Water system winterization

I think I'll try the air method today and if I'm satisfied that I got everything out I'll skip the pink.
 
I have been using the Air method for 5 years just like Robyns Nest, no issues and all.
If I remember right Vic recently posted that Pink could damage some Ice Makers- but I may have been having a CL moment.
 
yes pink does damage the ice trays in the makers. It pits the metal.

Pinks is messy and kinda greasy.

Pink makes the water taste funny.

Pink turns your water pipes pink.

Pink cost money.

Pick is heavy to carry.

Pink takes up space in your car, house and boat.

Pink comes in plastic bottles that fill up land fills.

I use the least amount possible. Still need pink for the holding tank and the motors, the washing machine and sink drains and the shower sump.
 
So I blow out all my water systems today. It was very easy to do. To be safe I installed bypass kits on both hot water tanks and drain them before starting the process (for some dumb reason one of my hot water tanks does not have a drain valve PIA). There is a lot of plumbing on my boat two wash downs three showers four sinks two toilets one washer dryer an ice maker and last but not least windshield washer.
I blow every connection out several times so I'm confident I got it all out. Then I disconnected the output from the pump and flushed that out. With the output to the pump disconnected I run the fresh water pump to drain the tank I was not happy with the amount of water still in the feed line so I pour one gallon of pink in the holding tank and ran it through the pump not into my water lines. In the spring I'll flush out the tank and I'll be ready to go. Being the first time I was doing this it took a lot longer then it should have but I'm happy with the results.

I also blow out the A/C lines but they seem to be self draining and there was next to nothing in them. I don't think I really needed to do anything the way the lines are run there is no low spot for water to collect it just runs out the output or but down to the strainer, very cool.

Next I'll try out the built in oil change pump that I have never used. Always did the easy way paid someone else.

I enjoyed the work today I wont say it was fun but it wasn't difficult and I learned and enjoyed. I'm sure I saved some money at the same time.
Thanks for starting this thread Hogan you motivated me to get something done. If you have any question about fitting or adapters needed let no know. It was mostly self explanatory.
 
Remember not to exceed 60PSI of compressed air......if you blow thru the city water fitting.
 
My gauge never read higher then 50 and was down at 40 most of the time. But very good advise could do some major damage or at least hard to find damage if you use too much pressure for sure.
 
We never bypassed the pump but I did bypass the heater and drain it as best as possible. What I did was blow out the system by working from the longest runs in. Once all of the water was out, and you can tell by the lack of "barking", I disconnected the pump inlet and outlet, and ran pink through it. I also have a switch that enables the water solenoid to the ice maker so I can control it with regard to the rest of the boat and ensure it blows clear. PITA to install initially due to pulling out the ice maker but it shortens the winterization of the plumbing with air.
I usually used pressure around 40 psi tho.

The compressor would shut down at 40 psi. I went to the longest run and opened the valves quickly. When the air slowed down I'd shut the valve let the compressor build pressure again and open the other temperature and repeat. When the longest run pipes were quiet except for air rushing, I'd work my way back and then repeat a few times.

Just make sure the lines leading up to the pump are clear. Ours were right at the tank and easily drained. You can run a pump until it cavetates and shut it down and then blow it out. The compressor should be attached at the dockside inlet which will be a parallel input with regard to the pump.

Never had an issue.
 
I do both, air first from the city water connection, around 80 pounds of pressure for several minutes. I then close all the faucets and apply pink under pressure from a bilge pump mounted in a 5 gallon bucket. I then proceed to open the faucets one at time. Every one of them, 3 sinks, 2 toilets and the shower spit out clear water for about a second before turning pink. Is it enough to harm anything? I don’t know, but I sure sleep better during our long cold winters.

To answer Hogan’s question when I am done with the above I disconnect the line before the pump and stick it in a gallon of pink and repeat the above.

To each their own and whatever works for them.

Niles
 
Note, our pump is a Galley Maid, non diaphram type.
 
Hogan:
To answer your question, it depends on what type of pump you have. I have a diaghram pump for my fresh water system. It can run dry without any damage. I connect my air compressor to the inlet side of the pump, and turn the pump on during the process of blowing air through the lines. Doing it this way insures that there isn't any water in the pump.
However, this will not work if you have a rubber impellor type pump, that will get damaged when run dry.

eric
 
I did the water system yesterday. I bypassed and drained the water heater first. Then I disconnected the output at the pump, let the pump remove last water from tank (into bilge). I then added 1/2 gallon to the water tank and pumped it all through the pump. I added some air to the dockside inlet which removed water at the leg to the pump. Apparently my dockside check valve is at the pump/filter/bladder housing. I replaced outlet to the pump and blew air.

Without a doubt this is the way I will go moving forward. The compressed air even blew debris through the lines (YUK!). It was much faster and I used about four gallons less than usual. The remaining 1/2 gallon went to the shower sump pump. Another gallon for the head and two more for the genset. I'm up to four gallons with only two engines and the A/C to go.

Eric, are you sure about your setup? Is the pump AFTER the dockside inlet? Does your pump run when connected to dockside or does the water flow through the diaghpram pump?
 
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