I have a 2004 boat with vacuflush head. The first 3 seasons it worked fine and I left the pump switch on whenever we were on the boat. Last year the pump would cycle frequently (5-10 minutes). I tightened all hose clamps and didn't help. I replaced the ball valve seal and this improved, maybe cycled every 30 minutes. This season it is cycling ever 5 minutes again. The water level in bowl does not drop, so leak is somewhere else. Any hints on how to troubleshoot or most likely cause?
vacuflush leaking
- Thread starter chap290
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- Sep 16, 2003
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if water level stays the same in the bowl, then it's the duck bills. dont' know which VF you have, probably the all in one compact vac tank/pump. there are one pair of DB on each side of the pump (inlet and outlet). on the compact unit, undo the quick disconnect fitting on the inlet side (top of the tank), remove the hose off the outlet, remove the 4 screws at the base of teh pump and pull the pump off.
then you can unscrew the inlet and outlet fittings and replace teh 4 DBs. Make sure they are seated correctly, i usually put a little bit of soap so that they dont twist. dont' overtighten these fittings so they dont' twist.
it's a quick job, wear some gloves, it's not that bad... especially if you've had kids and dealt with diapers
then you can unscrew the inlet and outlet fittings and replace teh 4 DBs. Make sure they are seated correctly, i usually put a little bit of soap so that they dont twist. dont' overtighten these fittings so they dont' twist.
it's a quick job, wear some gloves, it's not that bad... especially if you've had kids and dealt with diapers
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2002
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Jim,
Duck bills. My daughter flushed tampons down there and I had to take apart the whole unit.
It is like 6 bolts and the whole thing lifts up. Easy to take apart, but very messy and smelly.
Have plenty of fresh air and change of clothes. Once something gets stuck in a duck bill, it will cycle.
I would offer to help when I come down, but thats a job I don't wish on anyone!!!
Duck bills. My daughter flushed tampons down there and I had to take apart the whole unit.
It is like 6 bolts and the whole thing lifts up. Easy to take apart, but very messy and smelly.
Have plenty of fresh air and change of clothes. Once something gets stuck in a duck bill, it will cycle.
I would offer to help when I come down, but thats a job I don't wish on anyone!!!
If the duck bills don't fix it, it is probably the PVC inlet elbow at the tank that goes through the uniseal. Mine was causing a vacuum leak after the duckbills were replaced and all things tightened. This applies to only the combo units called Vacuum Generators.
In fact even if it is the duck bills, on that unit you have to move the tank around to get at the pump hold down screws to change the down stream duckbills. In doing that you most probably will disturb the uniseal causing it to start leaking vacuum. Then it will have to be replaced too. This has happened to me twice...once when a tech replaced the duckbills and once when I replaced them. That inside set of duckbills requires a lot of movement of the pieces and parts.
In fact even if it is the duck bills, on that unit you have to move the tank around to get at the pump hold down screws to change the down stream duckbills. In doing that you most probably will disturb the uniseal causing it to start leaking vacuum. Then it will have to be replaced too. This has happened to me twice...once when a tech replaced the duckbills and once when I replaced them. That inside set of duckbills requires a lot of movement of the pieces and parts.
marykhubby
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another option: if it's easy, turn off the electric to the pump when not in use.
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2003
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- 12,183
depends on bad the leak is. if it cycles on every 5 minutes, you will have normal vaccum to flush so turning off the switch is a practical temporary solution.
if the leak is external, (uniseal on elbow) you will hear it (just shut off everything else on the boat incl. Air Con.
one the DB I replaced a few days ago,(vac gen model), i was able to remove the oulet hose on the pump, unscrew the quick connect fitting on the inlet, remove 2 of the 4 srews holding the pump down, loose the other two, and pull the pump without disturbing the elbow and uniseal.
if the leak is external, (uniseal on elbow) you will hear it (just shut off everything else on the boat incl. Air Con.
one the DB I replaced a few days ago,(vac gen model), i was able to remove the oulet hose on the pump, unscrew the quick connect fitting on the inlet, remove 2 of the 4 srews holding the pump down, loose the other two, and pull the pump without disturbing the elbow and uniseal.
Cycling every 5 minutes is a substantial leak. You will only have full (enough) vacuum "right" after the pump goes off. Otherwise, the vacuum is already leaking out. And when using the head for #'s greater than 1, the old addage of "flush soon and flush often" is good advise.....
Guys, I am the pro from dover on this topic - Why! because after 3 days of squeezing in the most unaccesable places, I decided to tear out all of the plumbing (20 year old boat) and replace all the hoses, fittings, and joints. Then withthe help of Sea Caost in Ampville, NY. I bought a vacuum tester from them ($60) and tested each connection out with the pump out of the system for leaks. Afetr each connection was verified as no loss of vacuum I moved to the next and so on.. I found two elbows and on "T" connection was leaking. Replaced the fittings (special hose connectors but standard PVC elbows) and brand new hoses (not bought from WM as theri stuff is poor quality) Soaked the hose in hot water for flexability and soaped the connections (not WD-40) for easy slip on. USed new clamps aligned 180 degrees from tighting screws to prevent warpiong of connectors. Hand tight then 1/2 turn with ratchet. The system is perfect - not a single turn on at all.