Remote Oil Adaptor Leaking?

dwarren

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exMember
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Jul 8, 2004
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14233
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461
1996 Crusader 5.7 350CID
Two years with this boat noticed small amounts of oil in bilge. Of course...used battons to clean. This year, found good amount of oil in bilge during prep. Oil was changed during winterization so I know oil levels were close to dead on. Very low now. Cleaned bilge added quart and a half and ran up engine. Ran great, oil pressure good (although this motor always seemed to run lower than the other).

Noticed oil dripping from what looks to be adaptor for remote oil filter. Can't really narrow down if it's the hoses or the adapter itself as .....of course...it's the engine where the remote is against the starboard bulk head. I'm thinking of just replacing the whole thing. I think I found the right one for $219 but wondering if maybe there's something else I should check first.

Splashing on Wed so most likely won't fix until after that but of course will monitor bilge and use my "bucket head" to clean bilge if it leaks anymore (I know what's coming :-)).

Anyone???? Thought at first I blew a motor, much happier to find a simple leak.

Almost thought to remove adaptor and just put oil filter direct to motor. Is that something I can do in the short term?

Any help would be most appreciated.
 
Can you tighten the hose fittings on the adapter? Is the adapter the type that screws over the factory filter mounting location? If so perhaps that is loose and could be tightened.
 
I'm not too familiar with these. It feels like two bolts attach the adapter to the block. Doesn't look like it's one of those screw on types. I tried to tighten hoses but they wouldn't budge.
 
This is the oldest(1999-2004, carbed) Crusader engine parts manual they still offer online, but it shows a typical remote filter and adapter setup on pps. 20-22 .

http://www.crusaderengines.com/manuals/L510020.pdf

It shows the adapter held on by 2 bolts in the part list and gives a visual as to how it's set up. Try tightening those bolts slightly.

You might try wiping the whole area and the hoses as clean as possible then run for a few minutes and shut down and re-inspect (with flashlight and mirror or inspection cam if necessary) or just try pressing , not wiping, a clean cloth or paper towel against the adapter and hose connection to see if the area of the true leak source becomes evident.
 
I had a drip from a power steering cooler that turned out to be only loose clamps. I also had a vehicle with an oil cooler that was leaking from under the adapter/spacer that offset the filter to accept the cooler lines. One or both of our suggestions (mounting, hoses) can likely solve your leak.
 
If I remember correctly, the remote adapter is bolted to the block with two Allen head screws inside the adapter. The hoses are typically hydraulic fluid crimped lines.

My first suggestion is to wash the area down with "Gunk". Open the cap to the adapter and see if the two Allen head screws need tightening. Also check the gasket for the adapter cap. Retighten the cap and then warm up the engine and check to see if you can determine where the source of the oil leak.

You can replace just the hoses. Remove each from both the adapter and the remote filter head. Record which outlet/inlet on the adapter feed which outlet/inlet on the remote housing.

Yes, you can simply remove the adapter and replace it with a spin-on filter. The reason for the remote is to make filter changes easier.

Gene
 
Thanks guys, I think I'll try tightening first and monitor. Worst case, I'll pull the adapter and insert filter for short term just to make sure. I'll post pix and results here.
 
tightened one side but couldn't get the other. Couldn't find my 1/2" offset and then came the rain and the cursing. Will try tomorrow again. It was still dripping with the motor running. I may just pull it and put the filter in direct just to bypass anymore heartache.....
 
Looked at Sandy's parts diagram. Can you get at the adapter, remove, catch the oil and replace both the O-Ring-looking Gasket AND the two Plastic Washers? Thinking that they might be aged out and starting to crack.
You said "Starboard Bulkhead" and I wonder if this is a Vee-Drive boat. Just trying to picture where you're trying to work. 350/SBC block has the filter portside so to me your remote would be on the port. I can barely get at our engine-mounted filter but I comfort myself with the reduced-leak possibility...
 
Okay, replaced O Ring but apparently not good enough. Must have twisted because Oil was gushing out of it after replacement. I can't attach filter because the adapter that provides for that has been removed. At this point, that's what I want to do. anyone know what part that is?
 
To add....there is no place to "screw on" the filter. I need the "normal" part that would bolt up to the engine to accept the filter. On another note, when I was putting the remote adapter back on (serious contortionist do do it), it looks like i pinched the new O Ring. I couldn't tell but I'll tell you it was a nightmare to install. Is there an adhesive I could use to stick the O ring to the engine so it's a perfect fit?
 
I just did this repair on my starboard engine this past Saturday. In the boat, it can be a pain.

It's a square cut o'ring which doesn't have much of a lip to sit on, in the adapter. I use grease to hold the o'ring onto the adapter and pray that it doesn't move while you hold it into position, then start the two bolts and hand tighten them while you're holding the adapter from moving. Not fun with the parts being inverted laying on your side with not much room...You can't see if the o'ring has moved...no way. You will know when you start the engine up though.

I replaced both of my hoses as well. Parts are still available, no worries there. Thankfully, my o'ring held and didn't leak.

Which of these diagrams do you have on your boat? Mine is similar to the first one but my filter is horizontal.

Crusader1_zps30626f98.gif


Crusader2_zps058d930b.gif
 
Thanks Jamie, would you happen to know what I would need to buy/install to go back to screwing filter into engine? My adapter is so inaccesable there's just no way for me to ensure that the O Ring doesn't move. I got so lucky with this one just getting to re-bolt back in......

Another question, did your O Ring actually sit on the flat lip or the sub lip that's cut around the adapter? I was thinking if I could adhere the o ring into the engine itself, that would give me better odds.
 
Mine is the top BTW....keeping that dammn O Ring in place from the top of the engine is a real challenge....
 
The adapter is number 18, in the lower image. Crusader part number, 58042. Not sure of the availability. The o'ring could be glued, then lubed up and held up with adapter...but still a pain.

Crusader3_zps019c957a.gif
 
Okay...you guys rock......I bought both....figured if I couldn't get one working, I'd fall back. I used a little bellows adhesive to make sure the O Ring was in place on the adapter plate that bolts to the block. THIS time....(shoulda knows) I removed the hoses before I attempted to put the block plate (Part 3 and 4 in diagram above) back in. It went right in......perfectly this time....no adjustment at all not even a strain. Hooked the hoses back up one at a time and added oil....a LOT of oil. I only ran that motor for maybe 60 seconds and there was almost NO oil left in the pan. In any event, mopped up all the excess oil with diapers and disposed of them so I could make sure I saw any new oil.

Went inside and prayed a little........then some more....then set myself up for failure so I could keep my expectations low.....then started the motor......no leak, and after a few paranoid re wipes and restarts of the motor;......no new oil (and I even tried to make myself believe there was just to be sure).....no leaks....

Lessons Learned.....
Gasket Adhesive......
Remove all "things" in the way first time instead of trying to save time........
Have a back up plan......
Get on this forum BEFORE I try something like this again.

Thanks so much for all the help and thanks to East Shore Marine in the Anchorage (Bob Valenti).....the only one who said I wasn't on crack and could actually locate the proper O Ring....
 
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