Removing bottom paint

pstew96

pstew96

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So I was thinking I would remove my old ablative layers of paint so I could get max performance out of my boat, but when I started, between sanding and power blasting and even hiring it out I find maybe its not even worth it for the lousy estimated 1 or 2mph gain, its not cheap to have it done, why if using ablative paint wont this stuff just wear off? What do you think?
 
I'm in the same boat. I've considered doing a quarter each year for four years, but other life demands always fill my time in the spring. In reality I've never had a problem with just scraping the flaked off areas and applying a new coat each year. Last year I had more of a problem with barnacles on my prop than my hull. Go figure.
 
Odds are that removing the paint will mar the finish of the bottom so much it won't help as much as you think. To get all the paint off you will have to be quite aggressive with a sander unless you can do it chemically. Even then you may find the bottom was prepped for paint with 80 grit sand paper.
 
I did it with a DA (random orbit) sander...but I only have a 24' boat. Once you go through the gel coat gloss layer, you'll expose a million bubbles. Then you should barrier coat it. I've done almost everything you can do to a boat and one thing stands out...I'm continually reminded of the phrase "Can of Worms"
 
Don't bother. I doubt you will be able to tell the difference except to your wallet.
 
Sometimes tuning props produces measurable results.
 
I'm curious about something, would it make sense to only paint those areas that are bare or thin and allow the other areas to wear (ablatively) or are those thick areas somehow become impotent or husks and will never wear out?
 
quote:
Originally posted by pstew96

I'm curious about something, would it make sense to only paint those areas that are bare or thin and allow the other areas to wear (ablatively) or are those thick areas somehow become impotent or husks and will never wear out?

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This is what I do most years and a full paint perhaps every 4 or 5 years.
 
Sometimes tuning props produces measurable results.
 
Many years ago on my '74, 28' Luhrs before water based ablative; I took my bottom paint down to the fiberglass in 1 weekend. Used a "sharp" 2" wood chisel. Just stay away from any radii. It was like magic !!

BOB J
 
Yeah, I think your best bet is lightly scrapping where it looks flaky and just paint the exposed areas. If you plan on keeping her, do a complete bottom job when scrapping the built up areas looks like an easier job...like it's wearing away.

You might want to do some detective work and inspect the bottom and see if you can determine a cause why some areas don't wear as fast as others. Maybe thru hulls or slight cupping in the hull. Try scrapping one of the areas not wearing away... but remember that can of worms. I found a very disturbing thing. It looks like someone dropped a 3/8" bolt in the mold and didn't remove it til after the complete hull was 'laid' by chopper gun. This is a searay and the void from the bolt is still there, but I did fill it with epoxy putty.
 
Yes, it sounds like a good plan, I will concentrate on the thin spots and go over the thick spots with a thin coat but first chizzel away at any flaky spots, I never get much of a barnacle problem where I dock at Bergen Point. But on the boat I have in CT where I didn't have a baracle issue before I got several crops here and there ranging from a few inches to about 2ft diameter. So I was thinking the paint must have lost its copper and the black resin just stayed put. Maybe I should give it a little sanding with 100 grit to expose a layer or two of back in the day paint...?
 
Bare areas can be caused by poor adhesion or electrical current. Are the bae areas near metal surrounding it like a halo?
 
My bare areas are usually because of beaching or paint chipping.
 
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