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rotted decking
- Thread starter dexter2
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2000
- RO Number
- 3238
- Messages
- 4,831
"Any suggestions?"
Perhaps a little bit more detail on the boat and material. As stated the question is a little like, "How much does it cost to buy a new house?"
Is this a wood deck? fiberglass over plywood? have you checked to see if the supports for the deck need replacement? Pictures work wonders; got any?
We will be glad to help. We just need a bit more info.
Perhaps a little bit more detail on the boat and material. As stated the question is a little like, "How much does it cost to buy a new house?"
Is this a wood deck? fiberglass over plywood? have you checked to see if the supports for the deck need replacement? Pictures work wonders; got any?
We will be glad to help. We just need a bit more info.
Assuming that this is an open cockpit boat, you will just cut out the old deck--(which most likely had a plywood core) and put in a new deck. I recently purchased a boat only 4 years old, with 120 hours on the engine, and 3 seasons of use, but had been stored in New York, without being shrink wraped. Water had stood in the cockpit and the balsa core was not sealed at the edges of the deck hatches, nor was the glass (one layer of mat). A person had jumped on the deck and cracked it. We cut out the bad balsa core, and used Nidacore (a poly prop hexacell, with glass mat on top and bottom, which is impervious to rot)to replace the bad part of the deck. We used a shall blade (3 1/4" diameter)carbide circular saw to cut thru the top layer of glass and the core, but left the roving and mat on the bottom.
If I were doing the deck replacement with plywood, I would use marine plywood, saturated edges and any cuts with epoxy. Put a layer of biaxial 12 oz or 18oz cloth over the top with epoxy, fair and roll on a non skid. Use cloth to tab into the hull sides and any bulkheads. Not all that big a job, IF there is not more damage below the deck. But there is a fairly good chance that stringers are damaged also, so that complicates the job, and they should be replaced at the same time.
What size and type of boat is this?
If I were doing the deck replacement with plywood, I would use marine plywood, saturated edges and any cuts with epoxy. Put a layer of biaxial 12 oz or 18oz cloth over the top with epoxy, fair and roll on a non skid. Use cloth to tab into the hull sides and any bulkheads. Not all that big a job, IF there is not more damage below the deck. But there is a fairly good chance that stringers are damaged also, so that complicates the job, and they should be replaced at the same time.
What size and type of boat is this?
Boat is a 1986 imperial with orginal 1/2 inch plywood with carpet over it. The sides of the bilge are punky so I am not sure what all I am going to find. From the gas tank foreward seems to be sound. I plan on making this a fishing boat so I will be getting rid of the carpet and putting vinal down. Thanks for any and all info.
quote:
Originally posted by thataway4
Assuming that this is an open cockpit boat, you will just cut out the old deck--(which most likely had a plywood core) and put in a new deck. I recently purchased a boat only 4 years old, with 120 hours on the engine, and 3 seasons of use, but had been stored in New York, without being shrink wraped. Water had stood in the cockpit and the balsa core was not sealed at the edges of the deck hatches, nor was the glass (one layer of mat). A person had jumped on the deck and cracked it. We cut out the bad balsa core, and used Nidacore (a poly prop hexacell, with glass mat on top and bottom, which is impervious to rot)to replace the bad part of the deck. We used a shall blade (3 1/4" diameter)carbide circular saw to cut thru the top layer of glass and the core, but left the roving and mat on the bottom.
If I were doing the deck replacement with plywood, I would use marine plywood, saturated edges and any cuts with epoxy. Put a layer of biaxial 12 oz or 18oz cloth over the top with epoxy, fair and roll on a non skid. Use cloth to tab into the hull sides and any bulkheads. Not all that big a job, IF there is not more damage below the deck. But there is a fairly good chance that stringers are damaged also, so that complicates the job, and they should be replaced at the same time.
What size and type of boat is this?
Boat is a 1986 Imperial closed bow with orginal 1/2 inch plywood.Bilge sides are punky. I want to replace bad decking tear up carpet and put vinal or fiberglass the floor and make a fishing boat out of this. Has a 120 alpha in it and it runs great. Thank you for any and all suggestions.
quote:
Originally posted by Radioactive
"Any suggestions?"
Perhaps a little bit more detail on the boat and material. As stated the question is a little like, "How much does it cost to buy a new house?"
Is this a wood deck? fiberglass over plywood? have you checked to see if the supports for the deck need replacement? Pictures work wonders; got any?
We will be glad to help. We just need a bit more info.
Actually a circular saw with a carbide blade is better than a chainsaw as you can adjust the depth of the cut. Once the rotted wood is out, I'd reinforce the edges of the cuts with wood doublers well sealed with fiberglass. Then I'd cut a piece of plywood to fit, fiberglass the back and edges of it to seal it then glass it in place. It's not quite that simple but it's the best I can do from here.
Polyester resin does not make a greally good sealant for plywood--there are many boats with rotten stringers, decks and cabin sides etc which were sealed with polyester resin--Epoxy is much better at sealing edges of ply. We like synthetic core materials, and they are not much more expensive than the ply--plus don't rot. The biggest cost of any of these repairs is the labor.--either in your time or the repair guy at $100 an hour! On the other hand, if you just want to get the boat on the water, ply is cheap and strong. The other major problem is not properly sealing any holes in decking--once water gets into a screw hole, it will eventually cause rot.
A technique being used more and more currently is to spray or roll truck bed liner type material over decks. Of course it does not solve core rot problems, but over both teak and glass decks, it will give a good surface, which is water tight, resistant to puncture, and non skid. This is something to consider if there is a deck which is just beginning to exibit problems--relitatively cheap and will extend the life of a boat many years.
A technique being used more and more currently is to spray or roll truck bed liner type material over decks. Of course it does not solve core rot problems, but over both teak and glass decks, it will give a good surface, which is water tight, resistant to puncture, and non skid. This is something to consider if there is a deck which is just beginning to exibit problems--relitatively cheap and will extend the life of a boat many years.