Shower Sump

W

wshiley

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exMember
Joined
Nov 23, 2001
RO Number
6811
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20
I have a 1987 Searay 340 EC and the shower drains into a open box in the bilge. Works fine except when you leave the dock and get up on plane the water in the shallow sump runs to the back of the bilge. The other real issue is that there is always an inch or two of water sitting in the sump and even with rinsing with cold water the sump starts to smell and grow crud. Is there any product that can safely be dumped into the shower sump to kill the growth and smell periodically?
 
I use Simple Green in the sump. I put about half a cup in it when we finish a weekend. That way nithing grows in it. I thought about bleach, but didn't know if it would damage hoses or any other soft goods in or associated with the sump system.
 
not sure what you mean by open box in the bilge. the typical sump is about 12" big or so with a cover on top so water doens't splash out. if yours is just missing a cover it's easy to do with some plexiglass.

if by box, you meant a boxes area in the bilge, then you may want to add a real sump, they're about $100 incl the pump and switch.

with a cover on, smell isnt' an issue.. second reason for the cover.
 
Agree with both above. Keep in mind that the sump does need to be cleaned out occassionally. Hair, soap and crude does build-up and can interfere with the float switch.
 
Pix would be a great deal of help. I have never heard of the shower sump in the bilge. Doesn't mean it does not exist, just means I have never heard of it.

Most sump boxes I have seen are under the cabin sole.
 
The 87 Seray used the bilge as the shower sump. It may be a bad design but that is the way it is. The bilge has three bilge pumps. One forward right before the bulkhead (shower and air drain here) and one rear by the transom. The third is a direct wired high water pump. The forward pump sits in a shallow well area (3-4 inches deep) between the stringers and this is where the shower and air conditioner condensation drain into. There is always water movement thru this design but there is also a couple of inches of water left behind that tends to gather growth. I had tried a little bleach but that also takes care of float switch wire. I do clean this area out often but would would something like white vinegar help control the scum and growth or are there some commercial products.

When I get to the boat this weekend I can get a couple of pictures. Just went to the Searay site in the archives and they do not have any info or pics.
 
Ya learn something new here every day. If at all possible, place a conventional sump in the bilge. If not, fashion a cover out of plexiglass from homedepotlowes and screw it into the top of the shallow well area. How does the hair get filtered from the pump?
 
Yikes, I don't think I would ever shower on the boat if it drained into the bilge! What a terrible design!
 
I'd definitely try to put in one of those sumps shown on Vic's link. It would be a worth-while addition for both shower and AC output.

Newer Sea Rays use the Rule version. There are a couple things I don't like about it, though. The cover is screwed down, and on my boat it is quite difficult to undo all the screws to clean out the screen. My cordless drill won't fit in the space. Also, to prevent the pump from cycling when water drains from the hose into the box, Rule uses a rubber check value. The problem is that (on mine, anyway) the pump would not get the water through the value, so the pump ran continually. Seems like a poor design. I had to remove the stock valve and splice in another type.

On odor, I've found that even with a sump you can get bad odors. My head had a nasty sour odor that was hard to locate. I tracked it down to the shower sump, coming back up to hose. Now I flush some enviro-friendly Star Bright bilge cleaner down the drain from time-to-time and after every use of the shower; odors are greatly reduced.
 
My 86 Searay was the same way-- shower drainded directly to the bilge. No sump boax. I installed one and never had another problem (with that system).
 
Dumped directly into the bilge!!??? Eeeeeeeuuucccchhhhh! That's gonna stink bad after a few hots summer days cooking all those bugs!
 
Never tried it but have heard by a few that a small amount of peroxide works to kill the germs (stink).
 
I have a 1989 380 aft and that was the same way. I hooked up one of those pumps that are meant for showers that you have to turn on when you get in. It's a little noisy but it works good. It pumps directly from the shower drain overboard. Works good now and no smell.
 
My boat has a shower sump box that is about 12" square. My galley sink, head sink and shower all drain into this box. The box is covered but it is a PITA to unscrew the cover. I recently replaced the pump inside the box and it was a pain.

To maintain the drain and kill the odor, buy a "live bacterial enzyme" product from a local janitorial supply distributor and pour some down your drains whenever you get ready to leave the boat. The live enzymes will eat the grease and hair from your shower and kill any odors.It also keeps your lines nice and clean.
 
Try using urinal cakes. They last awhile and I do not think they would damage the hoses or wires.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I like the idea of pumping the shower directly thru a diaphram pump over board. I had this on a old Chris. Installing a shower sump box in the same area would not be too difficult. It may be an option for a winter project. The other with the bilge cleaner and live enzyme would certainly help alot and would even help a Shower sump box stay clean..Thanks again...
 
A good healthy squirt of Raritan's "CP - cleans Potties" down the shower drain once a week will also help to dissolve the soap scum and hair, and leave it smelling nice and fresh. Add it on a Sunday night, before leaving the boat, to give it plenty of time to work.

http://www.boatfix.com/bykeywordnew2.asp?textfield=1PCP22&texttype=2

There are two prices listed there for the same item... go with the cheaper price?
 
To make cleaning out the sump box a little quicker and easier, try replacing the philips headed self taping screws with double ended studs that are self taping on one side and machine threaded on the other. Then put wing nuts and lock washers on the stud tops. No more tools required to remove the top.
 
Or you can purchase Knurled Knob type screws and your fav big box Depot and achieve the same result.
 
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