SHE'S ALL OURS! Now for some help.

Play, do you or any of the other 300 owners (Hey Jim) happen to have the part numbers for the various zincs on your outdrives? I'm trying to build a database so that when I need one of these consumeable parts, I don't have to spend half a day doing it. I looked in the Boatfix catalog but that seems to show a number of different zincs for the same area. I'm guessing that different years took differnt combinations of zincs. Since several of us have the '89 they should be the same right? I know what you mean about the soot, the marina where my boat sat for the last two years is less than a mile from a coal fired power plant. When I cleaned the eisenglass, the black dirt that came off was amazing. I've always use Cetol on my old boat and will on this one too. I'm going to try the 303 and see how that works.
Play, it will be a while until I have an electronics suite as nice as what you have, for this year, I concentrating on getting up and running and cosmetically ship shape. My only electronic project will be a color chartplotter. The GPS they let go with the boat is ancient and not very nice. My old GPSMAP 76S handheld puts it to shame. I'll use it for backup.
 
My boat is on a trailer and we boat in freshwater, so zincs get replaced about every 10 plus years. I did replace the Port zinc that is in the prop wash. I bumped it and it fell off. Not much left of it. The starboard is in good shape, but I'll probably replace it anyway. I also should replace those that sit on the trim tabs, but I couldn't even budge the screw that holds them on.

For the zinc in the propwash, I just wandered into West Marine and found one for an Alpha. I got magnesium for freshwater. The label is still attached to it even after running it last weekend! The part number will be different for you salt water boaters. I think they sell an Alpha kit in aluminum, magnesium or zinc too? That would be the way to go. I guess if I was in Saltwater and moored, I'd pay a LOT more attention.

Chris:

I just sold the 250 DA and the guy REALLY wanted the GPS MAP76. OK, for a hundred bucks. DOH! I'm regretting that decision already. Now I want another one! I'm also trying to figure out which chartplotter to add. I see some Garmin 2006C's refurbished for around $560 and missed a 2010 for $700. I like the 545, but think the screen is a little small? What are you considering?
 
I was thinking about the 545 too but I agree taht screen is a bit small. I may look at other brands before I spend my stimulus check(lol). I really like a big screen unit like a Raymarine C80, but the price is big too. I think I'll be researching this purchase for a while.
 
I've been trying to figure it out since January! A friend has a Garmin 2010C and it's gorgeous with lots of detail and easy to see. I don't want to spend that much for a new one, so I've been looking at the used ones. It's not an easy decision! If I buy Garmin, I'd need to get chips for the San Juans and the inland lakes around here. Unfortunately one of our favorite lakes is not in the garmin maps! It's got the surface detail, but no bottom contours at all. It's a large lake too! I like the 545 with the internal antenna, but I'm just not sure that's big enough. The next step seemed to be the 2006C remans for 560. That's kind of in the lead right now.

Did you ever get your filter #'s? I'm home and can run out to see if they are visible or not?
 
The big fuel filter on my boat is a Fram part number: C1110PL Boatfix shows them at $6.92 and I haven't seen anything cheaper of course!
 
Jim, Play et al.. How do you clean the dash down by the windshield? I must be too short, I can't seem to get all the way down into that groove by the windshield. We spent yesterday cleaning the interior and cockpit, what a job! The interior wasn't too bad, vacum, wipe down surfaces etc. The cockpit was another story. This boat sat for about two years and I'm not sure how hard it was cleaned prior to that. To make it worse, the boat sat in a marina about a mile from a coal fired power plant. There was a thin black film on all the decks, vinyl and seating. I though a bucket of soapy water and brush would do it, WRONG. That black was stuck tight. I had to scrub using Spray Nine and a magic eraser in many places to get it off. there was some mildew too. I'm going to treat the vinyl with 3M vinyl conditioner this weekend. Next we have to wash and wax the hull, what fun that will be.
 
I kind of lay on the dash and cram a paper towel/rag up there and push it along the depression at the windshield. It is easier to do it with all my instruments off the dash. There are a couple places where I have to drag/push the towel along with a stick (short mop handle). Bottom line is it's not easy and you just need to be a bit inventive to get something up there. I think every fly/gnat/bug that dies on the boat ends up at that location. Running the crevice tool on the vac along that joint is a regular maintenance procedure.

We have the same issue with coal soot. It's a maintenance nightmare. This was the first greeting of the carferry "Badger" this year. Fortunately, the wind was in a favorable direction that day.

smoke.jpg
 
WELL, that ferry is puting out about 100 times more smoke than the power plant I'm dealing with! The plant must have scrubbers on the stacks since I cannot actually see smoke, but I'm sure there is soot and fly ash. You on the other hand certainly have a visable soot issue. Misery loves company. I agree with the dead bug theory, was the same on my 260 Searay but the stretch to get into the windshield crevis was shorter. I'll have to have my youngest daughter climb on the dash and slide her arm into the gap and see if she can get the crud before I apply the 303.

BTW why did Searay put the hour meters way down by your feet? That dash has plenty of room for them. My electronics panel rubs on them every time I open it, what were they thinking?

That ferry looks like an old converted LST from WWII. There used to be an old ferry like it in DE back in the '60s, was an LST.
 
Getting to the base of the windshield isn't easy. I do what Play mentions, a rag and a stick when the dust or dead bugs start building up. I would go real easy with the Magic Eraser. It scrubs off the outer layer of vinyl and will always be duller than the surrounding vinyl. Of course, now it's too late to warn you! Still, sometimes it's better than a stain. I'm glad we don't have any coal plants around or ferries puking that stuff out. We just get dust and that usually just rinses right off.

I don't know why the hour meters are down there. I don't recall it rubbing the gauges though? I hate the fact that I have to have a key to open it up. The 250 DA had a ring that I could twist to open and then lock with a key if I wanted too. I may make a slight modification there!

I'm going through withdrawals! We're having new axles put on the trailer and we're mooring it for the week. I HATE the fact that I can't see it, play on it or clean it since it's not parked in the driveway! The timing was perfect though. We were 8 miles from the launch when the middle left bearing let go. I just ripped out the cotter pin, spun the nut and pulled the hub and tire off. We went the last 8 miles on the two remaining wheels! Launched, played for the weekend and then drove the trailer home so the guys could start on today! I'll be glad when I get REAL boat trailer axles on the trailer! Leaving it in the water was hard!

Waxing!
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I still have to get a PC7424 to make that job easier. I've always done boats by hand and Advil! I think the 7424 will speed things up a bit and it's a good excuse for another power tool!
 
Already knew the downside of the Magic eraser but thanks. I won't have to worry about a dull spot, I had to do the entire seat surface to get the soot, mildew, sunscreen etc.. off. I will likely have these recovered someday but I need the boat to be ready and useable for this season so I'll make do with some things I would have replaced had we got the boat sooner in the season. I'm going to try some 3M vinyl restorer to see if I can get a shine back and to seal the pores a bit. I turned out mch better than I thought when I saw how tough the grime was and the staining left by the mildew. I have a cheap Harbor Freight polisher I want to try, if I can get a good shine with it, I may think about a better polisher. If it doesn't shine up, I'll use Vertglass on it. I've used it with great success on my 260 for the last seven years and it shines as well as a new boat. There are people who actually hate polymer coatings, I think because they are in a hurry and don't properly prepare the surface first and do yearly maint. coats. Others don't like the fact that after several years you have to remove the coating reapply. Its not hard if you use an commercial floor stripper, kind of washes off then. I like the stuff and the compliments I get on my boat. You only want to use polymers on older dull finishes, it will not give nice results on newer shiney boats.
Hope we get temps above the 50s by Memorial Day weekend so I can get some work done, oh and no rain either.
 
I've been trying to figure out what to use on our 300 DA as well. We used something with PTEF on our 250 DA and it seemed to hold a shine a lot longer. It also repelled dirt and things just rinsed off very easy. I may go that route again and I'm guessing that it is a polymer based product.

Recovering seats is a winter project!! I wouldn't want the boat out of commmission and maybe the 3M stuff will make it shine so you don't have to recover? I should probably do that on our vinyl since we haven't touched it yet. After spending money to buy the boat, a huge tax bill, GPS and now replacing the trailer axles we're not doing anything else to the boat! It shouldn't need anything, but I think it could use a new mooring cover in a year or two. That will help the wallet rebound a little bit too. IOt's amazing how much you can spend AFTER the purchase isn't it? We're still thinking about an inflatable, but I'm hoping we can just continue to use the 2.5 person kayak if we can carry it on the back or alongside somehow.
 
Play, Thanks again for the parts link. I just order the pieces for my windows as well. I wish I had known about that earlier. I was missing some hinges and they have them! DOH!! Oh well, I found some at Ace that worked using the original holes. Thanks again!!
 
I'd like to find someone to rebuild the side windows. The seals in the tracks are going to turn to dust eventually. So far I don't have any major issues but I'm guessing it's only a matter of time before there's going to be a sealing failure. No problem sharing the parts source. A great example of the value of the web and the helpful/friendly attitudes of the boating fraternity.
 
Did Taylor build these windows? If so, they probablly have replacement gaskets available. I called them a few years ago about windshield vent seals and it was a stock item. I will likely have to replace my seals also since they look dry now. I don't want to open those window since they aren't leaking now, why disturb them. I think Taylor is in NY. Maybe we can get Boatered quantity discount if we each order a set?
 
It wouldn't surprise me if the seals were available somewhere. They could very well be Taylormade. The problem would be the disassembly that will be required to rebuild the windows. That type of renovation gives me the jitters. I'm OK with spit and polish but removing a window gives me visions of owning a boat with a 5 foot long hole in the side of the cabin. I've been known to destroy things trying to figure out how they come apart. In this case, it's not like you can run down to the marine supply and pick up a new one.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Play Dough

I've been known to destroy things trying to figure out how they come apart. In this case, it's not like you can run down to the marine supply and pick up a new one.

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Sure you can! Just keep the window and find a new boat to attach it to! Problem solved!

I remember looking for the window seal stuff for the 250 DA. I decided I didn't need it after all, but it was available and Taylor rings a bell. Here is what I stored:

"The small gasket is sold by Taylor Made Systems New York, their item#41100097 rb2@gr5t .80 - .90 per ft. Their phone number is 518 773-0636. Speak with Robin or Kristen. They're good and will send a sample."

I never actually phoned them so I don't know if it's a good number or if the names are right either.
 
I found some good part info at taylormarine.com for windows and plastic trim and hatches that Sea Ray used that may be valuable in the future. The plastic window covers are listed here. They're actually called weep hole covers. It also is quite possible that the rubber/plastic sections for the window channels are there as well.
 
Where on their site did you find these items? I looked and only found generic stuff like fenders and boat covers.
 
Go to their "product catalog" then "hardware, assessories and parts" then to the various sheets within the page. Some seem to be specific to Sea Ray, while others are generic. Other categories like "hatches" have the product that was used on our vintage of Sea Ray. I'm sure the phone number for technical assistance will get you some valuable advice as well when the time comes to stop that pesky leak.
 
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