Replacing Joker Valve

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rtribble

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On two seperate occasions now we have found "smelly stuff" in our Raritan Crown heads bowl after an extended absence( 1-2 mounths) from our boat and with the holding tank 1/3-1/2 full.
Usualy we pump out before that long an intravel between when the holding tanks have passed the halfway mark and haven't had any problems other than the two occasions mentioned.
I'm thinking a replacement of the joker valve may be in order and would like some input on how to go about this without a big mess at the head.
The configuration of my head has the outlet/jokervalve at the back of the head and right next to the bulkhead with very little room to work/catch waste. Any ideas on how to limit the amount of waste matterial when disconecting the outlet from the head?
 
I assume you get backflow because the discharge hose goes uphill to the tank fitting? Can you disconnect that hose at the tank end and lower it to where it's even with or below the joker valve, and have the contents of the hose run out into some kind of container?

Or, if you have a vacuum oil extractor, you might thread its tube into that hose from the tank end and reach all the way down to the low point (depending how long your discharge hose is) and extract the contents.

Of course this would be after flushing a ton of fresh water through and pumping out the tank.
 
Addressing just the j-valves. I replaced them on a '97 SR Sundancer. First I pumped the tank and had the marina run lots of fresh water through. I'm not sure it was necessary but better safe than sorry. The rest was easy - just disconnecting the hoses and getting the four valves out. Be sure to note which way they point and I was told not to line their "duck bills" up, but rather turn each set of two so they are 90 degrees rotated from each other. Good luck!
 
I'm pretty sure the discharge hose goes into the top of the holding tank which would place it higher than the joker valve. We have thought we were flushing enough water to clear the line of most waste but other family members do use the boat sometimes so can't always control that.
We have a small shop vac. that might work better to extract residue before disconecting the joker.
 
There is only one valve in a crown. If you left any water in the head it might just be that water that went rancid. But after a month or two you'd think it should be dry.
What ever part of the hose that is before the tank and above the head will try to drain back, I have a large low plastic "pan" that I hold the hose over when removed from the head. If the joker is bad it will start leaking as soon as the fitting is parted from the head, move fast in removing the old joker and inserting the new one, once the new one is in any leak will be very small. Oh before you start flush a lot of fresh water thru the head.
 
Pump lots and lots of water through. Pump out holding tank -- this will remove some of the residual water in the waste line, too. Place a rag on the floor under the hose, and place a shallow foil pan on top of the rag, under the hose (assuming there's clearance for all of this). Put on a paper mask. Have rags/sponges handy to wipe up any spill. Disassemble hose, replace valve, reassemble. Make sure the duck bills are the right orientation -- I think they're supposed to be vertical not horizontal.

I'm baffled that so many boat designs place the holding tank "uphill" from the head. Does anyone know why this is so common?
 
"Does anyone know why this is so common?"

Room. While it is considered necessary to have a head aboard, it consumes a great deal of valuable cubeage. In an effort to reduce the problem, the actual head enclosure is often placed as low as possible in order to gain additional headroom, without increasing deck height above the waterline. Then you need to find a place for the H/T, which requires two hull-side fittings ( pump out and vent ). You can't place the H/T just anywhere. Often this means that the H/T ( which is, I suspect, not a primary design consideration ) gets placed in a less-then-optimum" location.

Anyway, that is how I view it.
 
JoeBTB says when the system has four valves (two and two), as my Sealand VacuFlush did, the bills should line up - vertical or maybe horizontal. As I said, I was taught to NOT line them up - that one should be vertical and its mate horizontal. Let's see, hum, if I add horizontal and the next one vertical we are up to four different combinations. I could go on! Is there a supportible final definative word on this point or are we entering the area of urban - no, no - strike that; I mean marine legend?
 
Interesting. My SeaLand Vac---- required four. Two in two out. I remember because I paid the bill at Skipper Bud's parts window; a place I always try to avoid.
 
I don't think it really makes any difference which way the slot on the C253 is aligned. I have never paid any attention to their alignment when I have replaced them and never had a problem. You could use the C254 which has 2 slots and it wouldn't make any difference at all....Personally I like the the C253 better
 
The replacement part I've got is the C253, also don't see where the alignment would make any difference but will follow that shown in the parts diagram.
Will be at the boat this week and change it then, all the input is greatly appreciated-thanks.
 
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