayed properly and is the Y valve secured when in a NDZ.
Bill
 
I would certainly welcome this type of inspection if and only if they would get rid of the NDZ's in many of the areas I boat in if the vessel had timely inspections of the MSD system.
Bill
 
quote:
Originally posted by gbarger

In my state we actually have every 3 year inspections by the state health department marine division,that does indeed check that a working coast guard approved MSD is installed or the thru- hull, locked with a state seal lock tie. After the inspection the inspector puts a state sanitation approved decal on the boat that is valid for 3 years.

edit added link
http://www.healthy.arkansas.gov/pro...talHealth/MarineSanitation/Pages/default.aspx

Click to expand...


Wow, I stand corrected! We don't have anything like that in MD and I have never heard of similar on the east coast. Perhaps the "official" upgrade from Raritan would be best?
 
Sorry I haven't posted a picture , just been busy and away from the computer (installing a Purasan today and will get some)

I don't think the mods affect the CG ratings at all....you are not changing the amount of chlorine the system delivers,,,the same amount of water laps the tablets in the canister, just changing the entry point where it enters the Purasan, which now will enter the intake chamber and go thru the macerator motor on to mixer motor on the discharge side.

I have talked to Raraitan's engineering about this. In fact myself and a friend went to Raritan sat down with engineering and pointed out problems we were facing, told them about our mods and they didn't say anything about it affecting the CG rating. They went to the drawing board and came up with their "new" system, which btw uses 3/8" hose, and one of their water pumps as an air pump to force the chlorine into the Purasan (to avoid clogged check valves). I am still not satisfied with the "new" units as I have seen failures and clogged check valves in the system. It has more check valve (of a different type) than the old system.

Being in the so called "houseboat capital of the world" We have seen just about every variation of installs you can think of, and most bad.

I have a Raritan Managerm on my 86' houseboat which I made mods to, using the Purasan canister, to feed chlorine to it, and also using solenoid valves set on a timer to reverse the air flow from the air pump, this keeps me from going into the hull to replace tablets and change the air flow . Ran it past engineering they seem to like the idea and have looked at it first hand........But all in all, they never said it would affect the CG ratings, making those changes.
 
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