What is the verdict Wax Or Polish/Sealant?

  • Thread starter Thread starter RM
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In searching the web,I have come across several sites that recommend polishing first then cover that with a good wax.Their have been other members on this site that have stated the same.
In Prescott,dont you have any issues with the train causing the boats to sooty.
 
I used Poly-Glo on my 1987 34c on the topsides last spring and it looked great. Has anyone else had trouble with this stuff yellowing as mentioned above? I was considering using it on the hull this spring. I'd like to do the whole boat with it. Is that a bad thing to do, if so, why?
 
I wash my boats so often that I had a problem with poli-glow holding up. When it starts to yellow and peel off, it's a mess. Difficult to remove also. I'll never go that route again. Since then, I've always been able to bring a boat's gelcoat back with polish and wax.
 
Okay, thats it, I'm trying Buff Magic and Pro-Polish! After all thats been said here, I'm convinced. Just one problem.. . .where can I get it? What do I need for the proper equipment/tools/supplies to use it correctly? I want to do it right!
 
For the Buff Magic, a good, rotary polisher is what you need, Makita is what I use, I've seen some $70 machines that would work. With the rotary machine, buy a velcro backing plate and 2 or 3 wool compounding bonnets, get these at an auto body supply house or boatfix. Make sure they are the velcro type pads and not the kind that go onto a drill, I use 3M brand pads.

Buy one or two cans of Buff Magic and few cheap chip brushes, ones that will fit inside the can of Buff Magic. Duct Tape the can to the side of a 6 or 8 foot ladder and then paint the Buff Magic onto the hull in a 3 x 3 square. Go to town with the polisher, moving it around not leaving it in one spot for any period of time. Work the Buff Magic in and buff until it basically disappears.

Step back and look at how great it looks.

Pro Polish is applied with the same rotary wheel or an orbital using either foam or a wool polishing bonnet. It goes on like wax.

One great thing about Pro Polish is that it doesn't yellow like was does. That is my only beef with wax. It yellows.
 
Do a search on the www and you will find some that are cheaper than others.
 
Steve P., if you are home slipped in Clinton you should be able to find Buff Magic and Pro Polish in one of your local boating supply stores. Just be prepared to dig deep, not to worry though, a little bit goes a long ways.
 
I found a vendor that carries the full line of Yacht Brite products.
A 22oz. can of Buff Magic $27.
A bottle of Pro Polish $20.
But. . . . . they also have what's called Yacht Brite Seroius Shine. Has anyone used this? Is it used in conjunction with the Pro Polish or instead of the Pro Polish.
They also carry Yacht Bright Serious marine cleaner.
Should I use this with Buff Magic?
Any advice is appreciated!
 
I just use the Pro Polish after Buff Magic.

The Serious Shine I'm told can be used on eisenglass and on the fiberglass for a quick shine.

THe serious marine cleaner I've used to scrub the decks.
 
Great quick polish.Used on isenglass ,fiberglass,console,crystal over gauges..Wipe on wipe off,DONE
 
I wrote to PloyGlo and asked them about the yellowing and peeling.

They told me that PolyGlo WILL yellow after about 4-5 years! They said it should be re-applied every year for 3-4 years, then completely removed! They also told me that it will yellow if cleaned with the wrong cleaners, only to used very mild detergent. They said the PloyPrep has a shelf life of a couple of years and won't be effective in removing PolGlo.

I'm glad I only used this stuff 1 season and only on the topsides. This year its all coming off. I'll never go that route again!
 
Poliprep will clean off Poliglow, and it does it pretty well. The problem is that Poliprep has a shelf life of only about 6 months.

Try getting a new bottle of Poliprep and use it to remove the Poliglow. It will come off with much less effort than anything else.

I tried Poliglow on the last boat that I had (and wanted to sell). I found it gave more of a shine than anything else, and it helped sell the boat quickly.

My new boat is Awlgripped so I'm not going to use Poliglow on it. I do still keep the Poliprep around for cleaning up stains and things (haven't tried it on Awlgrip). I really like the Poliprep as a strong cleaner - even better than All Off. (It will strip wax also, so don't use it on your freshly waxed surfaces).
 
I found that Poly Glo is perfect for older boats that you want to look good for a quick sale.
But. . . .for my boat that I plan on keeping, I'd rather get a shine the way the pros do it, the right way. My PoliPrep is about 10 months old. It'll be interesting to see if it's still capable of removing the 8 coats of PolGlo I applied last June. I can't imagine applying 5-10 coats of this stuff every year for 4 or 5 years, then take it all off just to start the process all over again.
I certainly would not use PolyGlo on a newer boat!
 
Late, but adding my $0.02 worth. I am a research chemist by trade, and I trained and was certified in all the major lines of automotive refinishing systems a very long, long time ago. For years I have been a devoted wax-head. That changed this year - I am now trying a sealant "polish", specifically Yacht Brite's Pro Polish.

I just finished the spring buff and fluff ritual on our Sea Ray 330 Dancer. Last year it was heavy compound, fine polish (both 3M) and then Meguiar's Flagship Premium wax. The result was tremendous, and the Meguiar's product was easy on, easy off and gave a great look. But, as time passed I found it tenaciously collected dirt, which fed mildew growth in the coating. For the first couple of months a simple rewax of the affected areas did a good job of re-cleaning and re waxing the area. But after that it become increasing difficult to get the dirt, streaks and stains out. Summer weather here is not very conducive to rewaxing, so I let it go.

Last week I found getting all mildew stains out to be quite a challenge - it took a lot of aggressive cleaning. The Meguiar's product is easy to use, gives a great initial result and is extremely durable - I still had a well bonded coating this spring. But the dirt and mildew issue is a real problem.

This year I tried Buff Magic as the oxidation issue was mild. Boy am I impressed - its a great product. I have followed with the Pro Polish and hope this will do better as far as dirt and mildew go.

Added comment about using cleansers on gelcoat finishes. This is basically the same as compounding. The result will depend upon how aggressive the cleanser - "the "soft scrub" versions are generally a finer abrasive than the comparable dry versions. One thing to watch out for though is cleansers with bleach. Bleach is a fairly powerful oxidant and can lead to increasing the rate at which gelcoat oxidizes and can lead to oxidation deeper than just the surface. Two cleansers I have found useful on fiberglass are Bar Keepers Friend (dry but quite mild and bleach-free) and Liquid Zud (soft scrub type), which is bleach-free but contains oxalic acid which is great for removing rust stains, mildew, etc.
 
I'm waiting for some warm weather Eric so I too can start the Buff Magic, Pro Polish work. I've also heard that about products with bleach and avoid them like the plague.
 
Alright - you guys have me convinced. I'm bagging the usual 3M Finese-It II, and Collonite wax for Buff Magic and Pro-Polish. Getting old too Johnathan - so anything easier gets my attention.
 
Did more than half of my Center Console today with Buff Magic and it came out great. THe white gelcote looks brand new.

It also polished the stainless rubrail to like new condition as well.
 
Use Collinite's Fleet wax. Its a paste that lasts all season; well almost.
 
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