Winterizing single inboard

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bruizer

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This is how I do it for a 360 Chrysler. AF is 50/50 pink with rust inhibitor.

1 - Push one end of 3/4" heater hose into strainer housing top inlet and the other end in bucket with water hose.
2 - Start engine and let warm up until t'stat opens at around 150*
3 - Change oil and filter (Fram PH16, 1 qt of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer, 1 gal Shell Rotella T 15W-30) and then restart to make sure oil pressure is OK
4 - Remove the brass water drain plugs from both sides (let drain)
5 - Remove thermostat housing and t'stat
6 - Pour AF until pink comes out plug holes
7 - Replace plugs and top off with AF (it took 1.75 gal)
8 - Replace t'stat housing and snug bolts (leave t'stat out)
9 - Put AF in bucket and run engine until pink comes out exaust (sucked up 3.25 gal)
10 - Remove raw water pump and impeller

We keep her in a insulated quonset hut that rarely gets below 20 degrees inside.

Hope this info is helpful to someone.

Thanks.
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pictures: http://s277.photobucket.com/albums/kk80/DiverDennisL/ENGINE MAINT
 
I would not use 50/50 pink, but it's not my engine so do what you want.
 
I didn't think "pink" was made to be diluted. Should be used full strength. What's the freeze protection on 50/50?
 
If you dilute the pink which is rated to -50 burst protection full strength you will have a problem if the temps go down to much less than 25 degrees...if you are going to use AF....do it right...use -100 full strength...it will stay liquid down to -35 F or so and if any water does not drain it will be able to keep it from freezing...I use -100 in my I/O and never had a problem even down to zero degrees F here....in my opinion the -50 doesn't cut it for engines...
 
quote:
Originally posted by LouC

If you dilute the pink which is rated to -50 burst protection full strength you will have a problem if the temps go down to much less than 25 degrees...if you are going to use AF....do it right...use -100 full strength...it will stay liquid down to -35 F or so and if any water does not drain it will be able to keep it from freezing...I use -100 in my I/O and never had a problem even down to zero degrees F here....in my opinion the -50 doesn't cut it for engines...

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Certainly better safe than sorry. Good luck.
 
Pink is just fine if not diluted unless you are in an area that routinely see the temps fall in the -20 degrees for days. In PA we seldom see temps lower than 10* and that is just overnight. Michigan is a little colder. Pink will start to freeze well above -50 but will not freeze to a solid until it approaches -50.
It is impossible to get all the water out of the engine. At -20 degreees pink anifreeze may be pushing things. Pink is not made to dilute. With residual water left in the engine, the protection is not going be -50.
I think the OP would be safe if the pink antifreeze was used full strength. If it were diluted 50/50, it may be a different story come spring.
 
Another thing I would add: When you remove the block drain plugs, you have to open up the holes to remove any shale and allow complete drainage. If you don't , you are probably leaving more water than you want in the block. I don't replace the plugs until i have poured anti freeze into the block and see it coming out the drain holes.
 
that's how I've been doing it for years...back when I started winterizing boats I tested the three different Afs in the freezer...at zero...both the -50 and -60 start to get hard but do not expand enough to break anything...but that's if there is no raw water left...which is almost always not true...the question is how much...anyway the more expensive -100 stays completly liquid and that gives me a better feeling for the long winter ahead....
 
You can't count on purple or pink (propylene glycol) to mix in the block etc as it doesn't mix with water as readily as green (ethylene glycol). You could still have pockets of pure water.
 
Maybe you have seen why now. I use ethylene glycol 2 gallions stright and 3 gallons mixed with 1 gal. of water, for each of my 454's. Spending 40 extra bucks is a whole lot better than $8000.00 for a new engine. But like I said it's your engine/engines, I'll do mine my way.
 
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