Replacing Anchor Windlass foot switch

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Kevdon22

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2012
RO Number
32964
Messages
337
The down switch for my bow mounted windlass control has gone bad and has made contact occasionally without the button being pushed. Good thing that I have a safety tie off so that anchor did not go all the way down.

I have cut one wire to the bad switch to kill it, but still have operability from the bridge control.
I have purchased a new switch, but since the horizontal hatch opening access to the Anchor locker from the bow is very limited, I can only get one hand in there; and foresee problems in joining the wire from the new switch to the existing wire in the locker. The existing wire end is not close to the opening hatch in the locker. Normally I would join the wires with a crimp connector but I need two hands to perform such a crimp. I even doubt that I can strip the insulation back from the existing wire end in the rope locker with one hand.
For small less critical wires I have used different type connectors where the wires are set parallel in the connector and as the connector is snapped closed, it cuts through the insulation on the outside diameter of both wires as it makes contact with the wire.
The switches don't draw much amperage (circa 5 amps)since they activate a solenoid but I am still uncomfortable with such a weak connection in this service.
I would appreciate any thoughts on how to make the connection. I might be able to find the wire from the front bunk where it exits the side of the anchor locker, but I am trying to avoid tearing up the front V berths. I have removed the mattress before and never saw any access to the anchor locker since it seems to be fiberglass on all sides.

Appreciate any suggestions
 
There may be enough slack in the existing wire that you can remove the switch and pull the wires up through the deck, then connect the new switch before installing. Just make sure any slack won't get caught in the anchor rode.

Failing that before installing the new switch I'd connect 3-4 feet or more of wire to it. Then you can cut the old wire wherever it's convenient and make the butt connection there.
 
Before you buy a new one take it apart and clean the contacts.
 
Thanks for the thoughts/suggestions.

The line I cut had zero slack, possibly no slack was left so that it would not get caught up with the anchor rode. The switch could not be lifted up at all as it was being held down by the tight wire underneath. The wire from the switch passes through the starboard side of the rope locker and I pulled gently to see if there is any slack and found none. I was afraid to pull too hard and possibly impair the windlass operation from the bridge switch since I expect the wires are secured on the backside of the rode locker.

The problem I have is that the wire which I cut (in the rope locker) just under the switch has no slack to pull up through the hole or to reach easily through the hatch and strip the end and attach a crimp connector with two hands. Thus I am looking for another way to join the wires.

Since the windlass on ran on its own at least several times via the bad switch and even ran down the battery, I would not trust a switch repair via cleaning the contacts. To use the boat I decided to cut one of the wires and deal with installing a new switch later.
 
When I had a foot switch on my boat, I also had a supply switch at the helm. It had to be on before the foot switch would work. If the foot switch were to short out and energize the windlass, I could still kill it with the helm switch.
 
The only way for me to kill the foot switch is to go into the bilge and trip the circuit breaker. There is a separate one just for the windlass.
The switch at the bridge is in parallel with the foot switch according to the windlass mfg.
I wish I had a kill switch at the bridge, but it is not there.
 
I ran for years without securing the anchor in case something like this happened until one person a few years ago posted the damage from a anchor dropping at planing speed. The anchor put a big hole in the boats hull near the prop it destroyed. I also can't imagine the sudden stop. So now I have a coated steel cable that runs through the anchor securing it to the railing with a D ring. The anchor deck assembly is supposed to be self locking but I figure that might be the case in calm water but not heavy seas.
You might need to cut open an access panel to install new wiring to your new foot switch. There might be no other way around it. What model boat do you have Kevdon22?
Bill
 
12 Volt remote control solenoid mounted behind the dash or where ever windlass wires can be accessed. I put the remote around my neck with a cord and floatie when retrieving or dropping the anchor. Never wanted additional holes in my deck anchor area. Not hands free but never been an issue going on 5 years now. E bay. It was advertised as a remote for electric dump bed use.

Now for the disclaimer because of the few boating purist on here. NO it's not marine rated (neither is my coffee maker, microwave oven, clock, stereo, Honda Gen I used to use or charger for my stereo AGM battery, and this doesn't mount in the engine room anyway ) It HAS an high amp rating but don't remember how many amps, it never gets warm. As for stray signals activating it . . . . .never been an issue with my spot light or any other remote, just keep the safety lock in place when under way (as you should regardless)
This disclaimer of liability applies to any damages or injury, including but not limited to those caused by any failure of performance, error, omission, interruption, deletion, defect, alteration of, or use of said wireless remote.
 
Don:

Since you indicated that the wiring runs through the rope locker, can you pull out the line to see whether there is some slack wire coiled and/or stapled to a bulkhead? Is it possible to access the wire run from below the rope locker and splice in a foot or two in order to allow slack at the cut end?

If you absolutely cannot get at it from below, there are wire strippers that you can use with one hand (by squeezing the handles together, you close the spring and cut the insulation, then release to remove the cut insulation), but that still leaves the problem of a crimp connection.

Here is a possible method: tie a piece of string, thread or a long wire-tie to the wire just below the cut for the purpose of holding the wire somewhat steady; crimp a butt connector to the new wire; while pulling up on the string to hold the old wire in place, slide the butt connector over the stripped wire; then reach in with a crimper while at the same time holding the old wire. Admittedly sounds easier that it will be, however, it is possible.

I have successfully used the parallel connection you discussed without any problems. When squeezing the cover, it causes the metal blade to piece the insulation of both wires, thus making the connection. Not the prettiest connection but it does work!

Let us know what happens.

Gene
 
Thanks all for the suggestions.

BillyIII, My boat is a 1999 Silverton 422 which is an aft cabin.
We bought the boat new and I guess small things are beginning to go.

Gene: There is zero slack in the wire, it exits under the switch and angles down about 6-9 inches and directly exits the rope locker wall on the starboard side. If there is any slack, it is on the opposite side of the locker wall where the wiring must be secured since I could not pull any additional wire through the hole into the locker.

I may be able to access the wire in that space by cutting a panel out of the plywood panel under the forward stateroom bunk. The rope locker is not accessible from the forward stateroom as my earlier boats were, the rope locker seems to be fiberglass on all sides.
The parallel connector might be the best bet by adding a foot or so, work the end up through the small hole at the switch and use a butt connector to join to the new switch wire.

Since I can still operate the windlass from the bridge, I don't want to do anything too radical.
My grandson will be with us this weekend to help, wish he was still 12 and could get both hands in the hatch!
 
You can always improve the reliability of the parallel connector by putting two of them on.
 
I suspect that if you follow the wires you will find a coil or other arrangement that will allow you to gain some slack in the wires. If not, cut them where you can get to them, splice in additional wire, and pull it through to where you can make the connections to the switch.
 
The wires from the foot switches probably go to a control box with solenoids activated bu the foot switches and the helm switches. That box has to be accessible has these relays may require maintenance so the best way to repair this is to run new wires to the switches, eliminating future issue with the connections. Sooner or later those flimsy terminal you are considering will corrode and you will be back to square one.

Ad while you in the, replace the up switch too which is probably not far behind his twin brother...

Do it right, or do it twice :)
 
Thanks all for comments, FYI the boat is a 1999 Silverton 422 which is an aft cabin.
An I mentioned before, I have not discovered access to the tight wires after they pass through the starboard side of the rope locker which seems to be a completely sealed compartment except for wire holes and a hatch on top which is on the opposite side as the foot switches. The foot switches enter in the top of the compartment and the wire passes out without any slack in a short run. There is no access from the top deck to the "compartment" where the wires pass into.

Yesterday, with the assistance of my grandson, I pulled off the mattress in the forward stateroom and found several storage hatches (which I never use) through the plywood panels that support mattress, but still no visible access to the compartment where the wiring exits the rope locker. The solenoid system is in the bilge at the galley about 15 foot aft of the rope locker, there is no way to trace the wiring between the solenoid and the switches. I am reluctant to pull off the vinyl covered panels in the wall of the stateroom to possibly get access to the wiring routing.
I will try to get my grandson to make some sort of connection in the rope locker when he visits again. It's not urgent since I can operate the windlass from the bridge.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mdoherty

You can always improve the reliability of the parallel connector by putting two of them on.

Click to expand...

Are we talking about those blue cinch type connectors with a pinching blade? These are absolutely horrible and become almost worthless in a damp environment. They have also been the cause of many automotive aftermarket installed equipment fires.
Bill
 
Bill,
I am planning to try the crimped butt connectors, but since I can only get one hand through the hatch to get on the old wire, I am hoping to that my Grandson can get to it. If so we will still tape it up to avoid the moisture environment.
I am leery of the cinch type connector in the rope locker environment unless there are better ones than I have used in the past.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Kevdon22

Bill,
I am planning to try the crimped butt connectors, but since I can only get one hand through the hatch to get on the old wire, I am hoping to that my Grandson can get to it. If so we will still tape it up to avoid the moisture environment.
I am leery of the cinch type connector in the rope locker environment unless there are better ones than I have used in the past.

Click to expand...

I'd get a hold of a Pro if you can't replace the wire or use the proper marine grade connectors. Tape will do nothing but trap condensation possibly making it worse. These are horrible connectors even when used under the best conditions.
Bill
 
This is something that you need to maintain, so if the mfg did not make this accessible, you should run new wires such that you can maintain them. The only connections I make anymore are crimps with heat shrink on top both to seal, as well as to stabilize the connection. Finding the naked crimps and separate adhesive heat shrink is a little more effort, but worth it for dramatically longer serviceable connections.

I've done this exact job three times in the last three tears, only once on my own boat. The other two were boaters I encountered at anchor. These switches are always in a wet environment, both externally and also from the high humidity on the backside from the chain locker.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Capt. Bill1

If all else fails, you might be able to use these:
http://www.blazingproducts.com/products/connectors/BVS_connectors.html

Click to expand...
The only problem I see with these connectors is they limit the wire size you can use. The largest Pro style does take #10 to 12 though that might be large enough since it's a low current circuit.
I still think it's best to properly splce in additional wire with a service loop as needed for future maintenance. Otherwise your going to have the same problem at some point again.
Bill
 
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