Tumbling Dice
Member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2005
- RO Number
- 18044
- Messages
- 102
Hello from California we spent a great weekend on the boat but there is no water going in the icemaker unit. It is cold but not making ice. Any ideas?
Thanks
Thanks
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Raritan Icerette No Water
- Thread starter Tumbling Dice
- Start date
Opps, here is the link: http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=128914
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2001
- RO Number
- 3655
- Messages
- 1,800
Only one problem, Brad - he's in California...!
Anyway Bob, get yourself a short piece of insulated #12 solid-core wire, like is used in house wiring. Maybe 2 or 3" long is all you'll need. Strip each end, then bend it in half, like a horseshoe. Now you have a little jumper wire. If you know a residentail electrician, he'll be able to hook you up with a short piece.
Turn the machine on, and pull the square cover off the front of the icemaking mechanism. Be sure the wire bail arm is in the "down" position, against the side of the mold assembly. You'll see the white gear wheel there. About the 5 o'clock position, off of this wheel, note two test holes "T" and "H" (Tom and Harry). With the machine on, running, and cold, insert your jumper wire into the two holes.
The compressor and fan should immediately stop running (this is good!). Then, you "should" see the white gear begin to turn very slowly in a clockwise direction. Leave the jumper in for 45-60 seconds, then pull it out. The fingers inside the mold will rotate and contact the top of the ice cubes, then stop. You may see the white gear wheel rocking back and forth. This is normal. During this period, the mold heater is on, loosening the cubes in the mold. After a few minutes, the gear wheel should resume turning. Within 3-5 minutes, it should dump that batch of cubes, and bring in water for the next batch. (The only time water will ever come into the mold is during the ejection cycle - no other time - it all works by cam action.) At a certain point in its rotation, the cam activates a switch that remains on for several seconds, allowing the water valve to open, and add water to the ice mold. After it completes it's cycle, it should park itself, and the compressor and fan will come back on to begin the next cooldown cycle.
If it does all of that, then the mold thermostat (#I34T) is bad and needs to be replaced - it isn't initiating the harvest (ejection) cycle. If it turns enough to have the fingers rest against the cubes, but never goes any farther within 10-15 minutes, the mold heater is bad, and needs to be replaced (#I34MH). If it doesn't turn at all, the control module is bad (#I34M-1), and will require replacement.
Note: if it is determined that the mold heater is bad, this is a major job to replace. Contact the factory before trying to tackle it yourself. The other two parts are fairly easy to replace.
Also Note: When water doesn't come into the machine, it's almost NEVER a bad water valve. They rarely ever fail, and if they do, it's usually the opposite problem; they don't shut completely off.
Anyway Bob, get yourself a short piece of insulated #12 solid-core wire, like is used in house wiring. Maybe 2 or 3" long is all you'll need. Strip each end, then bend it in half, like a horseshoe. Now you have a little jumper wire. If you know a residentail electrician, he'll be able to hook you up with a short piece.
Turn the machine on, and pull the square cover off the front of the icemaking mechanism. Be sure the wire bail arm is in the "down" position, against the side of the mold assembly. You'll see the white gear wheel there. About the 5 o'clock position, off of this wheel, note two test holes "T" and "H" (Tom and Harry). With the machine on, running, and cold, insert your jumper wire into the two holes.
The compressor and fan should immediately stop running (this is good!). Then, you "should" see the white gear begin to turn very slowly in a clockwise direction. Leave the jumper in for 45-60 seconds, then pull it out. The fingers inside the mold will rotate and contact the top of the ice cubes, then stop. You may see the white gear wheel rocking back and forth. This is normal. During this period, the mold heater is on, loosening the cubes in the mold. After a few minutes, the gear wheel should resume turning. Within 3-5 minutes, it should dump that batch of cubes, and bring in water for the next batch. (The only time water will ever come into the mold is during the ejection cycle - no other time - it all works by cam action.) At a certain point in its rotation, the cam activates a switch that remains on for several seconds, allowing the water valve to open, and add water to the ice mold. After it completes it's cycle, it should park itself, and the compressor and fan will come back on to begin the next cooldown cycle.
If it does all of that, then the mold thermostat (#I34T) is bad and needs to be replaced - it isn't initiating the harvest (ejection) cycle. If it turns enough to have the fingers rest against the cubes, but never goes any farther within 10-15 minutes, the mold heater is bad, and needs to be replaced (#I34MH). If it doesn't turn at all, the control module is bad (#I34M-1), and will require replacement.
Note: if it is determined that the mold heater is bad, this is a major job to replace. Contact the factory before trying to tackle it yourself. The other two parts are fairly easy to replace.
Also Note: When water doesn't come into the machine, it's almost NEVER a bad water valve. They rarely ever fail, and if they do, it's usually the opposite problem; they don't shut completely off.